T

TMS8895

Member
my 62 Plate 110 decided to throw a wobble today when I was warming it up: engine on and doors closed, All of a sudden I hear the locks go (I'm outside) and that was it! Locked out of my own vehicle with the engine running.....luckily had a spare key and had to use the physical key to unlock it. First time this has happened, had some electrical work done on the lights and had rear extra lights put in last week but thats it.
Is this a common thing? What's the issue and more importantly anyone know what the fix is please? Luckily I was at home so I could go and get the spare key but if I'd been away that would have been a major drama.
Any ideas?
 
mine did this a while back, like you i had to use the spare key as the fob wouldnt work, then it wouldnt lock with ether set, fuse had blow, changed it and it hasnt done it again so far.
 
Vibration can sometimes cause the door button to drop if its spring has broken or is weak. [assuming similar to older models.]
 
Only done it the once so no idea what the score is, when its running I now just leave the door open which isnt ideal but better than getting locked out and being a Utility there arent many windows I can crawl through to unlock it.
 
Ok so the car decided to do it again, this time ignition was off (no key in) and all of a sudden was locking down. Key fob wouldn't work and neither would the key. Luckily the door was open so I was able to manually bush the button up (it went down on its a own a couple of times) so am now looking to change the fuse. Question is-which fuse do I need to change please? can't find any mention of central locking or doors in the manual, only the alarm. Which one is it please?
 
These attachments might help. You will read that the central door locks work via the alarm control unit. The electrical diagrams will help you trace the power feeds from the fuses (in the secondary fuse box under the steering wheel) to the control unit. I would start by looking at fuse 9. Before working on the alarm module it is normally necessary to disconnect the battery within 15 seconds of turning the ignition on (dash lights on) and then off again. This stops the alarm from going off. So doing the ignition on - off and pulling the fuse within 15 seconds should have the same affect (I think, never done it myself) of not setting the alarm off.
 

Attachments

  • Defender MY12 Workshop Manual (dragged).pdf
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  • Defender MY12 Workshop Manual (dragged) 2.pdf
    30.3 KB · Views: 216
  • Defender MY12 Electric Wiring Diagrams (dragged).pdf
    104 KB · Views: 198
  • Defender MY12 Electric Wiring Diagrams (dragged) 2.pdf
    101.9 KB · Views: 191
  • Defender MY12 Electric Wiring Diagrams (dragged) 3.pdf
    102.3 KB · Views: 253
  • Defender MY12 Electric Wiring Diagrams (dragged) 4.pdf
    101.9 KB · Views: 276
Wimblowdriver said:
These attachments might help. You will read that the central door locks work via the alarm control unit. The electrical diagrams will help you trace the power feeds from the fuses (in the secondary fuse box under the steering wheel) to the control unit. I would start by looking at fuse 9. Before working on the alarm module it is normally necessary to disconnect the battery within 15 seconds of turning the ignition on (dash lights on) and then off again. This stops the alarm from going off. So doing the ignition on - off and pulling the fuse within 15 seconds should have the same affect (I think, never done it myself) of not setting the alarm off.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up, there was me thinking it was a simple fuse out new on in job!
 
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