What's your G clamp arrangement? Have you got the right sized pushing socket on one side and a big enough receiving socket on the other? If either is a fraction out, you'll not shift it by hand and cause damage with a big vice.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
have you got a copper or soft face hammer,if you have rest the the shaft yokes on in an open vice then hit flange down to push one cup semi out ,spin over then the other,you can then rest the uj spider across the jaws an hit shaft do do the same
neilly
Well-Known Member
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
he said he hadnt a vice that opened far enough for socket method most vices should be suitable for the method i gave it doesnt have to be a vice either
I know it's Friday night, but lets have a modicum of decorum.
AG talk any night of the week, surely!
neilly
Well-Known Member
True, this would work even on a block of wood to loosen it.
But if he had even a small vice, then he could put the g clamp in it , thus holding it securely and put a bar on ring spanner over the handle and tighten it that way.
Cheers
I've bent the toggle on G clamps doing that with a ring spanner. Don't know my own strength
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
perhaps but my way works for stubborn joints
I agree.
Cheers for the 'like', James. I do apologise for the flange quip. Unlike me, it's the drink talking
(Got the rest of the bottle to finish and so it's still going to seem funny to me for a while
)
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
nothing wrong with enjoying yourselfI agree.
Cheers for the 'like', James. I do apologise for the flange quip. Unlike me, it's the drink talking
(Got the rest of the bottle to finish and so it's still going to seem funny to me for a while
dag019
Well-Known Member
I had the same thing on my series recently, they were probably the originals. You can hammer the old ones out without using a clamp or a vice but it is stuck then you need a sacrificial socket to use as a drift as it will be wrecked when you finish. Soaking in a penetrating fluid or diesel overnight will help but may not solve the issue, it didn't for me. The method I used was to put the yoke flat on an anvil (any hard flat surface will work), but a socket that fits inside the yoke on the other side, and repeatedly hit it with a 4lb lump hammer. Eventually the bottom cup moved to become flush with the edge of the yoke. The amount of effort it was to get it to this point I then decided to cut the UJ out to make things easier. Thin angle grinder blade, carefully cut through the centre of the UJ. You may need to do several cut before you can separate the two pieces of prop shaft. Once separate you can remove the UJ pieces just leaving behind the cup. I then went back to the anvil and lump hammer to hammer each cup out through the centre.
Importantly before refitting the new UJ I thoroughly cleaned the inside of each yoke with emery paper, cleaned out the circlip channels and gave a light coating of engine oil to lubricate the new cup being pressed in. I have a very large vice so was able to press the new ones in with that, however although not recomended, if you are very careful you can refit new ones by hammering them in the same way I described to remove the old ones. I have done this at the side of the road to to continue a journey, but it is not the easiest or best way to do it. If you use a hammer to refit a UJ you need to be very careful that the needle rollers do not fall over and then sit in the bottom of the cup rather than the side. To prevent this make sure the UJ is fully seated in the cup you are hammering in, and then make sure it is held in the centre of the tow cups when you do the second so the needle roller bearings are held in place.
Thanks for all the help. What worked was putting the yoke on top of a 27mm socket, then a smaller hammer balanced on the top then Smacking that hammer with a bigger hammer. Seen that on, a YouTube video. Spent the next few hours cleaning up the yokes and propshaft then this evening putting ujs in. All has gone well bar one of the ujs axis is stiff. I've whacked that yoke bit with a big hammer but it's made no difference. Is it something I need to worry about ?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
depends how tight,you can spread the yokes with a decent sized hammer and punch,feel the end of th bearing caps if one feels bulged youve disturbed a roller and it wont last long at all
dag019
Well-Known Member
As jamesmartin has said it depends on how tight it is. It will feel very tight compared to an old worn one! But if one of the circlips is not searing properly there is possibly a problem and it is worth redoing. It is one of those things that after you have a done a couple you know how tight it needs to be and what is too slack or too stiff.
Took that side apart and redid it. Couldn't get it to a way that both ends had enough room on the clips. Unlike the other 3 axis. Did best I could and it's slightly looser not much.
Then went to grease it all but since I've never used a grease gun I dunno what I'm doing wrong.
Watched Videos where it says the nozzle clicks on the zerk fitting but mine doesn't on any of the nipples. When I try pump grease it just comes out the grease gun joints so isn't getting in. :/
Then went to grease it all but since I've never used a grease gun I dunno what I'm doing wrong.
Watched Videos where it says the nozzle clicks on the zerk fitting but mine doesn't on any of the nipples. When I try pump grease it just comes out the grease gun joints so isn't getting in. :/
dag019
Well-Known Member
If it is a very cheap grease gun the nozzle can be a very very tight fit over the grease nipple and needs a lot of force to clip into place and even more force to then remove it.
Oldseadog
Well-Known Member
NEVER, EVER, EVER HIT A HAMMER WITH ANOTHER ONE!! NEVER!! NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSANCES!!
If you don't believe me, ask at your local eye hospital, after they have carried our a multi-hour operation to try and find and remove a tiny fragment of hammer face embedded in the back of the eye!!
(Edited due to dyslexic fingers!)
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