Sorry worked until ten, Cam chain has two black links which line up with two notches on the sprockets effectively just timing the camshafts on each head together, the actual timing is done on the front pulleys, cams and crank you will need timing pins, when turning any thing at this point you need to be extremely careful as the tdv6 is an interference engine any resistance stop, Have a look at my thread have pictures on there that may help I think I did cam and timing belt head work etc a would still suggest you remove the head, anything can do to help no worries
 
Forget to say thread is discovery 3 engine rebuild should be pics to help you along but there are lots of different subjects as we quite often wander off subject so have a search
 
tyregeezer said:
Forget to say thread is discovery 3 engine rebuild should be pics to help you along but there are lots of different subjects as we quite often wander off subject so have a search
Click to expand...
I found the thread however I'm struggling to find the retaining hole for the crank I have bought myself the locking kit for it however I can not for the life of me fund the hole to cock the crank I know its above the starter I mean the hole on the flywheel?
 
You need to remove the starter it's directly above usually has plastic bung, securing bolt for locking tool is one of the starter bolt holes remember one of the crank locking pins is manual the other auto
 
tyregeezer said:
You need to remove the starter it's directly above usually has plastic bung, securing bolt for locking tool is one of the starter bolt holes remember one of the crank locking pins is manual the other auto
Click to expand...
Yep starter removed although not completely out of the way pulled the bung out but cannot see a hole on the flywheel admittedly this is all done via a video call from one phone to the other as the engine is still in the car with body on. Has anyone got a picture of the hole I would seat the pin in I have both manual and auto. I'm guessing the auto is a the one with a step down manual is just the long pin one.
 
Auto is the one with the central pin and the lug with captured nut which bolts through starter hole can be a difficult to spot it's close to torque converter bolt
 

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barnzee92 said:
All timed up now but noticed when starting rebuild the fuel return has snapped one of the lugs. Does any have one laying about that they want to sell?
Click to expand...
Do you mean leak off pipe?
130 quid new, made me weep buying it!
I have the old one in my garage, I had to replace it as it would not stop weeping driver side front injector, I assume the plastic nipple was worn.


Always replace the little retaining clips, they are bugger for coming off, forceps are ideal for fitting/removing them.
 
Pic might help, I cannot visualise it.

Edit is that just the retaining bit, ie not fuel pipe itself just the maans to secure it? if so cable ties to the rescue.
 
lynall said:
Pic might help, I cannot visualise it.

Edit is that just the retaining bit, ie not fuel pipe itself just the maans to secure it? if so cable ties to the rescue.
Click to expand...
No the retaint bolt is fine it's the bit that goes into the pipe that snapped
 
Oh I see now I thought it was just a retaining clip I did not realise it was actually part of the pipework
 
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