R

Rover9676

Active Member
Hello all, I'm new to forum. I live in the United States -Michigan. I have a 1996 Range Rover 4.0 SE.. Had been sitting garage for 4 years. Got it started and it ran great.. Then the brakes stopped working as they should and the abs pump continues to run.. I've been trouble shooting for awhile with no luck. I replaced the abs relay, swapped the accumulator, changed the pressure switch and bled brakes according to RAVE.. HOWEVER, near the end of the bleed process when I turn on the key charge the system the buzzing in end abs pump doesn't stop running.. All help is greatly appreciated!
Rover9676
 
Hi and welcome! If I've not said it before
When you say it won't stop pumping, how long have you left it? Are you making sure the reservoir doesn't get too low?
You've changed the pressure switch. But is the connector/wire good?
If it's not getting up to pressure them I'd assume there's still air somewhere
 
Watch the fluid level, if it goes down ; fluid out = air in.

Guessing you have auto
They can be a nightmare to bleed all the air out.

There’s quite a few threads in searchbar
 
Good morning or afternoon! First Thank You very much for replying. I let the pump run for up to 8 minutes or so. I make sure the reservoir stays full. It's an automatic. I haven't check the connector wire, I'm not good at electical but can learn. I searched the threads for about 2 hours last night but didn't recognize my issues with those posts. I awakened this morning thinking it may be electrical so this morning I'm going to take it off the Jack-stands and drive with the abs relay in and relay out to check the brakes. Wife has been pumping pedal while I bleed the system.

Also I noticed when I turn key to run the pump, the brake fluid in the reservoir goes down and when turn off the the fluid in the reservoir rises back to maximum. How would I check the connector wire?
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 
Level should be checked when pump stops running read this -

wammers said:
The hand brake lamp also doubles as the low fluid indicator. It is not speed or pressure related. If the hand brake lamp stays on with hand brake off it indicates low fluid. TC lamp will be lit with ignition and will go out when ABS minimum operating pressure is reached. Pump will continue to run until max pressure is obtained then stop. Only then can fluid level be checked, filled to MAX line. ABS lamp will come on with ignition flash off and back on and will go out when road speed reaches 5 MPH.
Click to expand...
 
Checked fluid levels and lights, okay. I'm trying to determine what's causing my pump to run. Do you think I still have air in the lines? How can I rule out the accumulator and master brake cylinder? There are no leaks anywhere vacuum or fluid. How do I check the abs pump connector wire? The red-brake light located
on in the right side of the Dash is on. I never knew there was a hand-brake lamp. Where is it located?
Thanks for responding!
 
Have you changed the accumulator? Black bulb thing near the pump?

If air has got in the modulator it can be a pig to get out. I've pushed 2 or 3 litres through in the past when fitting a new one to get all the air out. Never had a pump go that long though so suspect accumulator. Or maybe the pump itself is no longer pressuring the system but they're big bucks.
 
Sounds like I got air in the modulator (Master Cylinder Block). 1st I bought a Pressure Switch and swapped it out. 2nd I bought an abs pump with accumulator. 3rd I swapped out the old accumulator and bleed. 4th I changed out the abs pump and bled. 5th I put the purchased accumulator back on the pump it was purchased with and bled. 6th I bought a new abs-relay.
Grrr it sounds like I just have a modulator full of air that needs to bled according to RAVE, until I get all the air out.
Any and All to help RESOLVE this issue is greatly Appreciated.
Thank you,
 
Hey there, just follow the bleeding procedure to the T and that'll rule out air. I did mine with a power bleeder and it worked really well but following procedure is the key.
:D
 
Mark Piercy said:
Hey there, just follow the bleeding procedure to the T and that'll rule out air. I did mine with a power bleeder and it worked really well but following procedure is the key.
:D
Click to expand...
Mark Piercy said:
Hey there, just follow the bleeding procedure to the T and that'll rule out air. I did mine with a power bleeder and it worked really well but following procedure is the key.
:D
Click to expand...
How many times do you think I have to bleed the system to get rid of the air?
Thanks
 
Welcome to the forum. I'm in Colorado and this thread makes me glad that the brake system on my 95 is working.
Good luck.

The folks here will help you immensely.
 
Took me few tries get the clutch pedal feel back. Just follow RAVE thoroughly and keep bleeding, be prepared to give it another go ;)
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Took me few tries get the clutch pedal feel back. Just follow RAVE thoroughly and keep bleeding, be prepared to give it another go ;)
Click to expand...
Thanks, it's an automatic 1996 RR 4.0 SE. I will bleed the system again today and let you know how it goes.
Much appreciated!!!
 
I found an Ezibleed kit good for pumping through the modulator before starting on the brakes themselves. Just push a litre or so through to be sure. There should be no bubbles coming out. Top up very regularly as air gets sucked in if it drops a bit.
 
Grrr thanks! I took it off the stands to take it for a drive to rest the pedal. When I started the RR I heard a kind of loud shhhhhh when I pressed the brake inside the car. I traced the shhhhh to the brake-pedal switch with the attached vacuum hose from the intake plenum. When I press the brake pedal with car running the shhhhh was continuous. So I took down the duct work, started the RR, press the brake pedal with one hand and pushed the brake switch valve in withers other hand and the shhhhh stops. The vacuum hose does not have any leaks. So vacuum is coming out of the switch from the plastic stem that contacts the brake pedal. When the pedal is depressed the stem comes out. when take your foot-off the pedal the stem is pushed back into the switch. I never heard shhhhh from the pedal before, so I guess that brake switch is broken. Also, on the drive I got the shhhhh when I depressed the brake pedal and the vehicle was hard difficult to stop, but pedal would go fro. Spongy to hard and require going almost to floor to stop. I then pulled the abs relay and braking got a lot worse. So I guess the abs pump is working and pressure is escaping from the brake-pedal switch vacuum-connected. I also disconnected the vacuum hose from the brake pedal switch, covered the hose with my finger and pressed the pedal with the other hand while the RR was running and no shhhhh. All advice is helpful and appreciated.
Thanks, you all very helpful. I'm now hopeful I will eventually resolve this brake issue.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I found an Ezibleed kit good for pumping through the modulator before starting on the brakes themselves. Just push a litre or so through to be sure. There should be no bubbles coming out. Top up very regularly as air gets sucked in if it drops a bit.
Click to expand...
I will look for an enabled. Where do I connect it on the modulator?
Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

MikeFl4
P38A ABS faults and codes
Replies
17
Views
3K
MikeFl4
MikeFl4
B
ABS pump intermittent
Replies
18
Views
1K
BigJessie
B
N
P38 hard very occasional hard brake pedal ( hopefully cured ).
Replies
14
Views
2K
pete12345
pete12345
MikeFl4
P38A ABS Fault and Traction failure from ignition II
3 4 5
Replies
87
Views
11K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
P
Freelander 1 Brakes
Replies
10
Views
1K
doobreydog
doobreydog