If it doesn't need the memory function, then surely put a whee in the ecu (throw it away) and re-wire the motors to relays & back/forward switches. So a 12v fused feed and an earth (which will be there already) and a switch pack from a donor car that didn't use electrickery such as ecu's....

That would be my way of doing it.
 
Glad to see a return to the OP after so much off-topic :(

The 4.2 LSE was only produced for a couple of years & was effectively a test bed for the forthcoming P38, particularly the longer stroke engine that became the 4.6 & the air suspension. Quite a rare beast now & I suppose attractive to those who have a use for the extra eight inches of rear legroom, but I'm not sure about today's availability of parts that are specific to the model.
+1 tbh a favorite of mine ive owned 3 in total,remember 15+ years ago whilst holidaying in cornwall parking next to one in my vogue se on a harbour carpark & wondered why it was longer than my classic ? sinse then i had to have one. fantastic space for rear passengers
 
Jaded from owning and maintaining an l322 I see.

Known here as an LSE or classic. Probably the one making the most money of the 4 door classics here.
My suggestion was to attach a drill to the worm drive and buy the wife some platform shoes. There are plenty of options for swapping them. I had a pair of manually operated Saab seats in the front of one of mine mounted on box section or steel channel.
They also had height control for the seat base.
I had thought about just finding junker with some nice manual leather seats and fabricating a mount for them. I always see the defenders with recaros in them would there be any issues with getting universal seats such as those to work? I figured the seating height would be an issue. The only issue I have with that is that I would like to keep it stockish but if it comes down to it I might just buy two universal seats like that it mod them into it. Anyone done something like that before to the classics?
 
If it doesn't need the memory function, then surely put a whee in the ecu (throw it away) and re-wire the motors to relays & back/forward switches. So a 12v fused feed and an earth (which will be there already) and a switch pack from a donor car that didn't use electrickery such as ecu's....

That would be my way of doing it.
Wouldnt I have to have a separate relay for each function making 6 in total or would I only have to use one per switch. Like one relay for moving the entire seat forward and another relay for moving it back etc? or only one relay for moving the seat forward and backward?
 
+1 tbh a favorite of mine ive owned 3 in total,remember 15+ years ago whilst holidaying in cornwall parking next to one in my vogue se on a harbour carpark & wondered why it was longer than my classic ? sinse then i had to have one. fantastic space for rear passengers
Yes there is an absolute ton of room back there
 
Wouldnt I have to have a separate relay for each function making 6 in total or would I only have to use one per switch. Like one relay for moving the entire seat forward and another relay for moving it back etc? or only one relay for moving the seat forward and backward?

I have been doing some research and it would appear the drivers seat uses a digital signal for the seat controller, so unless you want to strip out the seats and re-wire the motors, you may be on a hiding to nothing!

May be easier to either track down a replacement ecu or replace the seat with a similar coloured manual job :eek:

Another option is to PM Marty UK and ask if he could fix it, or even if he has a replacement unit?!

I recently bought a refurbished HEVAC controller for my car and it is in excellent working order. He's a bit of an electronics genius so you never know... And he goes over the pond now and then far as I kin tell ;)
 
I have been doing some research and it would appear the drivers seat uses a digital signal for the seat controller, so unless you want to strip out the seats and re-wire the motors, you may be on a hiding to nothing!

May be easier to either track down a replacement ecu or replace the seat with a similar coloured manual job :eek:

Another option is to PM Marty UK and ask if he could fix it, or even if he has a replacement unit?!

I recently bought a refurbished HEVAC controller for my car and it is in excellent working order. He's a bit of an electronics genius so you never know... And he goes over the pond now and then far as I kin tell ;)
I will PM him and see what he would charge and if he thinks it could even be repaired thanks for the info
 
I have been doing some research and it would appear the drivers seat uses a digital signal for the seat controller, so unless you want to strip out the seats and re-wire the motors, you may be on a hiding to nothing!

May be easier to either track down a replacement ecu or replace the seat with a similar coloured manual job :eek:

Another option is to PM Marty UK and ask if he could fix it, or even if he has a replacement unit?!

I recently bought a refurbished HEVAC controller for my car and it is in excellent working order. He's a bit of an electronics genius so you never know... And he goes over the pond now and then far as I kin tell ;)
Im fairly certain i will just have to get a new one this thing is pretty bad. I dont even know why the guy tried the aaa batteries after seeing this thing. what a mess
20170202_193352.jpg
 
I have been doing some research and it would appear the drivers seat uses a digital signal for the seat controller, so unless you want to strip out the seats and re-wire the motors, you may be on a hiding to nothing!

May be easier to either track down a replacement ecu or replace the seat with a similar coloured manual job :eek:

Another option is to PM Marty UK and ask if he could fix it, or even if he has a replacement unit?!

