J

johnboy429

Active Member
Ok here goes... Picked up a p38 yesterday took it on a little test drive and engine pulled well (got full service history and receipts for thousands spent in head gasket and various service items..) went up the road and back again (wasn't insured yet) so done a deal... Then this morning as I was going to work I noticed it took until 3500-3750 rpm before it would change up a gear... Got me worrying!
On my dinner iv checked over ATF level while box in neutral and car cold but running (ATF is low)
Also drive it in low range box in 'd/4' position and it changed through the gears nicely...
Am I right in presuming it could be a transfer box issue as the gears are there in low ratio but it'll just rev and rev in hi?
Iv had a look on the box for a kick down cable but I can only see a cable going to a mounting on the box,then attached to a "push rod" but this doesn't move when accelerator is pressed?
Sorry if this has been covered iv looked but can't see a post were the box is fine in low ratio! If it could just be low fluids causing it I'm happy to put some ATF in if it will work however if it's a fatal gearbox problem I'll be looking at taking it back to the guy I bought it off with a not happy face on me! ��
I have seen some threads where just a filter change sorted it an also one with a bad earth connection on driver side wheel arch? But majority seem to end in a replacement gearbox!
 
If it changes normally when warm change fluid and filter and stick some Lucas in it then change fluid again in a couple of weeks and stick another bottle of Lucas in it. There is no kick down cable.
 
Hi thanks for your response, it doesn't get any better when warm iv got to take it upto speed then stamp on the accelerator to send revs up the it'll change but it just seems like a waste of fuel?! It's almost like it's constantly thinking it's in kick down?
 
johnboy429 said:
Hi thanks for your response, it doesn't get any better when warm iv got to take it upto speed then stamp on the accelerator to send revs up the it'll change but it just seems like a waste of fuel?! It's almost like it's constantly thinking it's in kick down?
Click to expand...

Change the fluid see what you get. Usual problem is sticky valve block and or restricted filter. Usually improves as oil warms and thins. Low fluid won't help the situation. Normal way to force a change is to back off the throttle slightly.
 
Check it's not in Sport mode, button in front right of gear lever.
It will not be the transfer box but it is possible that it's the transfer box ECU.
 
"Stc2299" part number on eBay? For the sensor? Where in the car is gearbox Ecu? Found some on eBay for £20ish and the sensor for £15ish
Which one would you try first? I don't really want to throw money at it as I'm not happy I have to with only just getting it!
 
johnboy429 said:
"Stc2299" part number on eBay? For the sensor? Where in the car is gearbox Ecu? Found some on eBay for £20ish and the sensor for £15ish
Which one would you try first? I don't really want to throw money at it as I'm not happy I have to with only just getting it!
Click to expand...

Land Rover Range Rover MK2 2.5 D Delphi Coolant Temperature Sensor Genuine | eBay

That looks like the one.
If I was you I would try that first before you start getting other parts.
If you search for my thread one for the gearbox gurus you will get a full description of the fsults i had and that was the cure
 
johnboy429 said:
Ok here goes... Picked up a p38 yesterday took it on a little test drive and engine pulled well (got full service history and receipts for thousands spent in head gasket and various service items..) went up the road and back again (wasn't insured yet) so done a deal... Then this morning as I was going to work I noticed it took until 3500-3750 rpm before it would change up a gear... Got me worrying!
On my dinner iv checked over ATF level while box in neutral and car cold but running (ATF is low)
Also drive it in low range box in 'd/4' position and it changed through the gears nicely...
Am I right in presuming it could be a transfer box issue as the gears are there in low ratio but it'll just rev and rev in hi?
Iv had a look on the box for a kick down cable but I can only see a cable going to a mounting on the box,then attached to a "push rod" but this doesn't move when accelerator is pressed?
Sorry if this has been covered iv looked but can't see a post were the box is fine in low ratio! If it could just be low fluids causing it I'm happy to put some ATF in if it will work however if it's a fatal gearbox problem I'll be looking at taking it back to the guy I bought it off with a not happy face on me! ��
I have seen some threads where just a filter change sorted it an also one with a bad earth connection on driver side wheel arch? But majority seem to end in a replacement gearbox!
Click to expand...

I had this g/box problem with my p38.changed the filter and atf,i used lucas oils in mine.this made a huge difference to it.changed gears at it should do.;)
 
ovalandrover said:
Land Rover Range Rover MK2 2.5 D Delphi Coolant Temperature Sensor Genuine | eBay

That looks like the one.
If I was you I would try that first before you start getting other parts.
If you search for my thread one for the gearbox gurus you will get a full description of the fsults i had and that was the cure
Click to expand...

I think your gear change problems were because your particular ECU temp sensor was hung on a wire in the engine bay. And not connected to the engine at all. Slightly different scenario to this one.
 
wammers said:
I think your gear change problems were because your particular ECU temp sensor was hung on a wire in the engine bay. And not connected to the engine at all. Slightly different scenario to this one.
Click to expand...

I think that you will find the symptoms the same changing at 3500 rpm. so isnt it worth a try for under 20 pounds where as lucas will cost about the same plus atf fluid and filter and fitting.
I also proved that the ecu temp sensor was faulty by fitting a new one without putting it in the block and it worked up to a point but perfectly when fitted .
 
ovalandrover said:
I think that you will find the symptoms the same changing at 3500 rpm. so isnt it worth a try for under 20 pounds where as lucas will cost about the same plus atf fluid and filter and fitting.
I also proved that the ecu temp sensor was faulty by fitting a new one without putting it in the block and it worked up to a point but perfectly when fitted .
Click to expand...

I do seem to remember you took a lot of convincing that it should actually be screwed into the engine. :D There would be other problems if it was the ECU temp sensor, i suppose he could try one but doubt if it will be that. :);)
 
johnboy429 said:
"Stc2299" part number on eBay? For the sensor? Where in the car is gearbox Ecu? Found some on eBay for £20ish and the sensor for £15ish
Which one would you try first? I don't really want to throw money at it as I'm not happy I have to with only just getting it!
Click to expand...
It's highly unlikely to be the autobox ECU, they are very reliable.
Sensor is a possible but have you checked the sport mode button?
 
Datatek said:
It's highly unlikely to be the autobox ECU, they are very reliable.
Sensor is a possible but have you checked the sport mode button?
Click to expand...

Keith, Overlanders problems were because his ECU temp sensor was hanging from the wire in the engine bay and NOT screwed into the engine. As long as this particular vehicle activates glow lamps and they are cancelled when engine is warm i don't think that can be the problem. If it was other things would also be apparent.
 
wammers said:
Keith, Overlanders problems were because his ECU temp sensor was hanging from the wire in the engine bay and NOT screwed into the engine. As long as this particular vehicle activates glow lamps and they are cancelled when engine is warm i don't think that can be the problem. If it was other things would also be apparent.
Click to expand...
Except that changes are delayed when the engine is cold?
 
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