Hi all, just bought me a 1984 110 diesel off ebay, oh god what have i done, it was described as needing a small amount of welding for mot, well it is starting to fold in half but rather than say b****r off i paid up and now have got to re chassis it, now, i have bought a chassis off a 1991 110 and its in good nick, just some surface rust, 2 questions really for now, whats the best way to clean the inside of chassis out and what is the best way to protect it, inside and out? cheers guys, actually looking forward to seeing her back on the road
ormus
New Member
outside is easy. really good clean then wire brush and sanding, then a coat of red lead paint. finally 2 coats of black hammerite smooth paint.
inside is always a problem with an old chassis. no easy answers either. waxoil is used by many peeps. i use old engine oil! its free!
cleaning first is a real issue though. a jet wash may help a lot? but im not sure how u clean the inside properly?
inside is always a problem with an old chassis. no easy answers either. waxoil is used by many peeps. i use old engine oil! its free!
cleaning first is a real issue though. a jet wash may help a lot? but im not sure how u clean the inside properly?
Grippa
New Member
Trouble with hammerite is, until it fully cures (upwards of 3 months) it's susceptible to chemical damage. I,ve inadvertantly got other paint on it & stuff & it bubbles up & all sorts. Even another coat of itself will make it go weird!
For what it's worth, the way I go about chassis preservation is, good wire brushing on the outside, steam cleaning would be good on wherever on the inside you can reach (it can be good to go over the outside of the chassis with a hammer first to find any really iffy areas & it can vibrate off a lot of the cack inside prior to blasting it out).
The part that's tricky unless you a nice heated garage (I haven't!) is getting the chassis totally dry before the next steps!
Red oxide undercoat applied liberally, black enamel top coat (I use Inernational Yacht enamel, ain't cheap but does a good job & acts like a normal paint & you can put on more than one coat).
Then a good waxoyling inside & out (I'd do the outside after the rebuild though as the stuff does get everywhere if you're still doing underbody work).
The stuff does do a really good job of rust prevention inside chassis, some like it & some hate it. It is messy, but I (try) to give my vehicles a good coating in the stuff every year.
Bummer on getting stitched up on ebay too! There'some right scheisters out there!
Cheers,
Marcus.
For what it's worth, the way I go about chassis preservation is, good wire brushing on the outside, steam cleaning would be good on wherever on the inside you can reach (it can be good to go over the outside of the chassis with a hammer first to find any really iffy areas & it can vibrate off a lot of the cack inside prior to blasting it out).
The part that's tricky unless you a nice heated garage (I haven't!) is getting the chassis totally dry before the next steps!
Red oxide undercoat applied liberally, black enamel top coat (I use Inernational Yacht enamel, ain't cheap but does a good job & acts like a normal paint & you can put on more than one coat).
Then a good waxoyling inside & out (I'd do the outside after the rebuild though as the stuff does get everywhere if you're still doing underbody work).
The stuff does do a really good job of rust prevention inside chassis, some like it & some hate it. It is messy, but I (try) to give my vehicles a good coating in the stuff every year.
Bummer on getting stitched up on ebay too! There'some right scheisters out there!
Cheers,
Marcus.
Dont know if this helps but I needed to clean some steel the other day and ended up buying a sandblasting gun from machine mart it was only £25. Dont buy the proper sand blasting material go to one of the diy shops and buy a bag of block paving sand which has been kiln dried, only about £2, works fantastic especialy if you have any awkward corners to get into.
yella
New Member
Trewey
Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.
You can apply more than one coat of Hammerite - you just need to do it after the solvent has evaproated fully and before the paint chemically hardens. If you read the fine print on the instructions, it tells you the timescales (something like between 16 and 36 hours) but these depend on the ambient temperature and humidity.
lol thanks for all opinons, so it sounds to me you all favour hammerite more than waxoil shutz? one thought i did just have is that the electricity pilons round my way are all painted with some special black paint with bits of zinc or something in it, i never see a rusty pilon lol
