lenny1234 said:
I see your knowledge has failed to keep up with fuel injection and drive by wire.

On at leasts one car I have had, flooring the throttle is how you CLEAR the flooding.


In this case I am beginning to think it is flooded and that it may well be a temperature sensor at fault.
Click to expand...

If the ECT sensor fails or becomes disconnected, the ECM will use a default value which is based on values from the
engine oil temperature sensor. The driver may not notice that a fault is present although a fault code will be stored in
the ECM which can be retrieved using TestBook. The default value will also include operation of the cooling fans in
fast mode when the engine is running.
 
tonytherunner said:
If the ECT sensor fails or becomes disconnected, the ECM will use a default value which is based on values from the
engine oil temperature sensor. The driver may not notice that a fault is present although a fault code will be stored in
the ECM which can be retrieved using TestBook. The default value will also include operation of the cooling fans in
fast mode when the engine is running.
Click to expand...


No oil temperature sensor on the 1.8 Freelander ;). If the CTS has failed, the ECU sets a default value of 70°C iirc for timing/ fueling calculations. The engine will definitely run OK, well enough for some owners not to notice the fault. However with a failed CTS the ECU will also put the cooling fans on as the engine temperature can't be monitored.
 
Nodge68 said:
No oil temperature sensor on the 1.8 Freelander ;). If the CTS has failed, the ECU sets a default value of 70°C iirc for timing/ fueling calculations. The engine will definitely run OK, well enough for some owners not to notice the fault. However with a failed CTS the ECU will also put the cooling fans on as the engine temperature can't be monitored.
Click to expand...

I'm only going by my son's O Series engine - presumably the management is similar. It has a temp guage that is not reading correctly - in winter it is very difficult to start the car, summer much easier and once hot starts and runs fine. The ECU may not know the CTS is faulty - it may be taking a value returned by it as true - when in actual fact its not - eg says its warm/hot when in actual fact its very cold.

OP doesn't say where he's from on this thread or his intro, so I'll assume he's from up North - and its fecking feezing up there even in the height of summer!

However, he did say he's changed the CTS. Did you change the right sensor though? There's 2 near to each other, only 1 is the CTS (obviously!).
 
lenny1234 said:
I see your knowledge has failed to keep up with fuel injection and drive by wire.

On at leasts one car I have had, flooring the throttle is how you CLEAR the flooding.


In this case I am beginning to think it is flooded and that it may well be a temperature sensor at fault.
Click to expand...

if I get into my wife's freelander 1800 and push the pedal to the floor it will flood and if I do it on my td4 it will flood it, ok to push it to the floor when trying to clear flooding but not on first start up, some people you can try to help some you can not good luck with it.
 
Nodge68 said:
No oil temperature sensor on the 1.8 Freelander ;). If the CTS has failed, the ECU sets a default value of 70°C iirc for timing/ fueling calculations. The engine will definitely run OK, well enough for some owners not to notice the fault. However with a failed CTS the ECU will also put the cooling fans on as the engine temperature can't be monitored.
Click to expand...

Definitely has oil temperature sensor ......It is positioned near the oil pressure switch...
 
Last edited:
I just looked at the Rave docs and there is no oil temp sensor on the exploded view of the engine block. It shows the oil filter adaptor with filter and pressure switch, but there's no oil temp sensor anywhere on the diagram. This is for -> 01MY K Series.
 
tonytherunner said:
Definitely has oil temperature sensor ......It is positioned near the oil pressure switch...
Click to expand...

Not on the early Freelander. The only pre cat 1.8 K series that has an oil temp sensor is the VVC. This is used to calculate VVC mech movement. The Freelander ECU simply doesn't need to know oil temperature. For the Freelander, all calculations are based on coolant temperature. ;)
 
grumpygel said:
i just looked at the rave docs and there is no oil temp sensor on the exploded view of the engine block. It shows the oil filter adaptor with filter and pressure switch, but there's no oil temp sensor anywhere on the diagram. This is for -> 01my k series.
Click to expand...

