L

Lanttola

New Member
The car is -99 2.5 diesel with automatic gearbox.

The problem was that when I turned ignition on, the glow plug light and check engine light both stayed off. The starter spins ok, but it doesn't fire up.

Then I somehow got it into a state when it clicks once every second, engine control relay, glow time relay and possibly the solenoid in the injection pump all click in the same sequence.
When it does that the glow plug light also flashes same time.

We got the engine running when I took the cover off the yellow engine control relay and a mate pressed and hold the relay on when I turned the ignition on and then started. Also then the glow plug light and check engine light worked.
But once you let go of the relay it starts clicking.

This leaves me thinking that the immobilizer isn't on, but there is something odd in the relay feed. Where does it get it's power and ground?
Opel Omega 2.5TD with the same engine is very simple, the same relay gets constant +12v from battery, impulse 12v from the ignition and ground goes straight to car body.
Does some of those wires come thru BeCM in the Range Rover?

Is there a wiring diagram available somewhere?

The relay I'm talking about is the center one in the top row.

p38rangerover-fusebox.jpg
 
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hi , try swapping the said relay with another " like for like yellow " same numbers in black printed on them !!! swap over and see if its ok and starts etc then get one off internet ,, see what each one does on underneath of fuse box lid then you can swap it for one that's not imperative ,!!!! ok cheers mozz :):)
 
You'll need the RAVE mauals...

There is a link to them in Wammers 'EAS Compressor' How To in the How To section at the top of the Range Rover forum.
 
Saint.V8 said:
You'll need the RAVE mauals...

There is a link to them in Wammers 'EAS Compressor' How To in the How To section at the top of the Range Rover forum.
Click to expand...

that'll be too easy for him sainty !!!!!!!!!!!!:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: and here's me thinking he came on here asking for help ????????????????? ah well .
 
12.6V, perhaps now above that since a C-TEK charger has been connected many hours.

mozz smith, I didn't quite understand. What I meant to say was that it would have been very easy fix. It was a good tip and I would be very happy if that did the trick, but unfortunately it didn't.
.
I left my laptop downloading that file. It was very slow, so I'll study it tomorrow
 
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Lanttola said:
12.6V, perhaps now above that since a C-TEK charger has been connected many hours.

mozz smith, I didn't quite understand. What I meant to say was that it was a good tip and I would be very happy of that did the trick, but unfortunately it didn't.

I left my laptop downloading that file. It was very slow, so I'll study it tomorrow
Click to expand...
Do check the fuse box and connections to it and the battery, also check that the carpet in the drivers footwell is dry.
 
Lanttola said:
12.6V, perhaps now above that since a C-TEK charger has been connected many hours.

mozz smith, I didn't quite understand. What I meant to say was that it was a good tip and I would be very happy of that did the trick, but unfortunately it didn't.

I left my laptop downloading that file. It was very slow, so I'll study it tomorrow
Click to expand...

Highly likely the fuse box is knackered.
 
Lanttola said:
12.6V, perhaps now above that since a C-TEK charger has been connected many hours.

mozz smith, I didn't quite understand. What I meant to say was that it would have been very easy fix. It was a good tip and I would be very happy if that did the trick, but unfortunately it didn't.
.
I left my laptop downloading that file. It was very slow, so I'll study it tomorrow
Click to expand...

Even a battery showing 12.6 volts can be faulty try a different battery that is known to be good and has at least 800 cca even jumping the battery with a good one will not work sometimes if there is an internal short when under load
 
Battery has been tested, its not excellent, its a little over 80% so I need to get a new battery anyway. But it does work and it starts the car fine if only that one relay passes on the current.
So a new battery is coming, but I will be very amazed if it makes any difference.

The relay that is giving me a hard time is controlled by ground and the ground is now missing. Or not entirely missing but it isn't constant.

The big question now is the relay19 pin85, where is it supposed to go?
I thought it connects somewhere under the relay box but no.
 
