H

Hill Hunter

New Member
Morning All,
I know this topic has been covered to death but i have a 1997 Range Rover 2.5 Diesel, After a week or two of ownership the matrix heater seals failed and the engine over heated. She now pressurizes the coolant at coming down from high revs. So i am looking to change the cylinder head.

Having never worked on range rovers before does anybody have any tips or guides ( I have the RAVE). Or if anybody is really keen fancy doing it ?

Cheers
Jon
 
Easy job if you know what you are doing not easy at all if you don't. You will need several special tools.
 
Everything is in rave, but beware! there are some errors in head fitting procedure.
Do timing chains while head is removed.
Use only new dedicated bolts for head, crank flange and camshaft sprocket.
 
N2O said:
Everything is in rave, but beware! there are some errors in head fitting procedure.
Do timing chains while head is removed.
Use only new dedicated bolts for head, crank flange and camshaft sprocket.
Click to expand...

As above. Do the chains and tensioners as you have to take the head off to do them. I'm located in Northants near daventry and would be willing to lend the specialist tools if required as I don't intend to have any use for them in the near future!

Discussion with someone who's done the job will help you a lot i would say after having had a few issues while doing ours. It might be explained in the manuals and people on here can tell you all you like but there are a few things about the job which you'd get from talking it through with someone and not otherwise.

When are you looking to get he job done?

Richard
 
brianp38dse said:
One thing to note, Do not get the head skimmed.
Click to expand...

Had mine done, guy who did it has done several of these before with good results, but only very small amounts. TLR CarCom Engineering in daventry.

Regardless of whether you take the risk like me or not, definitely have the replacement very carefully assessed by someone who knows what they're on about.

Drop me a PM and I'll send you my number. Did this job over the winter so would be happy to pass on what I learned.

Rich
 
BMW recommend that the head is not skimmed. But a 5 or 6 thou clean is a lot different to a 40 thou warp correction. Perhaps it would be a good idea for someone to explain what the glaring problems with RAVE are so that others are aware.
 
N2O said:
Everything is in rave, but beware! there are some errors in head fitting procedure.
Do timing chains while head is removed.
Use only new dedicated bolts for head, crank flange and camshaft sprocket.
Click to expand...

What are they? All you should need is torque settings and timing info.
 
I don't remember now, but something in something in sequence was in wrong order. May be confusing for someone with not much mechanical knowledge.
 
N2O said:
I don't remember now, but something in something in sequence was in wrong order. May be confusing for someone with not much mechanical knowledge.
Click to expand...

Changing the head on these and doing the chains which is a good idea if you have the head off. Is not a job for someone with not much mechanical knowledge.
 
Most of mechanics have no idea how to do it properly, hence why there are "lifted" heads soon after.
 
Right then, after months of waiting i have finally got round to buying a new head. Next question on the list: where can i get bolts for the crank flange and camshaft sprocket ?

Cheers in advance. Jon
 
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