I've found some in a site called limara. Not sure if it's French. My thoughts are, if the caps are missing are they bleeding fuel up through the needle tube? But then it's running rich already and needing the choke?
It is is possible, however with the choke on it wants more fuel, sounds like it's running lean myself.
 
If the caps are missing then so are the damper rods and this will allow piston to open unregulated and make it very rich. The tubes are supposed to be filled with oil aswell.
 
Thats true, but it won't idle either without it.
The story is, I don't know the story... I'm reluctant to reset or move anything without a little more knowing and the tools. So I'm fishing until my reel burns baby!!!
Have you lifted the dashpot/needle with the engine running?
 
I've lifted very slightly each piston in return to get a reaction but not a great deal of disturbance happens apart from a hicup...
A rule of thumb is if the mixture is correct the engine speed should rise slightly for a moment, then return again to normal.

If it rises and stays fast the mixture is far too rich.

If the engine dies when the pin is lifted, it is too weak
 
A rule of thumb is if the mixture is correct the engine speed should rise slightly for a moment, then return again to normal.

If it rises and stays fast the mixture is far too rich.

If the engine dies when the pin is lifted, it is too weak
Got it, I'm writing this down...
 
If the caps are missing then so are the damper rods and this will allow piston to open unregulated and make it very rich. The tubes are supposed to be filled with oil aswell.
The caps and damper are in. Just no caps in the float bowls. Number 59.
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Got it, I'm writing this down...
Wonder if that Gunsons thing is still around that replaces a plug and allows one to see the colour of the flame in the cylinder.
Still got all this stuff and love using it. To me it is such a shame, or even funny, that what to my generation and many before seemed to be delivered with mother's milk now has to be explained to the younguns!
 
Wonder if that Gunsons thing is still around that replaces a plug and allows one to see the colour of the flame in the cylinder.
Still got all this stuff and love using it. To me it is such a shame, or even funny, that what to my generation and many before seemed to be delivered with mother's milk now has to be explained to the younguns!
I've got the gunson tool. It worked wanders on a 1952 armstrong siddely I did. That was just the one carb. Thankfully. That's the next thing. Nice suggestion. ;)
 
Are there vacuum ports after the carbs ? If so get two vacuum gauges so you can measure them both at same time & see any impact of either adjustment. Also check gauge calibration by using a T-piece & single vacuum feed. Double check all the mechanical adjustments are the same before starting, and replace any old oil from the dampers with the correct viscosity.

Last time I did twin carbs was on my Rover SD1 V8, which was SU not Stromberg, but the process should be basically the same. Preset the mixture screw first. If the jets & floats are correctly set, you should now be able to get the engine to warm up & idle without choke. Then go through the process of adjusting idle & mixture.
 
In my experience, with SUs, and therefore maybe others, once they have done a high mileage, the throttle spindle bearings wear, so you can set them up to tickover fine, well more or less, but on acceleration they fu ck up. :(
So you have to either fix them or compromise! There are lots of bodgy type fixes. Lots of fun!
Now then!
Who's for plug cuts!:):):)
 
Are there vacuum ports after the carbs ? If so get two vacuum gauges so you can measure them both at same time & see any impact of either adjustment. Also check gauge calibration by using a T-piece & single vacuum feed. Double check all the mechanical adjustments are the same before starting, and replace any old oil from the dampers with the correct viscosity.

Last time I did twin carbs was on my Rover SD1 V8, which was SU not Stromberg, but the process should be basically the same. Preset the mixture screw first. If the jets & floats are correctly set, you should now be able to get the engine to warm up & idle without choke. Then go through the process of adjusting idle & mixture.
I used to use 2 colour tuner kits one on each of the carbs on my tr7 to set up and balance, I have not seen them for years but used to find them great
 

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