The pipe I used was 12mm o.d. stainless. I tried 15mm copper domestic radiator pipe but it wouldn't push in. To be honest the 12mm was quite loose but clamped ok with jubilee's. 13mm or 14mm o.d. pipe would be better.

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I int got time to even fart let alone get to finish it, trying to get the disco prepped for mot at the mo.
 
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The ID of the rubber oil hoses on a disco 200tdi is 12 mm. When i did mine i cut the rubber hose and inserted an extra length of hose using brass connectors like these with jubilee clips securing, works a treat, pics below. The extra hose came from pirtek but you could probbly get it on fleabay as well.
 

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The ID of the rubber oil hoses on a disco 200tdi is 12 mm. When i did mine i cut the rubber hose and inserted an extra length of hose using brass connectors like these with jubilee clips securing, works a treat, pics below. The extra hose came from pirtek but you could probbly get it on fleabay as well.

Ah excellent, very neat indeed.

Think this is the way I'll go. On my last conversion, I got Pirtek to 'professionally' extend my existing pipes for £70. All looked well until I installed them and started the engine for the first time, when they immediately ****ed out oil :eek:

They did fix them for me, but your solution looks just as neat and a fraction of the cost.

Nice!
 
Might be a bit late as I see you have the intercooler pipes in, but I found that running the intercooler pipework high gave room to put a disco air filter and hose against the wing. Helpfully, the diameter of the 2.5na exhaust is the same as intercooler pipework, I used a bit with a 90degree bend to come up from the turbo outlet and into the intercooler. You do have to "clock" the turbo cold side for this, but it's easy peasy for a man of your obvious capabilities - just a bit of drilling and tapping. If you have a look for my post about "fiddly bits" there are photos. It's also covered in the Glencoyne site: https://www.glencoyne.co.uk/tdiguide.htm
 
Might be a bit late as I see you have the intercooler pipes in, but I found that running the intercooler pipework high gave room to put a disco air filter and hose against the wing. Helpfully, the diameter of the 2.5na exhaust is the same as intercooler pipework, I used a bit with a 90degree bend to come up from the turbo outlet and into the intercooler. You do have to "clock" the turbo cold side for this, but it's easy peasy for a man of your obvious capabilities - just a bit of drilling and tapping. If you have a look for my post about "fiddly bits" there are photos. It's also covered in the Glencoyne site: https://www.glencoyne.co.uk/tdiguide.htm

Nothing is set in stone yet.
I've got to get the bloody thing running and weld up all the rot that has appeared, first.:rolleyes:
 
Had a bit of time to look at it today.

Put a battery on it, turned the key- no dash lights, bugger.
Turned the key to start position- she turned over and I let the key go in surprise.
Turned it on again and she started!

Ran like a bag of spanners.

She eventually cleared, but would benefit from 10 year old doozil draining out and fresh stuff in.

Now for the fun of checking the electricity out and getting things working again.
 
Spray some duck oil or something on them rusty bits and especially that poor engine.

Did you flare the end of them stainless oil cooler pipes to stop the hoses slipping off?
 
Spray some duck oil or something on them rusty bits and especially that poor engine.

Did you flare the end of them stainless oil cooler pipes to stop the hoses slipping off?
Engine bay wants a damn good pressure wash to blow away corrosion first.

No, it's lowish pressure and I bet the rubber hose has welded itself to the pipe anyway.
 
Managed a few hours today.
New indicator stalk fitted and managed to get idiot lights working on the dash. It was corrosion to the flimsy PCB and bayonet fit lamps. All cleaned up and 2 new bulbs fitted. Got to trace oil light and why the instrument back lighting isn't working next- I suspect earth issue.

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I was just happy to have found the problem.
As for the dash back lighting- I may have the switch near the hazard switch turned off:oops:, l'll check later.


I had that on my 2.5nad to 200tdi conversion, traced to bad connections @ engine loom:rolleyes:

Rich.

Yep, I'll check that too. It's been 10 years since I worked on it, I can't remember what got connected up or not.
 
Dash back light issue was the switch not on, oil light issue was corrosion at the sender connection.

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I also have a working interior light, which is nice.

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I also have a working heater fan, but only on fast speed.

Does anyone have a picky of what holds the heater cable outer in place?

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Lastly, look what I found in the dash!

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Got a heater hose joiner, so finally filled her with water and run her up to temp. Left her idling with the odd rev up, for about 45mins or so- no leaks so far. Heater blows hot and temp gauge sits in the middle because I've swapped out the sensor for one that suits the 90 gauge.

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Heater cable clips fitted and windscreen wiper switch contacts cleaned up and now have working wipers.
I forgot to take any more pics.
 
Does anyone have a picky of what holds the heater cable outer in place?

20220915_113926-jpg.273989

cabletie on mine (single, obviously my Ninety TUL,FFW is a 'lightwieght not the civvy tractoro_O)

there should be a metal springclip but they've usually 'sprung' off as a sacrifice to the Floor God:rolleyes:

will hunt for a photo or link....

Rich.
 
cabletie on mine (single, obviously my Ninety TUL,FFW is a 'lightwieght not the civvy tractoro_O)

there should be a metal springclip but they've usually 'sprung' off as a sacrifice to the Floor God:rolleyes:

will hunt for a photo or link....

Rich.

I found what they were and ordered 4.
1 for each heater cable and 2 spares.
 

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