GingerPuss

Active Member
Hi folks

Can anyone give me a good reason why I shouldn't tap into the 12V supply that goes to the courtesy light - to power a dashcam at the top-middle of my windscreen?

12v_1.jpg

12v_2.jpg


By tapping into the purple wire and black Earth wire?

Cheers
 
The only problems I can see about using that power feed for a dash-cam might be:-
  1. The camera would be powered at all times, 24 hrs a day, even with the ignition off. so there might be a slight drain on the battery which day to day might not cause a problem, but it could become an issue if the vehicle is used infrequently or the battery is on the bones of its a*se.
  2. Provided that the dashcam uses 12 volts for power, many seem to use a 5 volt USB type feed.
The circuit itself is fused at 15 Amps (F20 in the passenger compartment fuse board) so for a small camera it shouldn't be a problem.
 
Thanks folks
I was actually going to put a cigar lighter socket up there so I can disconnect the dashcam to stop the battery being drained. I asked a similar question about the redundant ACE sensor a while back and Sierrafery suggested I short out pins on a connector...but I don't even have the unit it goes into (I have a basic base model with only electric windows as a luxury from new).
 
There's a green / black up there that feeds the interior mirror an (AFAIK) is only live with ignition on. I've used it for the display for my wireless reversing sensors.
 
There's a green / black up there that feeds the interior mirror an (AFAIK) is only live with ignition on. I've used it for the display for my wireless reversing sensors.

Yup. This is what i've used for mine... if you take down the front headlining trim panel with the lights, map shelves, etc behind there are various wires, including an ignition live.

Two options then... one is to wire in a 12v socket. A neater option would be to buy one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/1920...=1006502&device=c&campaignid=707291931&crdt=0

then simply bury that above the trim (assuming you dont have the electric sunroof there's a huge void behind the plastic) and then run the cable down to your dashcam.
 
Rather than put a cigar 12v socket. Up their , a usb 12v socket is looks much smarter mounted up there , but it dose depend on what plug you have on the end of your dash cam plus they can be smaller on the back when fitting in a tighter space
 
Thanks for the ideas
Have mounted a new cigar lighter socket with a flush twin USB insert (so can be used for just about any accessory). I fed a cable behind the headlining and pillar into the fusebox to fuse 15 (cigar lighter feed) rather than splicing into wires up top.
 
Thanks for the ideas
Have mounted a new cigar lighter socket with a flush twin USB insert (so can be used for just about any accessory). I fed a cable behind the headlining and pillar into the fusebox to fuse 15 (cigar lighter feed) rather than splicing into wires up top.

You got any piccies ??? I like piccies.

Cheers
 
Someone read my mind. Just fitted a dash cam into Angies Abarth and this weekends job is the Disco.
Thanks for the advice chaps.
Btw, can't you just unplug the dash cam when it's not being used to save battery drain? That's what I do in the T5 :)

Tim
 
Someone read my mind. Just fitted a dash cam into Angies Abarth and this weekends job is the Disco.
Thanks for the advice chaps.
Btw, can't you just unplug the dash cam when it's not being used to save battery drain? That's what I do in the T5 :)

Tim

That involves remembering to unplug it, and remembering to plug it back in when you get in the car.

Having it on an ignition live feed makes that process automatic.
 
I have a couple of devices which require a +5 volt USB type power feed in my D2; the forward facing dashcam (a mirror mounted type) and the HUD GPS speedo.
I bought one of those extension cigarette lighter sockets with built-in USB outlets included and mounted it on the inside of the drop-down flap below the steering column with some double sided adhesive pads.
I powered that by splicing into the wiring for the cigarette lighter socket on the facia so that it is then turned on and off by the ignition system. I was then able to easily connect into the vehicle supply at +12 volts or +5 volts for USB with no problems at all and everything is out of sight.
The USB power feed for my mobile phone (only used as a .mp3 player, never as a phone!) is powered from the DAB adapter, also mounted behind the drop down flap.
 
You got any piccies ??? I like piccies.
Cheers

Your wish is....

I decided to do it properly. I fed a wire from the fusebox using a replacement blade fuse with a soldered wire and bullet connectors (Cigar lighter socket circuit - so on only with ignition). I routed the wire up the pillar and inside the headlining to the blank switch plate (a benefit of having a base model with no switches there). I carefully cut out the hole for the new lighter socket and crimped on the wire and attached the earth to the light earthing plate with a ring connector.

The Blade fuse with breakout wire (evailable from eBay):
elec1.jpg


Blue wire routed down from the A-Pillar (yes, I know it should be red, but I had no red wire left and lots of blue wire):
elec3.jpg


Basic socket with cover:
elec4.jpg


Socket without cover:
elec5.jpg


Key in...turned to first position and there is power - confirmed by my socket voltmeter:
elec6.jpg


Twin USB plug inserted - now I just need to buy the dashcam:
elec7.jpg


Since my preferred dashcam, and my existing SatNav use statndard USB power from a USB Mini cable, I sourced a couple on eBay that are very short (30cm and 50cm) to minimise having loads of unused cable.

The breakout blade fuse can be bought from Halfrauds or HERE on eBay
The cigar socket voltmeter/thermometer can be bought HERE
The cigar socket itself came from HERE
Short USB=>USB Mini cables HERE and HERE
 
@GingerPuss

Very nice, Thanks for the info, got me thinking now......LOL

Cheers

If you haven't removed the A-pillar trim along the side of the windscreen, it just pops off with a plastic lever (held in with spring clips). I didn't disturb the headlining to route the wire. I slid a long cable tie from the centre (switch plate removed) until it appeared by the A-pillar. I sellotaped the wire to the cable tie and just pulled it back.
 
very neat job.

I like the idea of the voltmeter/thermometer... although i already have a cluster of 3 carling switches in that panel (installed for extra lights) and not sure where else i'd put the voltmeter

I've got the component to wire in so I can have a 12v feed up there - mine's just to be a short length of wire coming down from the back of that panel down to the dashcam. I'll probably also look at putting something similar in at the back of the dashboard for the satnav, freeing up the main 12v socket for the phone chargers etc.
 

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