lloyd123 said:
ok thanks guys have taken all this on bored i have had a look at fuse box dosent smell the best and seems hot so going to change it and see how we get on is the fuse box hard to change am good with spaners not so much wirering ha ha ha
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Before you start, disconnect the battery. The fuse box unplugs, look for burnt contacts on the underside as well as where the relays plug in. There are at least 2 different fuse box versions, make sure you get the correct one if you plan to replace it.
 
Datatek said:
Before you start, disconnect the battery. The fuse box unplugs, look for burnt contacts on the underside as well as where the relays plug in. There are at least 2 different fuse box versions, make sure you get the correct one if you plan to replace it.
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In the 99 on fuse box there is an extra diode and circuit so that fuel pump runs when engine is being cranked. The pump fuse is uprated from 10 amps to 20 amps.I know of no other mods that would not make it an up grade. Maybe others do.
 
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You'll only REALLY know the state of your fusebox after dismantling it and seperating the 2 layers of circuit board... Most of the scorching damage occurs between the layers.

Unfortunately, your 2nd hand fleabay one may be no better...
 
If your engine is starting running then stopping you have fuel control problem. It should start and go to fast idle. That is controlled by the ECU when the idle switch is engaged. Think you said nothing on diag i am amazed if there isn't. What diag suite did you use?
 
i had it on a snap on diagnostics and no fault came up it not running then dieing its like its trying to start just fireing for a split second i realy dont no what do do now am at my wits end with it
 
You need to get it on a RR specific diagnostics, I think... Standing by to be corrected, but I don't think a generic diagnostics would even talk to the vehicle, let alone read any faults...
 
Diesel P38's doesn't use the OBDII protocol - so a generic reader won't work - need dedicated Diesel P38 diag's (BBS Nano's, Faultmate, T4, Autologic et al)
 
lloyd123 said:
i had it on a snap on diagnostics and no fault came up it not running then dieing its like its trying to start just fireing for a split second i realy dont no what do do now am at my wits end with it
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If the problem occurs hot or cold, then it has to be fuel or fuel control, ignition relay, in tank pump, shut off solenoid, MAF etc. If it's cold only add glowplugs to the list.
 
had it on rr diag's no fault codes came up am gona try changing stop sel on the pump its the only thing i can think of now
 
lloyd123 said:
had it on rr diag's no fault codes came up am gona try changing stop sel on the pump its the only thing i can think of now
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Take it you mean seal. If it's not leaking what good is that going to do? A weeping seal is not causing what you have.
 
ye sorry stop solenoid is what i ment i have checked it but every time i have checked it its been fine and started 1st time so it had to check it not a big expense to change so worth ago i recon
 
i am getting fuel when i check but it always starts when i check its hard cos its an intermittent fault wich is makeing it hard for me
 
Where are you checking for fuel, at the FIP downstream of the filter, or on the input side of the filter? If the latter, a clogged filter may be the problem...
 
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