alex8882
Well-Known Member
i'm runing +2 inch lift on my 300. shocks anhd springs only. i'm running on 235/70/r16 insa's anhd all is fine wide angle props and cranked trailed arms aren't really needed at this height althou any higher anhd yes you may need them. Down side is mine now looks like a shopping trolley with standard size wheels
Jongould
New Member
Oh theres some handbags flying round in this thread... but to the OP's question...
A 2" lift is ideal as a half way house for off roading and using on road. There are many parts you can get, most you dont have to have but they make a difference...
2" springs - 2" extra height
2" shocks - compemsates for the extra spring length and brings your drop to standard
The above will basically lift the vehicle but provide no 'extra' off road ability
2" dropped shock mounts - allows extra drop and increases articulation
2" bump stops - stops the axle throwing your oversize tyres into the arches
Cranked trailing arms - Takes the stress out the bushes and reduces wear, allows for a better ride and tighter feel to the rear
Cranked radius arms - cranked and castor corrected to give maximum axle articulation whilst addressing the problem of castor angle and bump steering.
Dislocation cones - needed if you are dropping the mounts, the springs wont relocate otherwise
Extended brake lines - allows for the extra travel, I personally would fit with any lift
Limiting straps - allows you to jack the vehicle up without your wheels staying on the ground
The prop on a 300TDi uses a rubber donut, these will handle the lift but be prepared to change it every few months. With a 2" lift you can do a 200TDi conversion to a double UJ prop using a flange kit (eBay, about £40) and the standard 200TDi prop.
I have done all that except the radius arms, I have been told by many that the correction can make it worse when you only have a 2" lift and they are more suited to a bigger lift. I personally have no issues with front tracking, drive or wear so I cant see me doing the swap anytime soon. The trailing arms do help keep things tight at the rear and the dropped shock mounts really help with articulation and off road capability although as standard LR's are pretty damn good anyway, guess it depends what you will be doing off road...
One last thing, if you do go for the extra articulation then you need to loose your roll bars, this makes a slightly wobbly drive, nothing you wont get use to though...
A 2" lift is ideal as a half way house for off roading and using on road. There are many parts you can get, most you dont have to have but they make a difference...
2" springs - 2" extra height
2" shocks - compemsates for the extra spring length and brings your drop to standard
The above will basically lift the vehicle but provide no 'extra' off road ability
2" dropped shock mounts - allows extra drop and increases articulation
2" bump stops - stops the axle throwing your oversize tyres into the arches
Cranked trailing arms - Takes the stress out the bushes and reduces wear, allows for a better ride and tighter feel to the rear
Cranked radius arms - cranked and castor corrected to give maximum axle articulation whilst addressing the problem of castor angle and bump steering.
Dislocation cones - needed if you are dropping the mounts, the springs wont relocate otherwise
Extended brake lines - allows for the extra travel, I personally would fit with any lift
Limiting straps - allows you to jack the vehicle up without your wheels staying on the ground
The prop on a 300TDi uses a rubber donut, these will handle the lift but be prepared to change it every few months. With a 2" lift you can do a 200TDi conversion to a double UJ prop using a flange kit (eBay, about £40) and the standard 200TDi prop.
I have done all that except the radius arms, I have been told by many that the correction can make it worse when you only have a 2" lift and they are more suited to a bigger lift. I personally have no issues with front tracking, drive or wear so I cant see me doing the swap anytime soon. The trailing arms do help keep things tight at the rear and the dropped shock mounts really help with articulation and off road capability although as standard LR's are pretty damn good anyway, guess it depends what you will be doing off road...
One last thing, if you do go for the extra articulation then you need to loose your roll bars, this makes a slightly wobbly drive, nothing you wont get use to though...
Jongould
New Member
the dropped mounts dont give any extra lift, they allow your suspension to drop further. +4" springs sound like to much to me, at the end of the day a suspension lift gives you no more ground clearance, the tyres do that, all you need lift for is to fit the tyres in and to articulate further...
wiltshire landyman
I’m back
is this the ops m8? seems strange that when ya join a forum your first post is to defend somebody:boink::confused2:
He's not but who cares... Can we get back on point again?
wiltshire landyman
I’m back
havent you been given the info on both freds?
wiltshire landyman
I’m back
the idea of allowing your suspension to drop further is to keep the tyre on the ground and not up in the air.
Not to my last question.
Wondering if I could use +4" shocks to provide the extra articulation rather than use dropped shock mounts?
wiltshire landyman
I’m back
you could but you will need different arms if you want to get maximum drop out of your suspension
I got two 18" arms but dunno how changing them will help? 
