google diesel injection specialist norfolk, theres bound to be a few, or you could post it to my brother in law in lincs
 
I would make sure the LP pump is now ok, check all the lines for possible air leaks as you can blead it only to get air back in which is a pain to work out. One way it to put some clear fuel line in before the IP and see if there are bubbles. Bleed the inlet union, the body then the governor (if it has one with a bleed) then loosen two injector unions and crank. Is possible there is air in but in my expreince if you bleed it propoerly it will either work or more air is getting back in from somewhere. The pumps are quite simple and you can take them apart with care. Google "CAV pump strip / reseal" or something like that and you'll get some vidoes. I think the idea above about stuck pump pistons could be right as it could mean they are not filling and pumping enough. If it is that I would try letting it run for a while at idle and see it it frees up.
 

Attachments

  • CAV Workshop Manual fuel-injection-pump.pdf
    3.9 MB · Views: 397
Thanks for that I'll have a read tonight. I don't like the idea of stripping the pump but as I have 2 I might have a look!
Got a brand spanking new LP to put on tomorrow along with some new pipes and fittings if that shows no improvement then I will try the other pump I have on the taxi engine.
The pump is the same but the timing cover is different.
Had a look at it today and the timing is set to the 'F' mark and not the dot on the pump pulley any idea why that would be?
Thanks
 
My expertise is limited to taking apart and putting back the same, I stay away from adjustments. The timing / set up is may be in the engine manual, the pump overhaul is not engine specific. The pumps are in several sections so you can look at each as a unit - the inlet filter and lp (vane) pump on the end, the hp metering pump - the round block with the 4 outlet unions on it, the governor and throttle connection and the advance retard which can be bob-weights or on mine is a hydraulic piston. You probably don't need to strip each bit, just check the bits move. The pump manual is acuallty quite short, its all repeated for each variation so the trick is identifying your pump and only reading that.
 
Rodeo Joe said:
Thanks for that I'll have a read tonight. I don't like the idea of stripping the pump but as I have 2 I might have a look!
Got a brand spanking new LP to put on tomorrow along with some new pipes and fittings if that shows no improvement then I will try the other pump I have on the taxi engine.
The pump is the same but the timing cover is different.
Had a look at it today and the timing is set to the 'F' mark and not the dot on the pump pulley any idea why that would be?
Thanks
Click to expand...
lr 2.5 engine was timed on the dot because of differences with timing cover freight rovers were timed to the f, im not positive but i think pump internal timing is different too
 
jamesmartin said:
lr 2.5 engine was timed on the dot because of differences with timing cover freight rovers were timed to the f, im not positive but i think pump internal timing is different too
Click to expand...
.
Thanks, thats not good news though I was hoping to swap it straight over does the difference in timing marks mean thats probably not possible?
I'm starting to think I shall have to bite the bullet and put the 300tdi into it (ex turbo) even though its a lot of work at least I know the engine is a good one.
Got nothing to lose by swapping the pumps anyway I suppose.
 
I think pumps are very engine specific. The pump number is the timing, advance, max flow etc and is set to the engine type and size. My understading is to only do like for like swaps. I suspect its a simple issue once you find it. This shows how they work:
 

Attachments

  • lucas-cav-dpa-injection-pump-instruction-book.pdf
    3.7 MB · Views: 413
rob1miles said:
My understading is to only do like for like swaps. I suspect its a simple issue once you find it. This shows how they work:
Click to expand...
.

Yes I think the engine unit is the same but the timing cover is the only difference. The time for talk is over just got to plough into now , s*** or bust as they say:)
 
The 2.5 will have a DPS pump fitted not a DPA , 14J pump should work ok but has it been out of use a long time and specifically where internals left dry?
As it could be no better than your current one.
 
YES!!!! Got it fired up.
When I had a look at the spare engine the IP had a spring plunger type thing inside the fuel inlet this was missing from my engine so I replaced it and hey presto sounds like an engine now.......:D.
Not the end of the road but feels like making progress now.
 
That makes sense, I think that's the non-return valve for the vane pump. Very hard to spot something that's not there!
 
took it for a spin this morning, engine runs great and ticks over nicely, it does kick out quite a bit of black smoke under load, wondering if the fuel adjust bolt on the engine side of the pump would turn down the amount of diesel getting burnt?
 
Rodeo Joe said:
took it for a spin this morning, engine runs great and ticks over nicely, it does kick out quite a bit of black smoke under load, wondering if the fuel adjust bolt on the engine side of the pump would turn down the amount of diesel getting burnt?
Click to expand...

Proceed with caution. A bit of black smoke under full load is quite normal for an old indirect injection engine.
Slight over fuel is better than slight under fuel, and it is quite possible that the over fuel is caused by worn injectors letting too much fuel in, rather than the pump adjustment.
 
Thats quite right but if the injectors are letting in too much fuel then turning it down a bit on the pump should help shouldn't it?
 
Rodeo Joe said:
Thats quite right but if the injectors are letting in too much fuel then turning it down a bit on the pump should help shouldn't it?
Click to expand...

It would be better to get the sprayers serviced. If you turn the pump down, eventually an injector will blow a nozzle, or otherwise fail, then they will need to be serviced and reset to the correct pressures. And then you will be under fuelling because you have turned the pump down.

Bodgeing the job will usually lead to more problems further down the line. Doing it properly the reverse.
 
Put some Millers injector cleaner in your tank and give it a good run out, then see what it is like before doing any more to it.
 
Blackburn said:
Put some Millers injector cleaner in your tank and give it a good run out, then see what it is like before doing any more to it.
Click to expand...

That is a good suggestion too. Eco max might be even better, lubricate the pump and clean the injectors and pump internals at the same time.
 
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