Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
You do everything in a weird way.
Aye i do everything in an unconventional manner
Aye i do everything in an unconventional manner
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Hes a good weird
Like his semi-autistic knowledge of gearboxes is crazy yet great
Like his semi-autistic knowledge of gearboxes is crazy yet great
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I assume then it also stops with the ignition off?
That is correct it stops when the ignition is turned off.
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
First off, forget about the hissing from the brake switch, it has absolutely nothing to do with the operation of the brakes, it is only for cruise control. P38 brakes do not use vacuum.
Secondly, any pressure bleeder is fine. I bought one of these off amazon and its brilliant. You can get them cheaper if you go for a smaller one and are not in a rush.
3L Hand Brake Fluid Bleeder Bleeding One Man Tool Kit Amazon product
Secondly, any pressure bleeder is fine. I bought one of these off amazon and its brilliant. You can get them cheaper if you go for a smaller one and are not in a rush.
3L Hand Brake Fluid Bleeder Bleeding One Man Tool Kit Amazon product
Thank you! I will Disregard the hissing and find an affordable bleeder. I'm some what relieved that a good bleeding may resolve my issue. Will check Amazon after work today. Much appreciated!!
Is the master cylinder reservoir cap 45mm? Need to know to purchase the correct bleeder.
Thanks
Hello all, I have two questions
1st- I'm want to purchase a power bleeder but I don't know the millimeter size of my brake resevoir "cap". Can someone let me know? (Is it 45mm, 42mm etc). I tried to measure but it depends on how you measure.
2nd- Is it possible that I need an analyzer/scanner to open/flutter the valves to bleed the abs system? I viewed a British Atlantic video and it mentioned that it maybe necessary. 1996 Range Rover 4.0 SE Automatic
Thanks and much appreciated
1st- I'm want to purchase a power bleeder but I don't know the millimeter size of my brake resevoir "cap". Can someone let me know? (Is it 45mm, 42mm etc). I tried to measure but it depends on how you measure.
2nd- Is it possible that I need an analyzer/scanner to open/flutter the valves to bleed the abs system? I viewed a British Atlantic video and it mentioned that it maybe necessary. 1996 Range Rover 4.0 SE Automatic
Thanks and much appreciated
Hello all, I have two questions
1st- I'm want to purchase a power bleeder but I don't know the millimeter size of my brake resevoir "cap". Can someone let me know? (Is it 45mm, 42mm etc). I tried to measure but it depends on how you measure.
2nd- Is it possible that I need an analyzer/scanner to open/flutter the valves to bleed the abs system? I viewed a British Atlantic video and it mentioned that it maybe necessary. 1996 Range Rover 4.0 SE Automatic
Thanks and much appreciated
1st- I'm want to purchase a power bleeder but I don't know the millimeter size of my brake resevoir "cap". Can someone let me know? (Is it 45mm, 42mm etc). I tried to measure but it depends on how you measure.
2nd- Is it possible that I need an analyzer/scanner to open/flutter the valves to bleed the abs system? I viewed a British Atlantic video and it mentioned that it maybe necessary. 1996 Range Rover 4.0 SE Automatic
Thanks and much appreciated
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
^^^^^^^^^ as I've said before follow Rave's instructions
I will follow RAVE 'a instructions to the letter in the morning and I will let you know what happens. You are 5 hours ahead of me, so I will bleed around 10:00am my time should be 3:00pm your time. If you monitor your email I can follow up with you for additional advice. Thank you very much!!!
Just make sure all bubbles are out of the modulator, the ones Tomcat was on about. You can do it with the pedal but it gets boring! Just to be sure, pump a pint each out of those 3 before moving on. Good luck!
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
I'll be in the pub at 3.00pm mate after visiting Her mum in the care home I need a pint or two. You'll be fine using Rave.
Well I followed rave to the letter 2 times but when I get the last step "Turn on ignition and let the pump run until it stops accept it won't stop. Not sure what else to do. The only thing I come up with, is that a scanner is needed to open and close the valve in the pump. I did replace the abs pump, accumulator, pressure switch and new relay. 3 are used but have been swapped out twice except relay it's new. Frustrated!
All advice is appreciated. 1996 RR 4.0 SE automatic.
Well I followed rave to the letter 2 times but when I get the last step "Turn on ignition and let the pump run until it stops accept it won't stop. Not sure what else to do. The only thing I come up with, is that a scanner is needed to open and close the valve in the pump. I did replace the abs pump, accumulator, pressure switch and new relay. 3 are used but have been swapped out twice except relay it's new. Frustrated!
All advice is appreciated. 1996 RR 4.0 SE automatic.
You're doing all the right things. Accumulator stores pressure, pump provides pressure and switch tells pump when to switch off. Air locks absorb pressure so pump runs. No air in system. Switch replaced. No leaks (fluid level is stable, no wet patches anywhere?).
I am out of my depth here but wiring and connectors spring to mind. Does pump run all the time when ignition on? When pump is pulled in, does switch go high or low? Does signal go straight to pump or through ABS ECU? @martyuk might know as he's played with the ABS ECU and seen a few oddities, albeit usually with the later models.
I am out of my depth here but wiring and connectors spring to mind. Does pump run all the time when ignition on? When pump is pulled in, does switch go high or low? Does signal go straight to pump or through ABS ECU? @martyuk might know as he's played with the ABS ECU and seen a few oddities, albeit usually with the later models.
