Some of the replies have mentioned air getting into the system - my thinking would be the opposite and a vacuum or partial vacuum may forming in the lines if a breather is blocked. Vehicle would run ok for a limited number of miles but if no air getting into tank then vacuum forms and pump is slower to pull fuel through. However, you seem to indicate that the tank was leaking when it gets brimmed so likely to be plenty of space for air to get in even if the proper breather is blocked. Just a thought and possibly a complete red herring but I have had it happen on a petrol classic before and tried all sorts with carb and pump settings before solving it with a pin through the fuel cap breather hole.
Cheers....Ian
 
I’m no expert by any stretch and I’ve just rebuilt my diesel. I know when I phoned Pennine diesel pumps he mentioned my pump (sat in front of him) was goosed and the startup part of it was particularly knackered.
I have no idea how the pump knows when it’s starting or running but if there are two modes of pumping perhaps yours starts well but won’t run well.
Just a thought.
 
Moorhouse2 said:
Some of the replies have mentioned air getting into the system - my thinking would be the opposite and a vacuum or partial vacuum may forming in the lines if a breather is blocked. Vehicle would run ok for a limited number of miles but if no air getting into tank then vacuum forms and pump is slower to pull fuel through. However, you seem to indicate that the tank was leaking when it gets brimmed so likely to be plenty of space for air to get in even if the proper breather is blocked. Just a thought and possibly a complete red herring but I have had it happen on a petrol classic before and tried all sorts with carb and pump settings before solving it with a pin through the fuel cap breather hole.
Cheers....Ian
Click to expand...

Thanks Ian, that a really good thought. The comments about overfilling the tank weren’t mine, they were cut and pasted by another member about someone else’s issue.

What your saying about a lack of air as opposed to air getting in makes perfect sense, will explore that one further and see if running her up to temperature with the fuel cap off makes a difference.
 
Bobsticle said:
I’m no expert by any stretch and I’ve just rebuilt my diesel. I know when I phoned Pennine diesel pumps he mentioned my pump (sat in front of him) was goosed and the startup part of it was particularly knackered.
I have no idea how the pump knows when it’s starting or running but if there are two modes of pumping perhaps yours starts well but won’t run well.
Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Certainly not impossible but my pump was reconditioned less that 12 months ago and has been fine so really hope it’s not the issue.
 
The note of an rpm increase before it cuts out has to be significant. Have you done a compression test? What about a leak down test? Are you able to measure engine temp accurately?
 
I think this thread has got confused because it was originally started by a member who was experiencing an issue SIMILAR to mine but the causes of his (now resolved) are not apparently the SAME as mine. Other members have then cut and pasted (to demonstrate a point) the original members comments/solutions/advice received and that has confused the detail/progress of my issue.

My orignal post was:

Jumping into this thread because I'm experiencing a similar issue with my 1976 Series 3 Diesel.
Over the last year she's had a new lift pump, injector pump, injectors, fuel spill rail, copper pipes (injectors to injector pump), timing chain, water pump etc.
Drove home last night (9.5 miles) in stop/start/heavy traffic. 7 miles in and she started cutting out/stalling. Drove last 2.5 miles with 'throttle' lever open 1/3 to stop her stalling. Drove in this morning (same journey) in lighter/flowing traffic and fine again. The stalling has been a minor problem in the past (actually assumed I'd stalled it) after a really long run (50 miles+) now and then but now a daily thing.
As someone posted above, its a diesel so lack of fuel, air or mechanical failure are about the only things that can stop the engine.
Its obviously an issue that's only occurring when she's properly run up to temperature and the obvious cause would be air in the fuel system but, if that's the case, once its in its in so why would she run perfectly again when starting from cold?
Amount of fuel in the tank makes no difference so not feeling its that.
So why, when running at normal temperature, after about 6/7 miles, why does she cut out unless given/held on the throttle?
This is starting to drive me a bit crazy so all thoughts welcome!
Cheers.

To be clear my problem isn't accompanied by anything other than lifting my foot of the throttle (in the circumstances written above) and the engine cutting out/stalling, then no idle unless held on throttle until the engine cools down again. No increase in RPM, normal operating temperature (gauge accurate), no strange noises etc.

Land Rover is my daily driver.

Thanks.
 
Tim68 said:
I think this thread has got confused because it was originally started by a member who was experiencing an issue SIMILAR to mine but the causes of his (now resolved) are not apparently the SAME as mine. Other members have then cut and pasted (to demonstrate a point) the original members comments/solutions/advice received and that has confused the detail/progress of my issue.

My orignal post was:

Jumping into this thread because I'm experiencing a similar issue with my 1976 Series 3 Diesel.
Over the last year she's had a new lift pump, injector pump, injectors, fuel spill rail, copper pipes (injectors to injector pump), timing chain, water pump etc.
Drove home last night (9.5 miles) in stop/start/heavy traffic. 7 miles in and she started cutting out/stalling. Drove last 2.5 miles with 'throttle' lever open 1/3 to stop her stalling. Drove in this morning (same journey) in lighter/flowing traffic and fine again. The stalling has been a minor problem in the past (actually assumed I'd stalled it) after a really long run (50 miles+) now and then but now a daily thing.
As someone posted above, its a diesel so lack of fuel, air or mechanical failure are about the only things that can stop the engine.
Its obviously an issue that's only occurring when she's properly run up to temperature and the obvious cause would be air in the fuel system but, if that's the case, once its in its in so why would she run perfectly again when starting from cold?
Amount of fuel in the tank makes no difference so not feeling its that.
So why, when running at normal temperature, after about 6/7 miles, why does she cut out unless given/held on the throttle?
This is starting to drive me a bit crazy so all thoughts welcome!
Cheers.

