K

Kurt Gustafson

Member
Hi!

I have problems with my Defender. It has been parked for nearly two years, and will not start.
It got a fresh battery, and the starter engine is OK.

The main problem is with the immobilizer or something related to that. When I disarm the alarm the interior light goes on, indicators blink and everything seems to be OK. Turn the key, lights in the dash comes on, but when I try to start the the car evrything dies....

Injection pump got three wires, an the white one reads 12 v with ignition turned on.

Where do i go next???
 
Have you checked the battery voltage before turning the ignition key? If its only 12v it is discharged. And when you turn the key the glow plugs will take what is left in the battery and everything will die.
 
If its not turning over then you can ignore the inj pump wiring for now.
Starter easy to access? if so check if the solenoid is getting a feed from the ign switch when you turn the key to the start position.
 
Hi Kurt, welcome to the forum.
How do you know that your starter motor is ok if it won't turn the engine over?
 
Have you checked your engine to chassis earths and the earth from the battery, if it has been sat, the connections could be corroded.
 
Al2O3 said:
Hi Kurt, welcome to the forum.
How do you know that your starter motor is ok if it won't turn the engine over?
Click to expand...

Starter turns the engine when I put xtra earth from pin 86 on the starter relay to the negative terminal on the battery. The original wire from Pin 86 runs to an alarm ECU. My next task is to locate this alarm ECU. I think there is something related to the immobilizer/alarm ECU.
 
Kurt Gustafson said:
Starter turns the engine when I put xtra earth from pin 86 on the starter relay to the negative terminal on the battery. The original wire from Pin 86 runs to an alarm ECU. My next task is to locate this alarm ECU. I think there is something related to the immobilizer/alarm ECU.
Click to expand...

Is this the same immobiliser set up that the Disco1 owners alwasy have trouble with?
If so if you google spider bypass, there will be some info to help you
 
Kurt Gustafson said:
Starter turns the engine when I put xtra earth from pin 86 on the starter relay to the negative terminal on the battery. The original wire from Pin 86 runs to an alarm ECU. My next task is to locate this alarm ECU. I think there is something related to the immobilizer/alarm ECU.
Click to expand...
immobiliser spider is in the passenger seat box riveted to the front panel ,you can get the starter relay earth there and join a live to the output to injection pump to ecu is behind the instrument panel
 
lynall said:
Is this the same immobiliser set up that the Disco1 owners alwasy have trouble with?
If so if you google spider bypass, there will be some info to help you
Click to expand...
Yes, it is Lynall. He's got a 1996 300Tdi Defender and he's a 17 year old young man, keeping the Green Oval faith in Norway. A rare LZ member I reckon!
@Kurt Gustafson, this might seem obvious, but have you put new batteries in your key fob? If your landy battery and fob battery have been dead for two years then your fob and immobiliser might have lost synchronisation. There's a way to over come the fob de-activated immobiliser by using the ignition key and opening/closing the drivers door. Do you know your immobiliser code? I think there is a way of re-synchronising your fob to the immobiliser, but would have to search LandyZone or Google it.
 
@Kurt Gustafson, this might seem obvious, but have you put new batteries in your key fob? If your landy battery and fob battery have been dead for two years then your fob and immobiliser might have lost synchronisation. There's a way to over come the fob de-activated immobiliser by using the ignition key and opening/closing the drivers door. Do you know your immobiliser code? I think there is a way of re-synchronising your fob to the immobiliser, but would have to search LandyZone or Google it.[/QUOTE]

New batteries all over. The fob works with the interior lights so I dont think there is anything wrong there. I just have to follow the wire from PIN 86 on the starter relay to see if its still connected to something :)
 
MAY HELP
electrical schemes - defender 300 tdi-13.png
 
Just a thought I have in the back of my mind that the fob being next to the ignition switch deactivates the imobaliser so is the key fob on the same key ring as the ignition key as it should be. If the truck has been stored for a while have you a spare set of keys and fob which are all together on the same key ring whilst in storage. If so this could adversely affect the disarming of the imobaliser. Separate the two fobs and try again with one key and one fob on one key ring the other one out of the way.
 
you could remove the immobilisation ECU and link as diagram
300tdi spinder.png
but if you are grounding the starter relay then would assume alarm is not disabled
 
Ok guys.. starter relay works with extra ground. Starter cranks engine, but no diesel. I suspect faulty cut off solenoid an have a new one. But how to get to the solenoid? Its covered by a sort of plastic/metal cover that has three wires running into it.

Is there any way of getting to the solenoid without breaking the cover???
 
Kurt Gustafson said:
Ok guys.. starter relay works with extra ground. Starter cranks engine, but no diesel. I suspect faulty cut off solenoid an have a new one. But how to get to the solenoid? Its covered by a sort of plastic/metal cover that has three wires running into it.

Is there any way of getting to the solenoid without breaking the cover???
Click to expand...
Your fuel cut off solenoid only has a live wire going to it
Kurt Gustafson said:
Ok guys.. starter relay works with extra ground. Starter cranks engine, but no diesel. I suspect faulty cut off solenoid an have a new one. But how to get to the solenoid? Its covered by a sort of plastic/metal cover that has three wires running into it.

Is there any way of getting to the solenoid without breaking the cover???
Click to expand...
There's only one live wire going to the fuel shut off valve. Here's a picture of mine.
IMG_2117.JPG

I've never removed mine, so no idea how much fuel comes out when you remove it. You can see a hex there so it obviously unscrews. I know you've bought a new one, but have you tried a permanent live to it first? Mine doesn't have a cover on it, but I've heard of others who have a cover over that part of the fuel injection pump.
 
Al2O3 said:
Your fuel cut off solenoid only has a live wire going to it

There's only one live wire going to the fuel shut off valve. Here's a picture of mine.
View attachment 211218
I've never removed mine, so no idea how much fuel comes out when you remove it. You can see a hex there so it obviously unscrews. I know you've bought a new one, but have you tried a permanent live to it first? Mine doesn't have a cover on it, but I've heard of others who have a cover over that part of the fuel injection pump.
Click to expand...

His may be EDC in which case he has 3 wires going to it. Even so, removing the thing is situ requires a cut down 24mm spanner.

Cheers
 
Kurt Gustafson said:
Ok guys.. starter relay works with extra ground. Starter cranks engine, but no diesel. I suspect faulty cut off solenoid an have a new one. But how to get to the solenoid? Its covered by a sort of plastic/metal cover that has three wires running into it.

Is there any way of getting to the solenoid without breaking the cover???
Click to expand...
no ,you have to break it to remove the security cover its secured by shear bolts, you have 3 wires in the loom to it ,you need one ignition live wire to feed the solenoid,
 
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