snotmonster
Member
Thanks guys.
I've already removed the roof and when I get a chance I'll remove the sides and cappings to expose any more horrors (cos more horrors = more £££s)
I too have thought about fueling from the rear, to the tank under the driver's seat via a pipe of some sort but nah, not for me...
I'm gonna sleep on it.
Plenty of over jobs to be getting on with, with this one.
Even considering "altering" one of those nearly new tubs to suit my purposes, but we'll see.
Cheers,
Snotty.
I've already removed the roof and when I get a chance I'll remove the sides and cappings to expose any more horrors (cos more horrors = more £££s)
I too have thought about fueling from the rear, to the tank under the driver's seat via a pipe of some sort but nah, not for me...
I'm gonna sleep on it.
Plenty of over jobs to be getting on with, with this one.
Even considering "altering" one of those nearly new tubs to suit my purposes, but we'll see.
Cheers,
Snotty.
Good luck, Snotty. Share your thoughts once you've had them, we'll be interested.
alexc2701
Active Member
I've rebuilt my 90 pretty similar to yours. Went from a v8 to a 300tdi though, new chassis and basically whole new body. Tdci bulkhead and td5 body. Rear tank. I think chassis wise you're safe on points as it's a new for old replacement. Not a modification. Like if I replaced my suspension be okay but I stupidly did 2" lift so that loses points. Body wise I think be same. But at the end of the day they won't see oh it's got a rear tank must be dodgy. Heavy mods they might notice but I think as long as it is MOT able they aren't likely to look in too much detail. I. Kept the old chassis number plate off mine gana rivet on to new galv one didn't think about engine number stupidly. If I was you I'd fit rear tank. Mot tester isn't gana spot it. Then just contact dvla say changed engine put new number and colour if you change. All I'm going to do
Either that or you're in the realms of registering it on a q plate. It's kinda grey areas since they say new for old swaps okay. Does that mean a new 200tdi tub only? Or td5 tub acceptable if you get me. Isn't like you're making your own
snotmonster
Member
Thanks for the reassurance alexc2701
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there additional chassis brackets to hold a rear fuel tank that exist on modern defender 90's that I wont necessarily have on mine? Or are they all built the same? ....Got this one from Richards Chassis.
I used to have a 110 CSW (sadly stolen and torched) on which we did a rear x-member change and of course that meant dropping out the tank. But it was so long ago I cant remember the fixings. Getting old mate.
Snotty.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there additional chassis brackets to hold a rear fuel tank that exist on modern defender 90's that I wont necessarily have on mine? Or are they all built the same? ....Got this one from Richards Chassis.
I used to have a 110 CSW (sadly stolen and torched) on which we did a rear x-member change and of course that meant dropping out the tank. But it was so long ago I cant remember the fixings. Getting old mate.
Snotty.
body tub etc don't loose points ,,you can put a mini body on a land rover chassis it will still be registered as a land rover,std springs for plus 2 inch springs won't alter points as its like for like change, from leaf to coils thats where the change affects you I've been into it with vosa in the past ,,,,,,anyway most lannys are a" triggers broom" after 20 plus years lol .
alexc2701
Active Member
Yes the rear sections differ slightly I believe you can add the brackets onto an older chassis for the rear tank; some have both front and rear tanks for long hauls I know some people who use Richards for 200tdi have had front tanks and the fixings for rear tank when built.
I'd take the rear tank option purely cos it's alot easier to find good condition bodies for the newer models. And the idea of a long pipe for front tank with rear filler doesn't appeal. You could also buy a new body and use a fuel filler repair section to make a front filling point on it and then either chop out and blank or leave the rear filler. Maybe use it for something else storage? Not sure what you're gana use for
alexc2701
Active Member
That's good I was lead to believe any spec away from the standard is less points. I.e 2 inch kit. I think I'd get away with it on points system saying it's mostly standard parts but newer
Same for the snotty. They don't check into things like that on the off chance anyway
snotmonster
Member
DaveW
Member
When I built the 100" shown in my profile pic I wanted it on the RRC reg plate, dvla said no because I cut the rear off and put a defender 90 rear cross member on it. What was a no go for them was not the change of bulkhead outriggers etc but the change in chassis dimensions. If it wasn't for that it would have passed the points system and kept the original RRC plate
If I remember correctly a direct replacement of part 'like for like' is acceptable and doesn't lose points but change of a key part loses points (such as your engine change).
If I remember correctly a direct replacement of part 'like for like' is acceptable and doesn't lose points but change of a key part loses points (such as your engine change).
alexc2701
Active Member
I think it was well on the one I saw, but I'd imagine you could adapt it for bolt on if galv. There's a few threads of people putting td5 tanks on as "auxiliary" tanks if you search on forums. Think only major change is you need either a td5 or custom exhaust as the silencer on older ones sits where the tank is? I fitted a td5 s/s exhaust to mine. Some have done side exits and alsorts though. You could probably make your own brackets if you have the bits. My chassis was already set up to take the tank whereas yours be an addition. Doesn't sound that hard from thread I just looked at though
@DaveW that's good to hear yet again. I wonder if my bulkhead swap will do me too since its a 2012 bulkhead on a tdi. They're pretty diffirent. Only newer though.... haha I'm not that worried moter won't look and engine alone leaves plenty of points. It's like that brush you've had for years with only 5 new handles and 6 brush heads
@DaveW that's good to hear yet again. I wonder if my bulkhead swap will do me too since its a 2012 bulkhead on a tdi. They're pretty diffirent. Only newer though.... haha I'm not that worried moter won't look and engine alone leaves plenty of points. It's like that brush you've had for years with only 5 new handles and 6 brush heads
K14
Well-Known Member
Don't be worried about cutting out sections of aluminium rot, and glueing/ pop riveting in repair sections. If done correctly it will be stronger than new. I've used YRM repair sections, and my defender is now better than original spec.
When i removed the rear inward seats, I filled the mounting holes in the tub by glueing in some patches with chemical metal from behind.
If the repair is visible you can patch from behind,glue, and use countersunk pop rivets. Then finish with a smear of filler.
Don't think it's a bodge, as a lot of modern race car chassis are made from glued bonded aluminium sections.
When i removed the rear inward seats, I filled the mounting holes in the tub by glueing in some patches with chemical metal from behind.
If the repair is visible you can patch from behind,glue, and use countersunk pop rivets. Then finish with a smear of filler.
Don't think it's a bodge, as a lot of modern race car chassis are made from glued bonded aluminium sections.
