DIFFLOCK66

DIFFLOCK66

Well-Known Member
After setting of from stationary, more or less on full lock to negotiate a small T-junction, I got bong, bong, bong and the ABS & TC amber lights... what! WHAT? WHAT? After an ignition reset (turn engine off, wait, turn it back on) they went away. All systems A-Ok ('cause I tested 'em afterwards! ;) )

So why not the HDC? When I get around to plugging Storm's little electronic brain into some diagnostics I guess I'll find out.
 
I've been getting exactly the same thing for the past month on and off, took it to the garage, no faults showing, they reckon it's a sensor on the way out, but not quite broke yet.
 
i saw that not once, it could be something odd too, if both of you have facelift D2s then forget about that but if not it could be a problem on the diff lock switch circuit cos on pre-facelift models when diff lock is engaged the ABS and TC only will come on as normal behaviour, if any of you have diff-lock engage it and see if the red warning comes on or not...

second option is that it's an ECU missbehaviour cos even a intermittent fault once occured it must be stored in the ECU memory as intermittent or hystorical

i'll try to answer to both of you accoding to each's modell... it would be good to be the same specs though

off course i presume that the HDC light works on self check after ignition for both of you does it?
 
My D2 is 2001 XS TD5. The diff lock is in the xfer box but I have to engage it manually with a spanner ;) no lever fitted on my year of manufacture, just Hi & lo ratio. No, there's no diff lock light on the dash, but I'm guessing that the switch might have been disconnected - I've read that TC and ABS are disengaged when selecting difflock, but I still had ABS when I got the 3 amigos whilst out laning (I posted a 3 amigos thread somewhere in here).

Amber HDC light works on self test.

HDC itself works fine too. I tested all 3 functions (ABS, TC & HDC) after the lights had reset.

When I get around to plugging in a diagnostic (I don't own one yet), I'll see what faults are stored and let you know.
 
so @rob8647 imo on your's the ECU is playing up(though you didnt confirm the HDC self test)

@DIFFLOCK66 for you the diff-lock circuit issue is still present(fordoomed nickname:D)... the ABS and TC are not disabled with locked diff only inhibited(in the reduced performance way) and the ABS and TC lights are on for pre-facelift modells...together with the diff-lock warning that's why i asked about it, it's one of the possibilities cos those two lamps alone are out of normality anyway
RAVE- BRAKES said:
l Vehicles up to 03 model year – At speeds between 0 and 62.5 mph (0 and 100 km/h), ETC also uses brake
intervention in axle pairs to maintain even torque distribution between the front and rear axles. In effect, this mode
of operation replaces the centre differential lock of the transfer box which, although still incorporated, is non
operational under normal driving conditions.
+TRANSFER BOX - LT230SE, DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION, Description. If the centre differential
lock is in the locked condition, the SLABS ECU illuminates the ABS and ETC warning lamps and inhibits the ETC
function (the ABS, EBD and HDC functions are retained, but at degraded performance levels).
Click to expand...
 
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I have noticed when shifting out of locked diff that the light sometimes does not go out until you have driven it a while, provoking wheel spin seems to put it out quicker.

Could this be related to their issues?

Just an idea.
 
MJI said:
I have noticed when shifting out of locked diff that the light sometimes does not go out until you have driven it a while, provoking wheel spin seems to put it out quicker.

Could this be related to their issues?

Just an idea.
Click to expand...

That's normal. The light doesn't extinguish until any wind-up is gone, even after the lock is disengaged. Which explains the wheel spin solution. Reversing a bit does the same thing.
 
srtgray said:
That's normal. The light doesn't extinguish until any wind-up is gone, even after the lock is disengaged. Which explains the wheel spin solution. Reversing a bit does the same thing.
Click to expand...

Thanks that is interesting
 
Had 3 amigos turn up the other day.

Examined the hubs and the nearside rear had developed a wobble. When I removed the old hub you could feel sideways play too.

Upon accessing the faults and clearing them via nanocom, the stored fault reported that the front nearside sensor output was too low, and had happened 16 times!

So..... do I just obtain a new ABS sensor wire seeing as the bearings themselves are fine?

Is there something special about the nearside front which possibly gets triggered by other things?
 
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