Thanks for the replies chaps, I filled through the plug that would appear to be the filler/level plug.

Considering there is only 3 year between my 1988 110 and the girlfriends 1991 Defender 110 (it is a proper Defender btw) the swivel housings are differnt as hers has an obvious fill/level plug closer to the top, and has a top and bottom bearing, where as mine has the fill/level plug much lower under the stop bolt, and it uses a top Railko bushing and pin and bottom bearing!

I used EP80/90.....also from what I have read and been told the one shot grease has difficulty getting through the small hole in the Railko bush whereas the thinner oil lubes the top pin better - is what I know...thoughts on this peeps?

I did think it odd considering you pack the CV with Lith/Moly and then fill with an oil..!!

Lots and lots of series owners run swivel grease in their motors some to stop leaks others because they want to, not heard or seen any convincing stories of top pin wear that can be blamed on the grease.
Mines got it in but is early series so has cone top set up and when Ive had it apart its always a messy job with grease all over the insides so yes I reckon its fine.
What you have to bare in mind is very few people grease their props and a lot less check their swivel levels so theres a good chance the reason they arent leaking is because they are empty!

So as you have mixed the grease and oil together you now have swivel grease.
 
Yes, I think the mix of Lith/Moly and EP80/90 has created a One Shot type of lube now....

Only done a couple of miles but all feels well.

Will have to re-check the preload on the pax side swivel as when I put the wheel on, there was a minor movement of 1/2mm or so, but that simple enough to do.
 
I am a mechanic by trade & I have had the truck from new ( 2010 & 45,000 miles.It has been serviced by me after the warranty period was up.all oils & filters have been changed as per the book.
I had a problem with the rear axle pinion seal leaking but it turned out to be the axle breather pipe was nipped between the chassis & the body so it was blocked,new pipe fitted & the leak stopped I
have a new genuine seal but have not fitted.
 
Yes, let the bearings settle for a while and then take a shim out if need be. Even if they feel tight at the start there may be some loosening as they bed into position with the load and vibration of driving around.
 
That must have taken a while as there is only a small hole in the top bush!

If you take the pin out there's a gap between ball and housing that you now have access to. Grease poured into that gap will work its way down around the ball and get pushed off into the housing as you steer.
 

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