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Lanttola said:
Battery has been tested, its not excellent, its a little over 80% so I need to get a new battery anyway. But it does work and it starts the car fine if only that one relay passes on the current.
So a new battery is coming, but I will be very amazed if it makes any difference.

The relay that is giving me a hard time is controlled by ground and the ground is now missing. Or not entirely missing but it isn't constant.

The big question now is the relay19 pin85, where is it supposed to go?
I thought it connects somewhere under the relay box but no.
Click to expand...

Have you looked at RAVE? Power from fuse 37 to relay 19 is grounded in BECM that also pulls relay 15 (ignition relay). When 19 is pulled also effect other relays and system components. Not going to type out a vivid description look at the diagrams in RAVE.
 
I tried to open RAVE but I have to admit I don't know how.
It says open up the file welcome.pdf, but then what?
All I get is the frame below.

20tqm9c.jpg


I did notice that relay 15 also clicks and it is connected to same wires.
I had an extra fuse box that came with the car so I measured that with a multimeter.

I think the next step is to butcher the fuse box and make sure everything is ok inside.
 
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Lanttola said:
I tried to open RAVE but I have to admit I don't know how.
It says open up the file welcome.pdf, but then what?
All I get is the frame below.

20tqm9c.jpg


I did notice that relay 15 also clicks and it is connected to same wires.
I had an extra fuse box that came with the car so I measured that with a multimeter.

I think the next step is to butcher the fuse box and make sure everything is ok inside.
Click to expand...

Click on the image it should open. You will then have to allow it to open next PDF file. Bit of a ball ache to use but usable never the less. Or try a download from here much easier to use version. http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals_Original.htm
 
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Is the carpet wet in the drivers footwell? Other than that, it still sounds like the fuse box to me.
 
Carpet was dry.
I did get the RAVE working now, turned out the files hadn't extracted correctly automatically.
I think it will be very helpful now and in the future.

Update with the fault: Relay19 pin2 should lead to white wire (pin8) in the violet connector under the fuse box but there is no connection at all.
Funny thing is both fuse boxes I have are alike, no connection there.

So off to dismantle the fuse box I go.
 
Turns out there is a diode between the relay and the connector under the fuse box, so that's why my multimeter didn't show a connection.
That didn't even show in the wiring diagram.

The other fuse box is still in the car, it does now work totally normal when i wired the relay with 10cm long wires between the relay and relay box, except the ground wire now goes straight from the relay to white wire under the relay box.

I'm getting more and more convinced the relay box is the one to blame.
 
Lanttola said:
Carpet was dry.
I did get the RAVE working now, turned out the files hadn't extracted correctly automatically.
I think it will be very helpful now and in the future.

Update with the fault: Relay19 pin2 should lead to white wire (pin8) in the violet connector under the fuse box but there is no connection at all.
Funny thing is both fuse boxes I have are alike, no connection there.

So off to dismantle the fuse box I go.
Click to expand...

What year is your car?
 
Problem solved, or atleast I think it is...

Someone has put a petrol fuse box in it! Even though there is "P38 diesel" written in it, it says P38 Petrol in the circuit board.

Should have tried the other fuse box, but that one definitely smelt burnt and the previous owner said it was broken so I thought wouldn't work.

Thanks for the help.

EDIT: If it still matters, the car is -98 model, but the fuse boxes have -96 and -95 stamps in them.
 
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Lanttola said:
Problem solved, or atleast I think it is...

Someone has put a petrol fuse box in it! Even though there is "P38 diesel" written in it, it says P38 Petrol in the circuit board.

Should have tried the other fuse box, but that one definitely smelt burnt and the previous owner said it was broken so I thought wouldn't work.

Thanks for the help.

EDIT: If it still matters, the car is -98 model, but the fuse boxes have -96 and -95 stamps in them.
Click to expand...

Should have a part number on it AMR3376 AMR6406 or AMR6477. Last one best. MUST be one of those 94 to 98 diesel.
 
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