With the sun shining took the tarp of so I could get the rear windows done. As I said earlier, bought some butyl tape and wanted to try sealing the windows with it, to try and get a decent finish. Trying to stick that tape to the window opening lip was a nightmare. Then I thought, hand on, I’m being a complete spanner about this. Placed the glass back into the frame then using a felt pen, drew the opening on the glass. Sticking the tape to the glass was easy although don’t let this butyl tape touch itself.... bonds immediately to each other.. hence the small cut out bit in the bottom picture. Overlapped the drawn line by the tape by about 3 mmm, planning to Stanley it off once all installed. One word of advice, careful not to stretch the tape bending it round corners, try to keep it fat so it makes a better seal.
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Putting the windows back is was easy, although I had to use some extra tape inside between the retainers and the glass, so extra pressure was applied when screwing in the retainer bars. Trimmed off the extra 3mm (ish) with a new Stanley blade and directed some water at the new seal. Worked a treat, waterproof and I reckon, it’s a neat job... cheap too.
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Onto the rear door glass today. Put the glass in loose to see how it fitted..... not good. There are some raised edges in the door frame meaning the glass was well away from the metal at some points (enough to fit corrugated cardboard in the gap). So decided to pinch the butyl tape together (time consuming and very boring) to make it half width but twice thickness. Even with this didn’t have much hope for success but carried on regardless. Because the tape was half width there wouldn’t be enough to trim afterwards so marked the door frame onto the glass very accurately and fed the tape exactly onto the line. Used some rubber strips between the glass and the retainers to give more pressure and hey presto, it all looked good and waterproof. I was surprised but happy with the result, even though the tape protruded slightly more than I wanted.
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Door done and dusted, although in time reckon I’ll end up fitting a tailgate. Wasn’t planning on doing much in the back, but once I had a proper look, it became obvious that there was a fair amount of corrosion; there used to be foam ‘seats’ in the back that I reckon just stored salt water and hidden from view, that salt water went to work. Started by just scraping all the ‘bubbles’ off but quickly realised that I needed to get serious, so out came the angle grinder etc to get the rubbish off.
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With the back empty, I thought I’d see if I could salvage a couple of rear seats from a big box of bits. From the four seats I had, it was easy to make two good/decent seats and with more work, could’ve made three. But for four I would have needed to spend money so settled on two seats. Took everything back to metal, primed and painted sprayed etc. Put heat shrink on the folding bar (it was fairly pitted from rust) and new screws and bolts throughout. Got the back tub painted and installed the two seats closest to the rivers cab. Made new straps from an old rucksack strap and ordered new “lift the dot” clips online. Rubber mat on the floor..... All in all, very happy with the look.
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By my reckoning, that’s the back done. So moving onto the front will be my next major undertaking. Before that, decided to take a wee while to just potter with smaller bits. First in the list is old and scabby badges.
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Looking in the cab, it’s quite scabby. The passenger seat box is rusty and rotted through on a couple of small points. All the panels covering the gearbox etc were rusty and needing looked at; the only thing looking Ok was the Fairey bracket I made last year, from right angle brackets and rubber mat. Time to strip the lot out and get some stuff back to bare metal.
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You may see in the last pictures I have no gaiter for the hand brake. Looking on Google and forums, it seems the replacement gaiter is quite poor and need replacing.....often. So, decided to make my own. The photo showing it in situ was me just checking my hole positioning before i got filing. Painting and and other stuff to follow.
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That's a lovely job. I really like doing stuff like that. I've just done a similar thing with the collar that holds the steering relay under the front cross member. Old one was ruined, standard new replacement ones are poor, fancy CNC replacement ones cost the earth. So make one. Great stuff.

I'm really enjoying your project. Keep going.
 
That's a lovely job. I really like doing stuff like that. I've just done a similar thing with the collar that holds the steering relay under the front cross member. Old one was ruined, standard new replacement ones are poor, fancy CNC replacement ones cost the earth. So make one. Great stuff.

I'm really enjoying your project. Keep going.
Hi Steve, cheers man.... nice to hear. I’ve never done anything like this before and sometimes, the enjoyment is matched by frustration. But, hopefully, we’ll get there. It’s a great lockdown distraction though.
 
Even more impressive then. It can get frustrating at times. I'm doing a series 3. Here's a link to mine in case seeing any of my many mistakes helps you to avoid them. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/steves-unexpected-series-3-rebuild.292955/
If you do get really stuck with anything there is always someone on here that will have a suggestion. Keep going mate, it looks great to me.
Just a a very quick gander at your thread (brew break from mowing the grass). It looks so nice from the first pic but oooph, that chassis. Fair play to you mate.....that would’ve been too much for me. My purchase criteria was this:
1. Bulkhead not tooooooo bad (within reason).
2. Had to have a galv chassis.
The rest I was willing to learn as I go.
 
Just a a very quick gander at your thread (brew break from mowing the grass). It looks so nice from the first pic but oooph, that chassis. Fair play to you mate.....that would’ve been too much for me. My purchase criteria was this:
1. Bulkhead not tooooooo bad (within reason).
2. Had to have a galv chassis.
The rest I was willing to learn as I go.
You're a far more sensible man than me. Your way is far better. When it came to buying I just got over excited and carried away. I've had plenty of time to think about that since. :rolleyes:
 
Found this front bit..... apron perhaps? It was tired and the bolt holes had rotted away. I was planning to ignore it but my Father in Law reckoned it’d look the part fitted. So, usual story.... back to metal, primed and painted. To get over the problem of the rotted bolt holes, made two wee flag looking bits of stainless, riveted them on with 3 x 4.8mm Rivets each side, primed painted and fitted. By ‘eck my-law was right..... it was worth the effort I reckon.
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With all the gearbox tunnel stripped out lots of grinding back to metal and getting rust inhibitor on was the priority for a day. Then, the usual few coats of paint. Ordered a new gaiter for the hi/low selector which looks just as crap as the last one I ordered just last year so not holding much hope that this one will last any better. Anyhoo, here’s where were at. PS. The bracket I made for the handbrake..... I might swap out the rubber for a brushes at some point... just not now.
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I mentioned earlier that the seat box was rather rusty, to the point that there was a couple of points that had rotted through. Scrubbed the thing inside and out to remove all but the good. Then basically put layer after layer of thick rust inhibitor, day after day. Looks grand now.... wee bit of rubber mat and hey presto, we have a nice storage area.
Not going to bother painting it green; the fetching pink colour will remind me how poorly it once was. Fitted neoprene rubber around the edge of the sliding cover to stop it rattling (needs downward pressure to lock it in place now) so that’s one annoying noise dealt with.
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