Not content with failing to make it to the MoT today after having to do battle with the heater pipe O rings...twice (don't bother trying anything other than the correct size O ring) I decided that while I had the under dash in pieces that I might as well install my 'Ronbox'

What initially looked like it was going to be a simple job has rapidly gone south.

I've been trying to install the control wires near the ECU as recommended in the installation instructions, but have run into a snag, I can't identify the correct 'Black' or 'Brown' wire from pin 14 on the ECU connector, I found two small (I'm asuming that the other one is pin 5 for the Injector Needle Lift Sensor) and three large gauge black wires coming out from the connector block. The instructions 'simply' tell you to follow the wire from the correct pin...slightly tricky when the connector is completely encased in its housing with seemingly no way of getting inside.

To cap it all there is a note after the 'simply' follow the wire statement that says in bold red type: 'Do Not Check For Continuity'. Anyone have any pointers here and know why you shouldn't do a continuity check with the battery disconnected and the ECU unplugged? As far as I can tell all the 'violet' (as they call it, but actually Purple, pin 39) and black (pin ) wires do is go to the fuel pump Fuel Quantity Feed Back Sensor for the 'Ronbox' to rescale the signal and throw in more fuel based on the signal from the Map Sensor. In my head as long as I unplug the connectors at the Pump I'm very unlikely to damage anything using my DVM to do a continuity check from the pin to the two samller gauge black wires. That is as long as the three heavier gauge wires are for something else...

Thoughts?

Why not ask Ron, he's very helpful. PM me if you don’t have his email.

I think @brianp38dse might have done this in the past.

Mine was a plug and play box that just went in between the injection pump and the engine wiring at the pump and a tee piece on the map pipe so cant help, i thought all the all ones other than a remap chip just plugged in
sounds like a right faff

It's plug and play at the MAP sensor which is the easy one anyway. I could have wired it at the pump by splicing in the two wire there, but they recommend doing it at the ecu by 'simply' accessing the wiring at the back on the connector, a connector that looks to be sealed

Slooby said:

It's plug and play at the MAP sensor which is the easy one anyway. I could have wired it at the pump by splicing in the two wire there, but they recommend doing it at the ecu by 'simply' accessing the wiring at the back on the connector, a connector that looks to be sealed

Click to expand...

All the ones I have seen plugged in, the connector at the FIP was unplugged, the power box plugged in to the FIP and then the FIP cable plugged into the power box. Yours sounds like a cheapo with no connectors.

All the componentry is premium stuff (I suspect from RS) as there are pukka TYCO AMP connectors for the MAP interrupt and its own flying leads, 3m adhesive lined heatshrink etc etc. They (Synergy/Ron) suggest various alternate ways to tap into the injector pump feed, but state a preference to tap in at the ecu to ensure a clean signal.

Thanks to Alan (Quixote) I emailed Tuning Diesels and Ron got back to me with the slide show showing how to extract the ECU connector from its cover (I was being to hesitant and assumed that the seal was bonded to the connector and housing, its not) to get to the pins. He also confirmed that a continuity check on the same wire is fine, just not to a main earth.

Sorted, and seems to at least have power seeing as the dash mounted 'sport' button, there to give an off boost performance increase, illuminates when pressed