Hmmm just thinking that its prob as cheap to get the +4 procomps shocks instead of +2 with dropped mounts... and I'd have +4 shocks in case on the off chance I wanted to lift it even higher again...
Prob best to keep it simple for now and just stick with a basic +2" lift and add to it as I go along. just thinking aloud
Hmmm just thinking that its prob as cheap to get the +4 procomps shocks instead of +2 with dropped mounts... and I'd have +4 shocks in case on the off chance I wanted to lift it even higher again...
Prob best to keep it simple for now and just stick with a basic +2" lift and add to it as I go along. just thinking aloud
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Jongould
New Member
This is what I have ended up with:
Extreme 4x4 Ltd E2 KITS
&
Extreme 4x4 Ltd EVOLUTION KITS
That is everything you need for a decent setup, you dont need to have the evo kit fitted but that is basically the extras that you would want
Extreme 4x4 Ltd E2 KITS
&
Extreme 4x4 Ltd EVOLUTION KITS
That is everything you need for a decent setup, you dont need to have the evo kit fitted but that is basically the extras that you would want
OK.. Will be going for EDIT: Have bought shocks, springs and extended brake lines for for a while. I already have extended bump stops.
Will look into castor corrected radius arms @ £15 each front radius arms
Regarding brake lines...What's the difference with 3, 4, and 5pc here Discovery 1 | Goodridge Hoses | Performance I'm assuming as long I go by chassis number it makes no odds?
Will look into castor corrected radius arms @ £15 each front radius arms
Regarding brake lines...What's the difference with 3, 4, and 5pc here Discovery 1 | Goodridge Hoses | Performance I'm assuming as long I go by chassis number it makes no odds?
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I have read about double caron props, wide angle props and double UJoints... I don't know what the difference is or if they're the same. I know a TD5 has a double cardon but thats about it...so could you enlighten me.
Why do the rubber donuts wear out and how does a double UJ prop get around it?
Have found a rear prop off a 200TDi... what about the front prop?
and is the Flange kit a Diff flange kit like this: http://tinyurl.com/72pgnts
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Job done!!
Thanks for the advice and banter! She now has said 2" lift via pro comp shocks and bearmach springs with my DIY extended bump stops.
Will soon have braided +2" brake lines
Having only just put bigger tyres on it's lifted around 4" now (1 1/2" from tyres, 2" from shocks/springs and at least 1/2" compared to the soggy old springs) All of the old shocks and springs were knackered so she really is a different beast to drive now and it's nice being that high up
On to the next upgrade I guess! (once I have some cash!)
Thanks for the advice and banter! She now has said 2" lift via pro comp shocks and bearmach springs with my DIY extended bump stops.
Will soon have braided +2" brake lines
Having only just put bigger tyres on it's lifted around 4" now (1 1/2" from tyres, 2" from shocks/springs and at least 1/2" compared to the soggy old springs) All of the old shocks and springs were knackered so she really is a different beast to drive now and it's nice being that high up
On to the next upgrade I guess! (once I have some cash!)
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Sorry to ressurect an old thread, but I too am looking at lift options without taking it too far.
I read an article this morning that inferred on changing the springs only for 2" lift HD springs yet retaining the original shocks.
I'm guessing this is someone talking out their bum cheeks as I can see no sense in this what so ever.
I want to achieve greater articlulation more than anything and stand more chance of wheels being on the deck when the vehicle gets into all kinds of weird angles.
Thanks.
I read an article this morning that inferred on changing the springs only for 2" lift HD springs yet retaining the original shocks.
I'm guessing this is someone talking out their bum cheeks as I can see no sense in this what so ever.
I want to achieve greater articlulation more than anything and stand more chance of wheels being on the deck when the vehicle gets into all kinds of weird angles.
Thanks.
Was thinking of doing that short term http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/2-springs-standard-shocks-180677.html
For articulation you'll need the longer shocks.
OK so need to go the whole 9 yards with dis cones, extended brake lines and bump stops too hey?
Just on a side note, there's a guy locally selling the full setup used and offering to fit it at extra...when I asked how much to fit as I only have a parking spot at the back at my place...he said £30 an hour and it's a days work to fit it all. He taking the pee? I've done full suspension to coilover swaps, admittedly on VW's in a couple of hours...
I'll trial fit the new wheels tomorrow and see what the crack is before I get carried away with lifts...
Just on a side note, there's a guy locally selling the full setup used and offering to fit it at extra...when I asked how much to fit as I only have a parking spot at the back at my place...he said £30 an hour and it's a days work to fit it all. He taking the pee? I've done full suspension to coilover swaps, admittedly on VW's in a couple of hours...
I'll trial fit the new wheels tomorrow and see what the crack is before I get carried away with lifts...
