S

SimonBrown

Member
I started out with a quest to find a 90 with a 200TDI or 300TDI with a rotten chassis and bulkhead. The kind of thing that was ripe for a galvanised replacement.

After kicking a few tyres I ended up with an 1987 E reg 110 fitted with a Isuzu 2.8l turbo. Initial thoughts are the chassis might be worth continuing with, and the bulkhead has only minor patches and looks worth saving. Last MoT was 4 years ago and its been dry stored since then.

So there you go...hold the "ideal" lightly and something else comes along.

With a day or so of work I reckon it would pass an MOT. But thats not the route its taking...its heading into the workshop for a proper strip back to the chassis and a total inspect and repair as necessary - full overhaul - of everything.

In 2.5 years its 40 years old and qualifies as tax exempt and this date is the target. We shall see.

20250123-0005.jpg


Its had 4 paint jobs - colour changes recorded by DVLA. Original could be that nice blue colour (bulkhead) or not...

20250123-0002.jpg


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Its all there and running/working.
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Some funky previous owner changes that will carry over...somewhere a pub landlord has a pool table two balls short of a full rack.

20250123-0014.jpg

Even the stereo works! Dashboard Buddah will carry on criusing too.

I will see if I can keep this blog up to date and share the highs and lows...plus pick into the collective knowledge that persists here.

Daunting? Yes...but I was trained by the MoD to maintain/repair/overhaul everything from a motorbike to a Challenger MBT, so the technical stuff is fine. Its the duration and sheer amount of work involved. But if I am being honest, its the process and joy of seeing stuff come back to life that is the real pleasure here.
 
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Looks good, love the rear door.... freaky gear stick knobs :), afraid it will never legally be tax exempt. To be registered as heritage it needs to be original, the engine swap will be in breach of that.

www.gov.uk

Historic (classic) vehicles: MOT and vehicle tax

Vehicle tax exemptions and MOT exemptions for vehicles built or first registered before 1984.
www.gov.uk www.gov.uk

Although re-reading that I may be talking utter bollox as it looks like its just the MOT bypass which requires no major changes so you could well be ok.
 
ER1C said:
Looks good, love the rear door.... freaky gear stick knobs :), afraid it will never legally be tax exempt. To be registered as heritage it needs to be original, the engine swap will be in breach of that.

www.gov.uk

Historic (classic) vehicles: MOT and vehicle tax

Vehicle tax exemptions and MOT exemptions for vehicles built or first registered before 1984.
www.gov.uk www.gov.uk
Click to expand...
Ah...bugger...righty ho...thus the value of posting stuff...I do not feel inclined to seek out a 2.5NAD anytime soon so will cough up/get the tester's opinion sorted.
 
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Nahh it looks fine, you will still need an MOT but the tax will be free... Be interested to see how you get on. I have a J reg (92) in similar condition which is awaiting restoration....still umming and ahhing over full chassis swap or fix it as is... I suspect nobody would ever know or care btw about the registration.....
 
Looks like a great project. If you swap the chassis for a nice shiny galvy one, you know it’ll be good for a long time to come. And it looks like the great basis for an overland truck.

Let us know how you get on.
 
I can't quite make out the serial number of the gearbox, but at some point its been fitted with an R380 gearbox, and the transfer case has a serial number that indicates it started life in a Range Rover or Discovery 1. The rear axle is also not stock as it has discs, not drums, and 87 would be too early for these?

In my other life I run a company that teaches folks how to record and preserve the world around us using something called photogrammetry. So the first job was to record it in glorious 3D:

Screenshot 2025-01-25 at 09.05.56.png


Photogrammetry struggles with A class car body surfaces - too perfect and no texture - and glass. Thankfully the A class surfaces are in short supply here.

You can see the model here:
3D Model of the 110

Its scaled, so measurements should be close to the real world. This has an applicaiton in reverse engineering, something I used to make a new flywheel cover (now graded unobtainum) for a Yam TY250:

Reverse engineering Yamaha spares

Its a bit early for thinking what might be needed. But I will create a little 3D model of every stage of dissassembly, if only to look at later when trying to remember how it all came apart.
 
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The approach angle of the drive meant there was an interference fit between roof and garage door.

I wonder if this is a bad omen? Does the landy really want to be restored? And if not will it fight me every step?

20250129-0001.jpg

Letting the rear tyres down solved this one and the landy slid into the garage.

20250129-0002.jpg

With a little bit of shuffling there is room to work in the dry.

The only downside? Diesel fumes filled the kitchen and the missus was not pleased...but the landy is now in the workshop.
 
