Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
It’s part of the side panel on the seat base.
Rub it down it may look better.
Rub it down it may look better.
Discodevon
Well-Known Member
Just get a wire brush on a drill and rub it back and treat/paint it
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
manchestershire
Well-Known Member
You may find the bottom of the door striker panel has gone too, parts are available from yrm.
Easy job to do, 3 bolts on sill, 2 bolts in your picture at bottom of door striker plate.and some spot welds that will need drilling out.
Instructions on yrm's website.
Unfortunately I didn't take a photo of it finished.
Mine looked exactly the same as yours to start with.
The last picture shows the striker plate fitted, the seat box side panel replacement is the fresh piece of metal on top of the seat box.
On reflection, I may have got away with not replacing the striker plate on that (passenger) side, but the drivers side was much worse, possibly because it's a mud trap behind the fuel tank pipe. So I did change both sides of the seat box and striker plates.
Reassembled with stainless bolts to hopefully prevent it happening again.
My only gripe with the striker repair panels from yrm is that they are much thicker than what you've taken off and you are left with a noticeable ridge.
EDIT. 4 bolts on sill.
Easy job to do, 3 bolts on sill, 2 bolts in your picture at bottom of door striker plate.and some spot welds that will need drilling out.
Instructions on yrm's website.
Unfortunately I didn't take a photo of it finished.
Mine looked exactly the same as yours to start with.
The last picture shows the striker plate fitted, the seat box side panel replacement is the fresh piece of metal on top of the seat box.
On reflection, I may have got away with not replacing the striker plate on that (passenger) side, but the drivers side was much worse, possibly because it's a mud trap behind the fuel tank pipe. So I did change both sides of the seat box and striker plates.
Reassembled with stainless bolts to hopefully prevent it happening again.
My only gripe with the striker repair panels from yrm is that they are much thicker than what you've taken off and you are left with a noticeable ridge.
EDIT. 4 bolts on sill.
Last edited:
Flossie
Well-Known Member
AHH... That folded bracket bolts on to the sill channel doesn't it?
darland
Active Member
Did you put your repair panel on top of the existing, corroded strike plate? I cut mine out and so didn't end up with a ridge.
manchestershire
Well-Known Member
I cut the front skin off, and fixed the new panel to the front of the remaining layer, as per instructions on the website. The metal I removed was probably 1 to 1.5mm thick. The yrm replacement was substantially thicker ( maybe 3mm).
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
That is brilliant. How did you know I was going to start doing mine in the next couple of days??
I haven't really looked at it yet and was wondering if I was going to need to drill out the welds - if I can find my spot weld bits - just the drivers side of the seat base fortunately.
manchestershire
Well-Known Member
That is brilliant. How did you know I was going to start doing mine in the next couple of days??
I haven't really looked at it yet and was wondering if I was going to need to drill out the welds - if I can find my spot weld bits - just the drivers side of the seat base fortunately.
You would probably be best to drill the welds out, I got my spot weld bits off eBay, only a few pounds.
It made for a much neater and therefore easier job to reassemble the seat box.
It may be necessary to remove the seat box almost entirely to manoeuvre the old panel out and new one into place, and then you open up the can of worms
I did mine while rebuilding after a chassis swap, so everything was in bits anyway.
