J

jer_300Tdi_90

Member
Thanks for the feedback tips and help.

Engine back in, new water pump, new glow plugs necessary, have new fuel lift pump but didn’t need it.

Failure to start before required pump timing check and adjust and new glow plugs. When she fired I had a bit of racing as the cylinders would have been full of diesel from the non starts.

Now no black smoke from blown turbo, gunged up original EGR system, lots of white as probably overfuelling, it sounds like it, so I need to look that up.

Big black soot line under the white exhaust from all the soot and crap from 3 years ago limping it home up the motorway 120m with slipping clutch (new but some garage had replaced it and not adjusted the master cylinder correctly - thx Mike at Brittinia), no blow back pressure at oil fill. The chance I took in abandoned overhauled 300 tdi seems to have come good.

Clutch operating great,

Now air filter back in, recheck timing with new pin that arrived for greater accuracy and work out how to lower fuelling.

Then replace sterling arm ball joint or complete arm. Boot knackered. Then MOT and replacement rear door.

Thanks again to those who gave tips and for s all the great helpful information.

I’m savouring the moment - must be cuppa tea time 😊👍
 
STOP PRESS - it's a beer and pull it out again :(
Just before heading for tea - bit of an oil leak. I noticed a small drip from the bellhousing a few days ago. I thought dam I should have replaced the rear main seal as I had one available but I could see it had been done and made the wrong decision and left it.

The engine had been overhauled and looked well done but I don't know how long it had sat.

Thinking back now as it came together I noticed the water pump had gone really stiff. Again a new one on rebuild but it must have sat around ion a cold shed from a long while as the bearing /seal had really jammed up.

So I assume now the same has happened to the rear crank seal. When the engine was running properly oil the oil has pi55ed out and when I can bear to go and take a look i'm pretty certain it will all be from that seal and coming out through the bellhousing joint and wading plug :(

Well I did have a 5 min 'high' and all the bolts are greased up and eased up for doing it again.
 
jer_300Tdi_90 said:
STOP PRESS - it's a beer and pull it out again :(
Just before heading for tea - bit of an oil leak. I noticed a small drip from the bellhousing a few days ago. I thought dam I should have replaced the rear main seal as I had one available but I could see it had been done and made the wrong decision and left it.

The engine had been overhauled and looked well done but I don't know how long it had sat.

Thinking back now as it came together I noticed the water pump had gone really stiff. Again a new one on rebuild but it must have sat around ion a cold shed from a long while as the bearing /seal had really jammed up.

So I assume now the same has happened to the rear crank seal. When the engine was running properly oil the oil has pi55ed out and when I can bear to go and take a look i'm pretty certain it will all be from that seal and coming out through the bellhousing joint and wading plug :(

Well I did have a 5 min 'high' and all the bolts are greased up and eased up for doing it again.
Click to expand...
 
Had beer cleaned up took a better look. Slow drip from dry joint between clutch and engine rearward of the wading drain hole. So assume that’s my rear main bearing seal as it’s been apart and was dry and clean when I bolted it up.

Either poorly fitted or poor quality and dried out in storage?

2/3rd leak coming from sump pan joint along rear edge where main bearing is. Wet along the full length of that. The pan had been off and refitted with a clear looking silicone no gasket.

Mike Brittania uses hylasil 100, no gasket. I have black JB weld ultimate black 100% silicone. Go hylasil?

I saw how Mike fills bolt recess along that narrow leaking edge and does a neat pattern which I’ll follow.

Thinking break and refit sump new sealant. Give it another go and see how much improved. If good enough get MOT sorted and rolling 90 then pull out engine do rear main reinstall.
 
Get a replacement from Turners engineering, its a better job. Often with cheap ones its not the seal itself but around the housing that leaks. And yes follow Mikes suggestions.
 
tottot said:
Get a replacement from Turners engineering, its a better job. Often with cheap ones its not the seal itself but around the housing that leaks. And yes follow Mikes suggestions.
Click to expand...
Ok thx will do

Rad in but not front grill. Heavy old lump isn’t it. Would you pull engine out again or should I consider gearbox out as it’s lighter but apparently tight to do on the 90?
 
jer_300Tdi_90 said:
Ok thx will do

Rad in but not front grill. Heavy old lump isn’t it. Would you pull engine out again or should I consider gearbox out as it’s lighter but apparently tight to do on the 90?
Click to expand...

I'd pull the engine for easier/better access and they re-install very easily lining up on spigot and dowels/threads. It's horses for courses, you choose.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
Defender 300 Tdi Engine Swap
Replies
4
Views
873
jer_300Tdi_90
J
J
90 Defender 300Tdi engine swap - update & question
Replies
4
Views
1K
jer_300Tdi_90
J
J
300 Tdi engine swap story - and a few questions
Replies
13
Views
2K
doriz
doriz
J
300 Tdi Engine back in, nearly - Story and at the end Questions
Replies
0
Views
715
jer_300Tdi_90
J
Jason2
300 TDi Black smoke !
Replies
13
Views
3K
Jason2
Jason2