It is number 20 of picture....

untitled.JPG

untitled2.JPG
 
Nodge68 said:
There is an oil temp sensor shown in the diagram. However that diagram is for the later Freelander running MEMS 3 with a pre-cat in the manifold. The Freelander in question is using MEMS 1.9 which doesn't have a need for an oil temperature sensor. ;)
Click to expand...

:5bcheers2:
....You're right, MEMS 1.9 does not require oil temperature sensor....
 
teddywood1 said:
if I get into my wife's freelander 1800 and push the pedal to the floor it will flood and if I do it on my td4 it will flood it, ok to push it to the floor when trying to clear flooding but not on first start up, some people you can try to help some you can not good luck with it.
Click to expand...

If you ever flooded a td4 do tell me how much you paid for a new engine.
 
From Lancashire, changed both sensors, the one horizontal which is easy to see, I assume is the CTS? and the one underneath which you can't see got swapped out from a running freelander.

I've also sat these sensors on a radiator for half hour until very warm to touch, then connected them back in the bay and tried firing up, with no luck still
 
lenny1234 said:
If you ever flooded a td4 do tell me how much you paid for a new engine.
Click to expand...

Ive changed that twice including heating one on the radiator and fitting whilst hot to fool the ecu. Think this Freelander is going to become a donor for the HGF Freelander I bought most recently. Only needs HG doing or engine & hose swap and Rear window reg and it should be good to go.
 
@jda070504 - I see that this thread was a while ago now but I have the identical issue on my 02 1.8 Freelander. Is there any chance you found what the problem was in the end??
 
Nodge68 said:
He's not logged onto the forum for over 6 years, so an answer might be a lot time coming.
Click to expand...
Ah damn, thanks Nodge68. Its a shame, seems like they almost checked the entire car. Perhaps I can list of the things they have ruled out and just swap what is left. Wiper arm and a dust cap by the looks of it.
 
Dead_Landy said:
@jda070504 - I see that this thread was a while ago now but I have the identical issue on my 02 1.8 Freelander. Is there any chance you found what the problem was in the end??
Click to expand...
What's your Hippo's problem? K-series will generally start within a revolution of the crank on the starter - so if it doesn't, you would be thinking of a crank or cam position sensor fault. A diagnostic widget could be your friend if your car is post 2001 (and therefore EOBD compliant), otherwise you'll need a more dedicated tool to get the live data/ fault codes :)
 
rob_bell said:
What's your Hippo's problem? K-series will generally start within a revolution of the crank on the starter - so if it doesn't, you would be thinking of a crank or cam position sensor fault. A diagnostic widget could be your friend if your car is post 2001 (and therefore EOBD compliant), otherwise you'll need a more dedicated tool to get the live data/ fault codes :)
Click to expand...
Hey rob_bell, The issue I'm experiencing is identical to the head line of the thread, the engine cranks over and occasionally on the first attempt after the car was sitting for a while it fires up and revs to about 2000 rpm before immediately cutting out and dying. I have been checking things off one by one, I have a spark on all cylinders, I have good fuel pressure and delivery to the cylinders. Compression is good and from what I can see on my OBD reader - a crank sensor, a MAP flow, inlet temp, throttle position all reading a good value. My gut is telling me something is up with the immobilizer but I cannot find anything in the Haynes about it at all and don't exactly know how the immobilizer effect the vehicle to immobilize it. Any knowledge on this would be much appreciated.
 
Immobiliser is a possibility - although I don't really have experience with that as a fault. You would think a failure of the immobiliser signal would lead to a permanent non-start, or if the engine did start, it would do so normally rather than with such a fast idle speed. That fast idle is hard to explain unless the idle valve control is playing up - but a faulty IACV would generally not lead to non-starting issues - it would act rather like a faulty choke position (if you're familiar with older car engines).

What do the spark plugs look like? I guessing the engine is flooding - in which case they'll look wet. If they're not wet and look normal, then perhaps the fuel pump is not working (consistent with your immobiliser theory)
 
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