Cheers. Do I need to slacken the chain tensioner off at any point during this?
Cheers. Do I need to slacken the chain tensioner off at any point during this?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you shouldnt need to need
ok cheers mate
Was just thinking. If I just spin the crank round till I find the groove again, this wont have piston 1 at tdc will it... Am I going to have to remove injector from cyl 1 to find out which rotation gives me TDC on cyl 1, and then locate flywheel groove which should be near as dammit, then lock it. Then set cam pulley again??
Is there no other TDC mark for the crank? or is it under the bottom cover...
Is there no other TDC mark for the crank? or is it under the bottom cover...
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
thought you were only a little out ie just moving cam a little ,if your unsure remove cam wheel fit crank pin then cam pin fit wheel and chain loose tension chain and tighten bolts
i was just a little out but then I turned the engine over a couple of times before I realised!! Meaning that if I just turn the engine over one revolution and find the flywheel slot again, its not going to have piston one at TDC?!
I can prob find the notch again actually if I ID rocker shaft 1 stop lifting, then mess about trying to find the flywheel notch either side of that! thanks
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jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
piston is at the top when crank pin is fitted ,once cam marks aligned it is at no1 tdc ,no need to remove injector it wont tell you anything
cheers mate. Think my brain is fading from the cold lol
will update when Ive bolted her up
Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
Just leave the injector plug at the front of the head disconnected and it wont inject any fuel into the bores so it wont fire. Once happy you have oil pressure reconnect and away it should go.Is that even without a pressure test? where should I be looking exactly on the head please... or is 'all over' applicable ?
Also, can anyone tell me what fuse i am best off pulling (and where its located..! ) so I can prevent ignition to build some oil pressure up before first starting after its back together. many thanks
Hallbeckengineering
New Member
use a digital thermometer to check over temperatures of engine etc to see if every thing is actually as warm as it should be first.
Right. Got it back together this avo.
The jurys out as to the long term results..!
It fired up and has run as sweet as a nut. No pressurising of the coolant system at all. And I took it for a HARD run once it had warmed up. The heater gets warm (its not exactly belting even on 28 degrees) but I have no other disco to compare it to. Temp sites in the middle. Coolant level doesnt appear to drop at all (need a daylight check)
The gurgling noise behind the dash was totally cured.... then I heard a small air bubble noise in heater matrix after about 3 mins driving and then nothing for the rest of the drive, but I'm thinking this this could be a little air left in the system so going to recheck rebleed and lift expansion tank this time. Unless its purged itself already!
Will update this thread in a day or two with the final outcome... the downside is the rear wiper seems to have stopped working, and the positive battery terminal seems to be lose and wont tighten up any more... so theres always something to do on these cars it seems :/
The jurys out as to the long term results..!
It fired up and has run as sweet as a nut. No pressurising of the coolant system at all. And I took it for a HARD run once it had warmed up. The heater gets warm (its not exactly belting even on 28 degrees) but I have no other disco to compare it to. Temp sites in the middle. Coolant level doesnt appear to drop at all (need a daylight check)
The gurgling noise behind the dash was totally cured.... then I heard a small air bubble noise in heater matrix after about 3 mins driving and then nothing for the rest of the drive, but I'm thinking this this could be a little air left in the system so going to recheck rebleed and lift expansion tank this time. Unless its purged itself already!
Will update this thread in a day or two with the final outcome... the downside is the rear wiper seems to have stopped working, and the positive battery terminal seems to be lose and wont tighten up any more... so theres always something to do on these cars it seems :/
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Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
After 500 miles or so take the cam cover off and retorque the injector clamps. They have a habit of coming loose as the copper injector washers settle.
Cheers mate. Will do.
I've driven the car a lot more today. All seems good at the minute so I will put some more miles on it and update later this week. I got a giblet more air out of the system after raising the expansion bottle and all is quiet on the gurgling front, the heater is also now properly hot once the car is warming so I have fingers crossed all is ok..
There is no pressure in any hoses or expansion bottle. I will put a decent few miles on her this week and see, then on to the next jobs :decision:
Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you've sorted it.