I recently bought a refurbished HEVAC controller for my car and it is in excellent working order. He's a bit of an electronics genius so you never know... And he goes over the pond now and then far as I kin tell ;)
What's happened to your hevac mine has started recently where if you put it in the 4th fan speed option and you hit a bump or something it would just shut off then after a while it would start blowing again and now the 4th option doesn't work at all and the 3rd option has to be put halfway between the 3rd and 4th haha
 
Looks like most of the damage was done by wet wattery water :eek:

If you are handy with a soldering iron, a small one, you could replace some of those circuits with small guage wire. I've done things like this in the past, soldering things that were broken and they ended up looking like an explosion in a components factory, but they worked.

I rather think "Dick" used a blow torch and lumps of lead off the church roof, therefore "Dick" needs a kick in the gentleman plums :mad:
 
What's happened to your hevac mine has started recently where if you put it in the 4th fan speed option and you hit a bump or something it would just shut off then after a while it would start blowing again and now the 4th option doesn't work at all and the 3rd option has to be put halfway between the 3rd and 4th haha

My car sat for 5 years without ever being started or even having the doors open. Previous to that, it had been purchased with about 60k miles and the new owner drove it with trailers attached. It lived on a farm and I rather think it had been subjected to loads of blown dust which got stuck in the AC condenser. Soon after, the engine went bang and was replaced with a brand new one somewhere before 70k miles. Not long after (I bought it with 86k on it) the owners father passed away so he took over the day to day running of the farm and the car was left parked, as said, for 5 years.

So, when I bought it, it needed a serious service, but she started 1st turn of the key, albeit attached to a jumper battery, but the fact it did start was what made up my mind for me to buy it. I found out a wee while after that it was running on 5 cylinders as mice had made a feast of the leads.

Anyway, from day one I realised the window buttons were sticky as were all the buttons on the HEVAC controller so trying to get the speed up on the motors was a hit or miss affair, there were blown bulbs and the PROGRAM button did nothing!

The replacement is a joy to look at and I can push buttons with impunity, laughing manically as I do so, ha ha ;):p:D

If you've contacted Marty UK, give him time to reply as he is one of those clever jet setting types who makes man jealous and women swoon :cool::D
 
Looks like most of the damage was done by wet wattery water :eek:

If you are handy with a soldering iron, a small one, you could replace some of those circuits with small guage wire. I've done things like this in the past, soldering things that were broken and they ended up looking like an explosion in a components factory, but they worked.

I rather think "Dick" used a blow torch and lumps of lead off the church roof, therefore "Dick" needs a kick in the gentleman plums :mad:
Alright I'm definitely a lot better with one than "dick" what size wire do you think would work best. Also I don't have much knowledge about circuit boards and the things on said circuit board but if you look in the second to last picture under the round blue thing those tan colored round things "God the explanation" what are those called and anyone know where I can get a replacemental for those said "things"
 
Those will be radial ceramic capacitors. We can get stuff like that from Maplin, but I'm guessing you have Radio Shack or an equivalent?

And the wires would be very small guage multi strand or single strand which is a bit stiffer. You can also get those from electronics stores I think this lot Mouser
 
Those will be radial ceramic capacitors. We can get stuff like that from Maplin, but I'm guessing you have Radio Shack or an equivalent?
Is there a certain watt or voltage or whatnot for them or just one of similar size
 
Is there a certain watt or voltage or whatnot for them or just one of similar size

It's always best to match like for like, but take the part along with you and show the guys what you need. See if they also sell a tube/pack of multi core flux solder, which is available (well here anyway) in a very thin guage so you don't need a million watt iron like the previous guy.

The parts where the copper tracks have been burned or scraped off, I have in the past soldered a jumper wire strand from the point where the component is fixed to the board, follow the track to the next component and soldered the other end of the strand of jumper wire to connect them. So long as you're quick you shouldn't damage the chips with too much heat.

Thing is, I don't think you have much to lose really....
 
It's always best to match like for like, but take the part along with you and show the guys what you need. See if they also sell a tube/pack of multi core flux solder, which is available (well here anyway) in a very thin guage so you don't need a million watt iron like the previous guy.

The parts where the copper tracks have been burned or scraped off, I have in the past soldered a jumper wire strand from the point where the component is fixed to the board, follow the track to the next component and soldered the other end of the strand of jumper wire to connect them. So long as you're quick you shouldn't damage the chips with too much heat.

Thing is, I don't think you have much to lose really....
Yeah very true haha alright I'm gonna try I would honestly like to fix it myself bc I'm sure it's gonna be a coupe hundred dollars to get it repaired anyways
 
Where about in Trumpton do you live then? (actually, as a kid I used to watch a tv show for kids called Trumpton, but it was good :D )

:p
 
Alabama in the most Republican district lol

Ahh, Sweet Home Alabama, one of the best songs for getting people on the dance floor (I'm a DJ among other things). I imagine you'll get some varied weather and be in need of a reliable 4x4..... So, in that case, why'd you choose a Range Rover? :p:D:eek:
 

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