R

Rodeo Joe

Well-Known Member
I have now got the engine and transmission mounted on the chassis of the 109 ex mil and thought I'd better fire it up before I go any further.
Its got a 2.5 n/a in it and as the title says it rough at idle but at revs its smokey but runs better with a splutter now and then. At idle it puts out a regular puff of white smoke. Before I get too depressed (was told the engine was a brilliant runner when I bought it:rolleyes:), would the first port of call be to check the injectors?
Got a breaker engine in the corner of the shed if I were to swap the injectors one at a time I should be able to tell if its one of them.
I should probably say that I'm trying to get this together with anything thats in the shed at the moment given the state of the world at the moment!
Any ideas?
 
The original 2.5nad in my 110 did that, I tried everything before buying a compression tester which showed very low on number 4. Pulled the head hopeing to find a dodgy valve or something and it turned out to be a bent Conrod.
That too was "a good runner mate, just accident damaged".
The rod also took out a lump at the bottom of the blocks bore. Think I've still got the rod and piston somewhere.
200tdi now.
 
When you hold the revs mid range it runs smooth as you like so thinking injectors before I tear it to bits.Running out of options tbh so its going to stay where it is......got a knackered petrol and a 2.5 fx4 engine that refuses to fire in the shed so this is the last option I've got, at least it goes even if it does smoke like a brick kiln.
 
Not anymore I'm under isolation due to a few underlying health issues so staying put for a while hence trying to deal with what I've got laying about.
Might have somebody close though that might drop one round(mind you he's been promising that for the last 6 months lol.)
 
My first thought was a dodgy injector and I still think it is the most likely culprit but a compression test would be a good idea as well. You can buy a cheap test kit on Amazon for less money than a diesel specialist would charge you to do the job.
 
Well swapped the injectors about and still smokes at idle but runs fine otherwise, its not to say the spare injectors I have are any good either though.
Got some exchange ones from Paddocks a couple of years ago not expensive at all but had a message from them to say they're closed for a while.
Think I'll carry on with the rebuild and hope new injectors down the line will sort it out.
Now got to try and stop the bloody oil leak from the back of the sump where it meets the flywheel housing...............
 
I always (in order of easiness)
Check valve clearances.............no point looking at owt else if they are out.
Have a look at the pump and see how far advanced it is. Very often on full turn.
Give the pump a 1mm turn clockwise to see if it improves if any adjustment left.
Take out the injectors and clean see if that helps.
Check compression (not so easy for me as I aint got a tester).
Replace timing chain (pain in the rear).
Burn it and claim on the insurance.
 
Flossie said:
No chain tis belt.
Click to expand...
Yes and I changed that . Don't think its out by a tooth either as it starts easily even without heat which is pretty rare for these.....my other one won't start unless its had 2 goes on the heater first.
I was wondering about adjusting the pump timing but I've got some new injectors coming today so I'll change them first, the original ones didn't fill me with confidence anyway.
The other thing I was wondering about is the head gasket but oil and water are clean (well uncontaminated might be a better phrase!)
 
Flossie said:
The original 2.5nad in my 110 did that, I tried everything before buying a compression tester which showed very low on number 4. Pulled the head hopeing to find a dodgy valve or something and it turned out to be a bent Conrod.
That too was "a good runner mate, just accident damaged".
The rod also took out a lump at the bottom of the blocks bore. Think I've still got the rod and piston somewhere.
200tdi now.
Click to expand...
I'm thinking I will get a compression tester and check it out, would something like this be ok?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...a=1&pg=2334524&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042
 
Rodeo Joe said:
I'm thinking I will get a compression tester and check it out, would something like this be ok?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Diesel-Compression-Tester-Injector-Glow-plug-Fuel-Cylinder-Pressure/362534776453?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160811114145&meid=d3ebb3b31ae3428d961d3ea532dd9f07&pid=100667&rk=1&rkt=8&mehot=none&sd=362534776453&itm=362534776453&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2334524&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042
Click to expand...
I have something very like that, it will be fine for occasional use. Just make sure there is an adaptor that will fit your engine. Compare prices before you commit, you will find that prices vary for the same kit if you take the time to look.
 
It won’t take much to pull the push rods and check them for straightness. Have you checked the timing of the fuel pump itself too using the timing kit? It sounds a frustrating issue which could be anything, might even just need a good running in with some decent fuel if it’s been sat around a while.
 
Huddy84 said:
It won’t take much to pull the push rods and check them for straightness. Have you checked the timing of the fuel pump itself too using the timing kit? It sounds a frustrating issue which could be anything, might even just need a good running in with some decent fuel if it’s been sat around a while.
Click to expand...
I 've got new injectors fitted now but waiting for a rear oil seal before I put the flywheel cover back on so I can test run it.
Got a horrible feeling its been off roaded and got hydro-locked, maybe bent a con rod hence the comp. test.
After that its off with the head if no joy.
 
Ok then, new injectors still smokes.
New toy arrived today so did a comp test and got:
1 - 460
2 - 465
3 - 465
4 - 495
Whats this tell me, is is tappets? Still don't know if anythings bent.
Any ideas?
 
Those readings are really good and fairly even.
Fuel system/timing issues is all there is left really. Are the injectors new or just different ones?
Double check timing.
Then pump is suspect or old/contaminated fuel.
 
Just had another go at it, had a lot of trouble getting injector 2 to stop weeping ended up putting 2 small copper washers in before the metal crush washer that seemed to stop it for now.
Its had a good time to warm up in the shed and after turning it off to mess about with the injector when I restarted it the smoke seemed to clear a bit so hopefully a good blast will clear the tubes. Still a bit smokey at idle but I can live with that.
 
Flossie said:
Those readings are really good and fairly even.
Fuel system/timing issues is all there is left really. Are the injectors new or just different ones?
Double check timing.
Then pump is suspect or old/contaminated fuel.
Click to expand...
Yes I thought they looked pretty good, as I said before it will start without heat so hoping once the smoke clears it might be ok after all.
 
I'd be happy with those readings. By all means check the tappet gaps but don't expect it to make any difference to the comp readings. I think it might just need a good blast up the road, maybe a dose of injector cleaner; provided of course that you are satisfied that pump timing etc is right.
Edit: I should qualify: If the tappets are too tight and holding open a valve it would affect compression readings.
 
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