If you've swapped the ECU - I believe you also need to swap the CCU from the same car - that's because of the code that TTR mentions.

TBH unless you know there are problems with it - I'd put the original ECU & CCU back on the motor.
 
Not swapped the ECU, just tried this and the 27vt unit on a separate vehicle and it worked perfectly, so it got put back on this one.

Think today's job with be strip out and swap the engine loom, see if there's a break in that.
 
If you have a spark, the CPS is working as ignition timing is based on it. There's no guarantee that the plugs will be wet with fuel after a few seconds cranking as the amount of fuel injected is tiny. Something around 1 part fuel to 15 parts air, by weight. Imagine how little the air in 1 cylinder weighs, well the fuel injected weighs around 1/15th of the air.
Are the plugs leads sequenced correctly?
 
Yep, leads on correctly. I've connected a seperate fuel rail and left it sat on the engine whilst cranking the engine, this way I can physically see the fuel coming out the manifold. once the car has been immobilized, knock the immobilizer off and with the key turned fully to start the engine, you get about 4 squirts of fuel, then nothing at all.

Only time you get anything else is turn the key back to let the immobilizer kick in again and repeat the proccess.

I've connected the other 1.8 freelander ecu but kept the 27vt in place to see what effect that had but still nothing (thought I might have got then mixed up). Don't seem to get the initial fuel spray which is to be expected.

I was going to change none A/C loom over to an A/C from my other to see if that helped but I've reached a point now where every fuse, relay and engine bay earth has been checked and swapped, fuel pump, inlet, injectors, denso unit, plug, leads, dizzy. Arm, battery, fuse box, starter, both CTS, CPS, have all been changed.

I'm running out of ideas now
 
If no code is received or the code is incorrect, the ECM will disable the vehicle by not energising the fuel injectors.
The immobilisation ECU also controls the starter relay and will passively disarm the starter relay when the key is
removed from the ignition switch. Rearming is performed by switching the ignition on, which activates a coil around
the ignition key barrel.
The coil transmits a waveform signal which excites the remote handset to transmit a re-mobilisation signal. When the
signal is received by the anti-theft alarm ECU, the starter relay will be enabled.
 
Have you tried plugging in a code reader to see if the systems will tell you what's wrong?

Once with my D1 I had somehow got into a permanent immobilised state which needed clearing.
 
Not had the codes read. Its trying to find a mobile mechanic that can read fault codes on the early MEMS 1.9 unit. They aren't OBD2 compliant are they?
 
Getting back to basics have you checked the timing marks are all lining up on the crank and camshaft pulleys? If the timing belt has slipped a tooth you might get the same fault.
 
Well, after alibro's advice I decided to check the timing.

Set to Tdc and found the cams.........



So I've set the cams up to TDC as so.....





And guess what's happens when you turn the engine over........

NOTHING. For some reason the fuel pump doesnt even prime now when the key is turned to position 2. Just get a click from the door locks and that's it. No fuel in the manifold, no hiccup on start up. Nothing anymore, how can correcting timing do that?!?!?!
 
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a few degrees out on timing wont stop and engine running.

I dont think that's the problem.

Unless there is a crankshaft position sensor on the cam shafts when the spark may be well out - but even then you should get a kick.

I think you are in the wrong place. If the fuel pump doesn't start that might in fact be the whole problem
 
Thing is. The fuel pump was priming 2 days ago. It's a replacement fuel pump from a working vehicle and is in good condition. Once changed onto this hippo it primed on turning the key to position 2 as it should and it released jets of fuel from the injectors briefly but the engine wouldnt fire up. That's why I checked the timing after being advised to by alibro. The camshaft pulleys are lined up perfectly and this is where the crank pulley was....

 
Re timing marks, the crank pulley lines up with the mark to the right of the TDC one, then the two cam pulleys should align their marks. This is the position used to fit a cam belt. You don't use the TDC mark.
 
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Bugger, so the photo above is almost BANG on to start with? Would this stop the fuel pump priming at all now it's that far out or have I still got 2 seperate issues to sort?
 
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Can't think why it would stop the fuel pump, sounds more like the immobiliser has kicked in or the battery has died.
Before you rule out timing have you taken the bolts off the pulleys to ensure the dowel is in the right place?
Take a look at the pic fanatic put up. When I refitted the pulleys on mine I got them wrong and the car sounded like it was trying to start but wouldn't.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/help-replace-freelander-1-8-k-series-engine-166136-5.html
 
The battery went on charge for an hour after being run low a couple of days ago. I've give it a full charge now, maybe that'll make the difference.

Will check under the bolts if I get chance tonight. Then I'll time the crank & cam pulleys, belt back on. I snapped the Allen key slot on the tensioner clean in half last night so I'll need to Nick the one I have on my other hippo. Then a fully charged battery and all being well (which I highly doubt) it'll fire up
 
The cam timing was correct or there abouts. The crank pulley is set at the "safe" position which is 60° after TDC. There is a timing hole in the engine back plate the lines up with a hole in the flywheel at the correct point. There are also a pair of dots on the cam belt pulley under the drive belt pulley. These dots line up with a pointer on the oil pump casing. Most accurate is the hole in the flywheel though. A 6mm drill bit fits well enough for setting the belt timing.

The fuel pump should prime on turning the key. If not then 1st check the impact sensor behind the fuse box on the bulkhead.
 
I think we should look at this logically guys.

The car came in with some kind of dire electrical fault.....but ran. So timing is perhaps not the issue. Door lock mayhem may be the REAL pointer.

It's an early MEMS, and i think the ECU needs replacing, putting on a testbook rig, put into learn mode/security re-arm and adaptive reset. Then do the idle step valve settings (there is a thought), and HOTDBPOS (Idle control increments).

Its a good Indie or a Main Stealer job imho. Its not just a matter of swapping a couple of bits over.
 
The ecu & 27vt put onto another freelander works perfectly. Engine cranks and starts, idles fine and drives. Back in this and it doesn't start
 
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