Lej

Lej

Active Member
Hi all,


I have a 200 TDI defender which has been sat for a few weeks on my driveway. I jumped in to move the old girl and it wouldn't let me push into gear... I can feel resistance when I push the pedal down, but nothing happens, slight change in noise from the thrust bearing, but physically won't allow me to push a gear. I can just about manipulate it enough to try reverse but it grinds.

It's strange because the clutch has always been strong, I've never had an issue with it. Could I be looking at slave/master? or am I safe to try and bleed/new fluid?

Thanks all!
 
lynall said:
Take the master cap off and look at the colour of the fluid, bet it is black.
If they are the fault, change slave and master together.
Click to expand...
Hi Lynall,


If the fluid is black, would that mean replace the fluid or swap out slave+ master?

Thanks Lynall,
 
Lynall means the seals in either the slave or master have broken down and are contaminating the fluid with rubber. Change both, but you might as well change the contaminated fluid while you're on.
 
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Al2O3 said:
Lynall means the seals in either the slave or master have broken down and are contaminating the fluid with rubber. Change both, but you might as well change the contaminated fluid while you're on.
Click to expand...
Gotcha, thank you both!
 
Lej said:
Hi Lynall,


If the fluid is black, would that mean replace the fluid or swap out slave+ master?

Thanks Lynall,
Click to expand...
Swap them mate it means the seals are breaking down inside the master or the slave
It is easier to take the clutch pedal box completely off the bulkhead and change the cylinder on the bench as the bottom knot is a grade A arsehole to get access to
Also remember when you fit the slave cylinder to fit the nipple at the top do not fit it at the bottom
 
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Hi guys,

I have taken everything apart ready for a new slave and master cylinder.

The top fluid was indeed black, but I think my problem was a little more than just that.

When I took off the slave cylinder, I pulled the slave clear out, but the pin inside came out with it.

Thankfully out of curiosity, I quickly realised that it must connect on the other end rather than just sitting in a recess... And sure enough it does.

The clip that holds the piece in has bust off. I have found replacements online, but it looks like an impossible job to get back in...

Any suggestions? 😞
 

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Iirc the clip doe snot matter once it is all together as there is not any free play to speak of to allow the rod to escape.
It must be possible as I have changed my slave at least twice, and the master at least three times in 12 odd years.
 
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Lej said:
When I took off the slave cylinder, I pulled the slave clear out, but the pin inside came out with it.

Thankfully out of curiosity, I quickly realised that it must connect on the other end rather than just sitting in a recess... And sure enough it does.

The clip that holds the piece in has bust off. I have found replacements online, but it looks like an impossible job to get back in...

Any suggestions? 😞
Click to expand...

The official way, unfortunately, is to split the box to allow access to the internals to replace it. If you do this also put a couple of cable ties around the plastic clip so it does not happen next time.

It is however possible to get it back into position and clipped though the slave cylinder hole with some long needle nose pilers, lots and lots of fiddling and swearing. Just be very careful not to drop the rod into the bell housing as then you will need to split the box. Also when refitting make sure you lube the rod with some rubber grease so next time you need to take it off it does not stick to the rod and bring it out with the slave again.
 
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Thanks guys, appreciate the help!


I managed to get it all back in and sorted, you were correct Dag, lots of swearing but fortunately no splitting of said box! in the end I put some masking tape over the shaft so that the plastic clip couldn't move back up the shaft, then I put a 10mm deep socket over it once aligned and pushed it in, after a bit of fiddling it went in easy.

I have taken the landy for a spin since, I reverse bled the system to make sure I had no trapped air. The pedal feels stiff, but not too stiff- like you would expect from a defender but it doesn't seem to be engaging until it's right at the end of pushing down.

I have adjusted the rod on the master as far back as I'd like to go, but the bite point feels too low. I'm not entirely sure what's going on, please note, I did a complete refurbishment of the box pedal, everything greased up, new spring, etc.

Any suggestions?
 

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Might be the release arm beginning to punch through the pivot point?
Don’t over adjust the master or you will end up with a clutch that will not release as it cannot fully allow fluid to flow back from the salve.
 
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Lej said:
Thanks guys, appreciate the help!


I managed to get it all back in and sorted, you were correct Dag, lots of swearing but fortunately no splitting of said box! in the end I put some masking tape over the shaft so that the plastic clip couldn't move back up the shaft, then I put a 10mm deep socket over it once aligned and pushed it in, after a bit of fiddling it went in easy.

I have taken the landy for a spin since, I reverse bled the system to make sure I had no trapped air. The pedal feels stiff, but not too stiff- like you would expect from a defender but it doesn't seem to be engaging until it's right at the end of pushing down.

I have adjusted the rod on the master as far back as I'd like to go, but the bite point feels too low. I'm not entirely sure what's going on, please note, I did a complete refurbishment of the box pedal, everything greased up, new spring, etc.

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Sounds like you've done a good job so far. Don't quote me on these figures until we've checked a manual, but the bottom of the clutch pedal has to be set at 5.5" away from the floor and there needs to be a 1mm gap at the end of the master cylinder rod for it to be set properly. Or pretty close to those figures!
 
Even with a back bleed you may still have air in it, so a burp of the nipple with the pedal down might help.
Defo need a knatts cock free play in the mcyl pushrod.
 
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Hi guys, just reporting back on this- just in case somebody else runs into similar problems and finds this thread.

Everything logically should have meant the clutch was working fine after carrying out all the above jobs... But it didn't... After resetting the clutch, bleeding it and all the fun stuff inbetween I still had a clutch that was barely functioning even though i had pressure in the pedal. Next morning, same thing, wouldn't go into gear, just grinds.

So, I looked over the thread again and stopped at steve2286w's response about saying it was stuck in gear... I randomly decided (probably not a brilliant idea in hindsight) to turn the landy off and stick it in 1'st gear, then I started the engine to make it jump forwards, I did this two or 3 times, I heard a creak and then all of a sudden, full clutch, running absolutely superb.

I can only assume that something was indeed stuck, or partially moving- from memory it was the wettest winter we've had in a very long time before I parked it up.

Anyway- if anyone can shed some light on this- it may help the next person!

Thank you all so much for your help- it's been greatly appreciated as always!
 
What you experienced was a stuck clutch plate. Corrosion results in clutch drive plate sticking to the engine flywheel. Some times starting in gear with your foot on the pedal makes it let go. Other times one has to drive it with foot still on clutch to load the plate and make it let go being ready to switch off if you need to stop.
Making some use of your truck now will help clean up corrosion on plate/flywheel.
 
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Well done on fixing the stuck clutch, need to keep it moving frequently from now on , however if it gets stuck again have a look at this thread , I thought it so good I saved it on me tablet

www.landyzone.co.uk

Releasing a stuck clutch.

If you have left your landy sitting on the driveway for any amount of time with out moving her then you may get the Stuck Clutch problem. This is when you press the peddle down and get a grinding noise when you try and select a gear. The problem is that your clutch plate has stuck to the drive...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
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