ER1C said:
Looks good, love the rear door.... freaky gear stick knobs :), afraid it will never legally be tax exempt. To be registered as heritage it needs to be original, the engine swap will be in breach of that.

www.gov.uk

Historic (classic) vehicles: MOT and vehicle tax

Vehicle tax exemptions and MOT exemptions for vehicles built or first registered before 1984.
www.gov.uk www.gov.uk

Although re-reading that I may be talking utter bollox as it looks like its just the MOT bypass which requires no major changes so you could well be ok.
Click to expand...
"I may be talking utter bollox" - indeed yes. ;)
 
SimonBrown said:
Ah...bugger...righty ho...thus the value of posting stuff...I do not feel inclined to seek out a 2.5NAD anytime soon so will cough up/get the tester's opinion sorted.
Click to expand...
You need to read the guidance online and decide for yourself, however there is nothing written or stated that it must be 100% original.

There are also 2 sides to this:

- MoT exempt
- Historic vehicle for £0/zero rate road tax

They have slightly different regs and guidelines. Read them both. The dates at which these apply are also not the same, so double check when yours will actually be eligible.

Ultimately both are a self declaration process. There are no tests or examinations. But obviously if you lie and get caught it could get pricey or maybe worse.
 
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300bhp/ton said:
There are also 2 sides to this:

- MoT exempt
- Historic vehicle for £0/zero rate road tax
Click to expand...
To me the latter is more important than the former...from a cash perspective at least.

And for all its flaws, having an MoT history is no bad thing perhaps.

Thanks for the advice. Much apprecaited.
 
Its a bit of a minefield really, but lots of gray areas.

I like this 1.

  • they are changes of a type which can be demonstrated to have been made when vehicles of the type were in production or within 10 years of the end of production
www.gov.uk

Historic (classic) vehicles: MOT exemption criteria

www.gov.uk www.gov.uk

So do you really have to seek out a 2.5NAD ;). The Isuzu may need to go, but a V8:D is within the range of acceptable I think.
Or at the very least a TDI. Does the V5 show the engine change?

J
 
marjon said:
So do you really have to seek out a 2.5NAD ;). The Isuzu may need to go, but a V8:D is within the range of acceptable I think.
Or at the very least a TDI. Does the V5 show the engine change?
Click to expand...
I have no intention of becoming the test case on this...so homework will be done. And I have some time.

The age of the Isuzu engine may be relevant. Right now, no idea but worth checking.

I do know the V8 is not going to happen. I love the exhaust note and the fact its a V8...but for many reasons diesel is the way forward.
 
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SimonBrown said:
I can't quite make out the serial number of the gearbox, but at some point its been fitted with an R380 gearbox, and the transfer case has a serial number that indicates it started life in a Range Rover or Discovery 1. The rear axle is also not stock as it has discs, not drums, and 87 would be too early for these?
Click to expand...
3D model looks cool.

As for the gearbox, that is probably a good thing. It looks to have the Defender gear selector and not a Disco one and the seat box is orange, so likely a replacement. Meaning you have the correct seatbox and transmission tunnel for an R380. You might need to check which props you have, I can't recall if they are different on an R380 too or not.

The R380 gives you better engine upgrade options. But it will prevent the easy fitting of a 200Tdi or 2.5TD or 2.5 NaD. But I don't think you'd want to do down these routes tbh.

A 300Tdi is likely to work, but you'll need to check what has happened with the mounts and engine mounts. As a 300Tdi sits in a different location enginebay-wise compared to a 200Tdi. Which may also cause issues with clearance for the power steering pump. Things like water and oil cooler hoses will also be different as will any exhaust setups.

As said to you in the other thread. I'd seriously look at a Td5 conversion. You can buy a Td5 chassis new and while you'll probably need to change the gearbox input shaft (Ashcroft Transmissions can do this for you). You'd have most of the bits to make it work bar things like rads, intercooler and pipe work (and the engine/ECU). But all can be sourced. And you could easily make it look factory fit.

The R380 also opens up an easier swap to something like a BMW/Range Rover M57 engine. There are conversion kits for this. Of course, you could replace the R380 too.

For the rear axle, disc conversion could be good. Standard you should have had a Salisbury drum axle. The Salisbury is a heavy duty axle and uses a Dana 60 centre. These did get a disc conversion on latter models iirc and they can be converted. Worth Googling what a Salisbury looks like and compare.

Late model Defenders used a p38 Range Rover based diff centre on a Rover axle.