To be clear my problem isn't accompanied by anything other than lifting my foot of the throttle (in the circumstances written above) and the engine cutting out/stalling, then no idle unless held on throttle until the engine cools down again. No increase in RPM, normal operating temperature (gauge accurate), no strange noises etc.

Land Rover is my daily driver.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
I think your fuel pump has gone out of adjustment slightly. I know you have had it rebuilt/reconditioned but it needs.looking at again.

Col
 
Tim68 said:
I think this thread has got confused because it was originally started by a member who was experiencing an issue SIMILAR to mine but the causes of his (now resolved) are not apparently the SAME as mine. Other members have then cut and pasted (to demonstrate a point) the original members comments/solutions/advice received and that has confused the detail/progress of my issue.

My orignal post was:

Jumping into this thread because I'm experiencing a similar issue with my 1976 Series 3 Diesel.
Over the last year she's had a new lift pump, injector pump, injectors, fuel spill rail, copper pipes (injectors to injector pump), timing chain, water pump etc.
Drove home last night (9.5 miles) in stop/start/heavy traffic. 7 miles in and she started cutting out/stalling. Drove last 2.5 miles with 'throttle' lever open 1/3 to stop her stalling. Drove in this morning (same journey) in lighter/flowing traffic and fine again. The stalling has been a minor problem in the past (actually assumed I'd stalled it) after a really long run (50 miles+) now and then but now a daily thing.
As someone posted above, its a diesel so lack of fuel, air or mechanical failure are about the only things that can stop the engine.
Its obviously an issue that's only occurring when she's properly run up to temperature and the obvious cause would be air in the fuel system but, if that's the case, once its in its in so why would she run perfectly again when starting from cold?
Amount of fuel in the tank makes no difference so not feeling its that.
So why, when running at normal temperature, after about 6/7 miles, why does she cut out unless given/held on the throttle?
This is starting to drive me a bit crazy so all thoughts welcome!
Cheers.

To be clear my problem isn't accompanied by anything other than lifting my foot of the throttle (in the circumstances written above) and the engine cutting out/stalling, then no idle unless held on throttle until the engine cools down again. No increase in RPM, normal operating temperature (gauge accurate), no strange noises etc.

Land Rover is my daily driver.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
I think a bimetallic strip in the injection pump has packed up, or similar.
You could try taking the pump off, and taking it to be tested on a test machine.
Alternatively, if you have another pump, you could put that on and give it a spin instead.
 
Colthebrummie said:
I think your fuel pump has gone out of adjustment slightly. I know you have had it rebuilt/reconditioned but it needs.looking at again.

Col
Click to expand...

Thanks Col.

And you think that only manifests itself when the injector pump is hot?

Interesting you should suggest that. When messing with her yesterday I found that, when cold enough to just hold on idle, if I manually played with the throttle lever on the pump itself I could get her to settle at her normal idle even when hot. Soon as I gave her more throttle on the pedal, or restarted her, I'd lose that and she would cut out.

I'm going to need to get a specialist to re-adjust her aren't I?
 
Turboman said:
I think a bimetallic strip in the injection pump has packed up, or similar.
You could try taking the pump off, and taking it to be tested on a test machine.
Alternatively, if you have another pump, you could put that on and give it a spin instead.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

Feeling that you and Col could well be correct. Don't have another pump to swap over. Damn!
 
Tim68 said:
Thanks Col.

And you think that only manifests itself when the injector pump is hot?

Interesting you should suggest that. When messing with her yesterday I found that, when cold enough to just hold on idle, if I manually played with the throttle lever on the pump itself I could get her to settle at her normal idle even when hot. Soon as I gave her more throttle on the pedal, or restarted her, I'd lose that and she would cut out.

I'm going to need to get a specialist to re-adjust her aren't I?
Click to expand...
Yes, I think so. I was once a mechanic on the birmingham buses. The powers that be thought us lowly mechanics were too thick to mess about with injection pumps so they were always sent to a specialist team for repair. The cav pumps of the day often showed symptoms similar to yours after they had been refurbed by the professionals. They used to put a seal on them to stop us messing about with them and it was a sacking offence if we did.

Col
 
Thanks Col.

Theres a second hand unrefurbed one on Ebay. Tempted to buy it so I can get up and running and then get the current one examined properly. Nightmare.
 
Colthebrummie said:
Yes, I think so. I was once a mechanic on the birmingham buses. The powers that be thought us lowly mechanics were too thick to mess about with injection pumps so they were always sent to a specialist team for repair. The cav pumps of the day often showed symptoms similar to yours after they had been refurbed by the professionals. They used to put a seal on them to stop us messing about with them and it was a sacking offence if we did.

Col
Click to expand...
I wouldn't take it personally.
I have always worked for myself, and I think I am too thick to work on Injection Pumps, I always take them to a specialist.
They are moderately fiddly, need a lot of data to set up properly, and a test machine to see if they work.
In addition, most homes, or workshops, lack an environment clean enough to take pumps apart.
 
Tim68 said:
Thanks Col.

Theres a second hand unrefurbed one on Ebay. Tempted to buy it so I can get up and running and then get the current one examined properly. Nightmare.
Click to expand...
It may leak, of course, they often do.

But getting a good spare is a very good idea. Reconditioning pumps is a lot of work, changing them isn't.
 
Shame you live darn sarf. You could pop over and chuck mine on for a few hours. Maybe a shout on international rescue for a local to give you a helping hand.
At least it would narrow things down to a pump fault.
 
I know, the madness of owning a classic in a city tryingto turn electric!

Soon as the Ebay one arrives I'll swap them over and see how I go from there.

Update to follow.
 
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