Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
Sat in it, your vehicle is right hand drive
Landrover77
Member
Thanks Marmaduke, there are various brackets that are marked Up Right / Left etc, i was just wondering how this is viewed, yep my SWB is right hand drive.
Landrover77
Member
GEARBOX IN!!! super pleased.
all just loosely bolted up at moment to test fit.
then test fitted the bulk head. bit of filling of new Galv to get bolts through but fitted super easy - was expecting a struggle.
will be changing a few nuts to Nylocks on final install
Any One Spot any Issues so far?
all just loosely bolted up at moment to test fit.
then test fitted the bulk head. bit of filling of new Galv to get bolts through but fitted super easy - was expecting a struggle.
will be changing a few nuts to Nylocks on final install
Any One Spot any Issues so far?
Landrover77
Member
Bit of Sunshine so thought i would drag the Rear tub out.....
any suggestions for tidying things up. i don't want to get into ripping it apart too much.
i plan on sanding & brush painting with Paintman Paints.
any suggestions for tidying things up. i don't want to get into ripping it apart too much.
i plan on sanding & brush painting with Paintman Paints.
Landrover77
Member
Next Dumb question, How do i clean / polish this?
Landrover77
Member
doing a Soak in Brake cleaning Fluid first then just picked up some Brass Wire brush from screwfix
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
YRM has some nice shiny bits, where the tub rear bolts to chassis looks over tatty and needs attention even if just popping on some reinforcing plates
https://yrmit.co.uk/product-category/series-2-3-swb/rear-tub-series-2-3-swb/
https://yrmit.co.uk/product-category/series-2-3-swb/rear-tub-series-2-3-swb/
Webley1991
Well-Known Member
When I rebuilt my Series 3, the mouting holes at the front of the tub were corroded similar to the ones in this photo.
I cut some lengths of flat steel strip, if I remember correctly 3 x 40mm and drilled holes through them to match the tub mounting holes. I also drilled some extra holes in the tub and steel strip to bolt to the strip in place through the good tub metal.
There is plenty of room under the tub for the steel strips and bolts. I spray painted them black before bolting in place then coated everything with underseal. Hopefully they should last until whenever the next rebuild may be.
I cut some lengths of flat steel strip, if I remember correctly 3 x 40mm and drilled holes through them to match the tub mounting holes. I also drilled some extra holes in the tub and steel strip to bolt to the strip in place through the good tub metal.
There is plenty of room under the tub for the steel strips and bolts. I spray painted them black before bolting in place then coated everything with underseal. Hopefully they should last until whenever the next rebuild may be.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
When I replaced my tub floor the corrosion was worst where the steel crossmembers touched the Ally top hat Sections and Floor, although the steel is stronger you won’t get the electrolytic corrosion with more ally or put an insulator between the two metals , I think yrm mention this on their how to videos
Landrover77
Member
Some Engine rebuild worries,
my engine doesn't have Head Bolts is this an issue, should i find some?
the Haynes manual talks about End float on the Camshaft - just refitted it and put the retainer plat on. the camshaft still moves backwards... i haven't yet fitted oil pump & Distributer shart stuff. will this be ok?
my engine doesn't have Head Bolts is this an issue, should i find some?
the Haynes manual talks about End float on the Camshaft - just refitted it and put the retainer plat on. the camshaft still moves backwards... i haven't yet fitted oil pump & Distributer shart stuff. will this be ok?
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
If it was running ok without them shouldn’t be a problem
I think this is usual and firms up When the cam wheels on
You need to get a pdf copy of the workshop manual it’s got all the information on thread size as an introduction.