A Disco/RR axle can be made to fit, which might have happened if an old Disco was scrapped to get the R380 from. Although technically the Rover axle from these isn't rated for the payload weight of a 110.
 
SimonBrown said:
This is TBC. The V5 has a number...but the number stamped on the block is covered in crud and pretty inaccessble as far as I can tell. Will know for sure once the wing is off.
Click to expand...
It'll be the displacement, V5 really doesn't care or list the make of an engine or if it has turbos or not. Just displacement and the engine number. The the Izusu is 2.8 litres instead of the factory 2.5 litres, it'll be easy to spot if its been changed or not.
 
300bhp/ton said:
A 300Tdi is likely to work, but you'll need to check what has happened with the mounts and engine mounts. As a 300Tdi sits in a different location enginebay-wise compared to a 200Tdi. Which may also cause issues with clearance for the power steering pump. Things like water and oil cooler hoses will also be different as will any exhaust setups.

As said to you in the other thread. I'd seriously look at a Td5 conversion. You can buy a Td5 chassis new and while you'll probably need to change the gearbox input shaft (Ashcroft Transmissions can do this for you). You'd have most of the bits to make it work bar things like rads, intercooler and pipe work (and the engine/ECU). But all can be sourced. And you could easily make it look factory fit.
Click to expand...
I have been mulling over what to do with the Isuzu lump.

A 200TDI or 300TDI would be a logical way to go, if (and its a big if) a swap is to be made. I will get some photos of the current engine mounts and get opinions on how much its been hacked.

Correct me if I'm wrong but a TD5 has an ECU? This TLA is not something that fills we with joy...the plan is to keep the 110 as simple and mechanical as absolutely possible and avoid electronic engine management...

All decisions for a future time methinks. Plenty to be getting on with for the moment.
 
SimonBrown said:
I have been mulling over what to do with the Isuzu lump.

A 200TDI or 300TDI would be a logical way to go, if (and its a big if) a swap is to be made. I will get some photos of the current engine mounts and get opinions on how much its been hacked.

Correct me if I'm wrong but a TD5 has an ECU? This TLA is not something that fills we with joy...the plan is to keep the 110 as simple and mechanical as absolutely possible and avoid electronic engine management...

All decisions for a future time methinks. Plenty to be getting on with for the moment.
Click to expand...
The TD5 does indeed have an ECU. But to be fair, most vehicles have for the best part of 40+ years. Even some 300Tdi’s and the V8’s had ECU’s way before the Td5. I really wouldn’t let this put you off. All you need is a diagnostic tool in your toolbox. All the oily bits work mostly the same.

The biggest difference with the Td5 is the refinement and power. Like for like tuning will result in an easy 30-50hp more with the Td5. Which makes for a more pleasant and powerful vehicle. Tdi’s are good robust engines (I have a heavily modified 200Tdi, my brother has a 200Tdi and my Uncle a 300Tdi). But they are unrefined and nosy. Ultimately I really wouldn’t be put off by having an ECU.
 
Every resto starts with the first bolt. Mine happened to be the rear propshaft UJ. I want to keep things as mobile as possible and the clunk from the rear had to go.

20250202-0002.jpg

All that rust had to go and the polywheel cleaned it up a treat. All the bits got a degrease and acid dip then a coat of that POR-15 stuff.
Not the best weather for painting but the extended drying time meant the passenger and drivers floors could be pulled up:
20250208-0003.jpg
20250208-0001.jpg
20250208-0002.jpg

So far so good. I found 1 x 10p and 1 x 20p coins in the mud stuck to the top of the outrigger.


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20250209-0001.jpg

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It makes the rest of the vehicle look...pretty shabby. But...if its coming off then its sorted before it goes back.

Plus...when the inspiration flags and the urge to skip stuff and cut corners creeps in...I can look back to what enthusiasm looked like and keep things on track.
 
Had a spare hour today so turned attention to the side locker. If there was ever a feature added that was a) designed to rust and b) designed to catch and retain crud, this modification qualifies.

At some point its been patched with stainless sheet. The trim came off first.

20250210-0002.jpg


Then the tray was removed leaving a rusted mesh. This defied removal for a bit. Until the "Not asking" slitting wheel ran up against it:

20250210-0006.jpg

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The roller door slid out leaving a hole in the side of the 110:
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The only thing worth keeping are the M5 stainless bolts, nuts and penny washers that held the stainless patch in place:
20250210-0011.jpg


The rest can go in the skip.

The bad news is this locker extends into the tub and its been cut on the top and side to accomadate and will leave a rectangular hole where one should not be.
Patch or replacement tub is a decision for later.
 
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