teddykan · Sep 23, 2010

Here we go with my DIY welding repairs on my Range Rover. This is to be minimal budget as far as I shall manage, with me fabricating almost everything I need from basic materials.

I started with the big hole in the floor on the driver's side. The chassis mount here is also affected. Let's see how she goes.

Terra
teddykan
Range Rover newbie

teddykan · Sep 23, 2010

I'm using a really old MIG welder, Telwin or something, rated at 120A. The welds were done on max voltage setting and the joins on the 16swg sheet needed quite some heat for decent fusion. CO2 shielding gas helps with the extra heat input.

The thinner gauge stuff was on spot-welding mode so as to avoijd blow-through.

GRATCH · Sep 23, 2010

Have a look at this for your sills

Replacing Range Rover Sill (s) - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

kds · Sep 24, 2010

Fitted new inner/outer sills, rear cross member and a few more patches here and there on my 89 classic few years back, glad it wasnt as bad as yours, dont think I could have seen what I was welding through my tears otherwise and I thought mine was bad !

fett · Sep 24, 2010

have look at my album for my 1990 classic repairs, mind you i thought mine was bad but yours is worse!

how much you pay for her?

teddykan · Sep 25, 2010

fett said:
have look at my album for my 1990 classic repairs, mind you i thought mine was bad but yours is worse!

how much you pay for her?

Hi,
I paid £450 for her. She runs sweet now and goes well, but I had to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders; the old cylinders had shot seals as the fluid was black.

Regards,
teddykan

fett · Sep 25, 2010

you finished all that welding now then?

teddykan · Sep 26, 2010

No, not yet finished. I've in fact only just started and am posting the pics as I go along.

Ta
teddykan

teddykan · Sep 30, 2010

Here goes another bout of repair to the driver's floor. Going quite well. The A-post has detached from the sill and hence I plan to replace/repair the sill first, before lining up the A-post and secure that to something sound (i.e. a repaired sill).

teddykan

fett · Oct 1, 2010

looks like fun mate, where are you working?

zen · Oct 1, 2010

hope you dont mind me saying...i do NOT mean to sound condersending.(spelt that wrong..).you really ought to seam weld those repairs..ie no gaps..i would do both sides too.(as you are,but dont relly opon seam sealer to stop water ingress..seam sealer is poo,water will get under it..and undo all your work...)

i guess this is your first go at a rangie??blimey you could have picked a less rusty one!!!on the bright side by the time you have finished you will be quite good at welding..

have fun ..

fett · Oct 2, 2010

trouble I found is that even though you have knocked out the rust and cut it back the ****ty metal even the landy steel aint much good for seam welding, I have a 13amp murex autolynx at home and that struggeled to seam weld.

need a 4 phase lol

fanatic · Oct 2, 2010

fett said:
trouble I found is that even though you have knocked out the rust and cut it back the ****ty metal even the landy steel aint much good for seam welding, I have a 13amp murex autolynx at home and that struggeled to seam weld.

need a 4 phase lol

single phase on industrial plug will do it, 4 phase really you learn something new

fett · Oct 2, 2010

lol yeah , more power

Hamster97 · Oct 2, 2010

How much for the Granada in the first pic / first post and is that a lincoln town car in the back too?
Banger driver?

Khryztal · Oct 2, 2010

Fett me boy. My G reg was worse than yours. (and still is lol) Mind you the a panel on this one is worse than mine.

Nice to see someone rebuild a classic rather than having it crushed/stripped

fett · Oct 2, 2010

Khryztal said:
Fett me boy. My G reg was worse than yours. (and still is lol) Mind you the a panel on this one is worse than mine.

Nice to see someone rebuild a classic rather than having it crushed/stripped

I agree on all counts

they way its heading your brown one might be too

teddykan · Oct 4, 2010

Hi folks,
I'm doing this work at my friend's farm in Berkeley, Gloucestershire.

The Scorpio in the background is a 2.3 V6 (something like that). He's not selling this, nor the Lincoln, unless you look on eBay.

This is my first Range Rover but I'm cutting my teeth with welding repairs on classic (70-80s) Jaguars. The repairs to the sills will be main seams because that's structural. The floor bits are pretty thin gauge and I don't want to mend too many blow-holes.

Can you help me sort something out: sometimes on start-up the speedo, rev counter and fuel gauge don't read anything (but battery and choke warning lights come on in central dash cluster); sometimes they do. How do I trace a loose connection on these?

Regards,
teddykan

wammers · Oct 4, 2010

teddykan said:
Hi folks,
I'm doing this work at my friend's farm in Berkeley, Gloucestershire.

The Scorpio in the background is a 2.3 V6 (something like that). He's not selling this, nor the Lincoln, unless you look on eBay.

This is my first Range Rover but I'm cutting my teeth with welding repairs on classic (70-80s) Jaguars. The repairs to the sills will be main seams because that's structural. The floor bits are pretty thin gauge and I don't want to mend too many blow-holes.

Can you help me sort something out: sometimes on start-up the speedo, rev counter and fuel gauge don't read anything (but battery and choke warning lights come on in central dash cluster); sometimes they do. How do I trace a loose connection on these?

Regards,
teddykan

Think you have it the wrong way round. The sills are attached by spot welds and therefore can be re-attached by that method by drilling holes and welding through those holes into the sub surface. Any parts that are cut out to repair rust damage from a solid panel MUST be seamless welded.

Hot Fuzz · Dec 15, 2010

Is this still an on going saga, I'm waiting for the inner wing repair and rear wheelarch photos so I can copy for my own repair work.

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