Blah blah blah

Some basic things:

1. EGR Remove and blank (Also remove from ECU to prevent issues, happy to be corrected here, as I don't have an ECU)
2. Straight through exhaust, stainless or Al dipped works depending on your needs.
3. Full width intercooler, fram and stiffer hoses (silicon etc.)
4. ECU Remap will buy you a lot of gains but do this LAST.
5. Depending on your needs, increased Tyre diameter from stock (and adjust steering lock-outs for tighter turning circle)
6. Discovery spec transfer box innards w/cross drilled input gear (you'll need to change the speedo sensor so that it reads correctly)
7. 14" Ken Lowe fan to replace viscous fan unit (less bhp drain from the parasitic coupling)
8. Red Polybushes all round (if you want stiff ride), Blue all round if you want a little more comfort (incl. radius arms)
9. Personally, I would also upgrade to HD springs for improved handling, check your shocks at the same time.
10. Fit antiroll bars if not already fitted.
11. Remove any unnecessary weight.

12. Seats: duct tape a cushion to your trousers.

Alm.

Removed my own comments

BATFINKING said:

well I've got a 110 TD5 2003 manual, coming next week and want to know the best mods for the engine first and foremost to get the most out of it.

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Why not drive it first??? Seriously, what is the need to try and "get the most out of it" before you even have it???

BATFINKING said:

2. With my 110 being a 2003 and most likely has a catalytic converter can I fit a straight through centre pipe and gain better breathing and quicker turbo spool? If so what one?

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You can, but it will then probably fail an MoT, so will require faffing and refitting it again.

BATFINKING said:

3. Remap: basic remap first (stage 1) as pretty much blew my budget on buying the 110 in the first place so want to keep the cost down and don't want to buy a upgraded radiator - who is best? I'm in Scotland

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A remap can be worthwhile. But again, why not try getting used to the vehicle first.

BATFINKING said:

4. Road handling - I will drive mostly on the road and probably very occasional drive over terrain but I'm thinking about the best way to get the suspension suited for the roads, anti roll bars worth adding and what ones? I've saw people adding later tdci struts etc what would be the best thing for smoother driving on the open road?

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Not buying a Defender by the sounds of things. Maybe an estate car would have suited you better.

BATFINKING said:

5. Cruise control? I do a 30 mile trip a few times a week and it's mostly motorway so cruise control would be nice if possible

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See answer to point 4.

BATFINKING said:

6. Seats, although my seats are in pretty new condition (half leather standard defender) I will probably fit some kind of heated seats sports styled seats, is there a kit to help fit non landrover seats such as the Mazda sports ones I've seen and how would I access the battery? Would it be better to get seats specific for the defender that comes with a kit and add my own heated seat kit?

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It sounds like a Defender is 100% not for you. Enjoy what is probably a likely to be a brief ownership.

Cruise control is very expensive to fit £500+ last time I looked.

It is unlikely it will fail the MOT missing the CAT /DPF, which should be fitted for the MOT but mines 2002 has passed every time a 3 different garages. So should be fine, if your worried a few companies to bolt/weld on fake DPFs.

I would avoid HD springs I fitted some to mine and it made the ride very hard, recently swapped to Terrafirma medium load shocks & springs which give a very nice, comfortable ride even with a roll cage. Though light load should do you fine but if the dampers and springs are in decent condition it should handle fine anyway.

You won't need an upgraded radiator, you may need an upgraded intercooler however. Britpart make one for around £350 which is a Serk rebrand, had one fitted to mine for around 18 months, zero issues with it.

Dynachip do great remaps and run a mobile service for £225, though again do it last if you plan to fit a larger IC

You can turn the boost up to around 16/17psi (stock is around 14psi) by adjusting the wastegate but you will need a boost gauge or a Nanocom/similar to accurately adjust boost without blowing anything! That should give a little performance boost.

Stick with paper air filters, the foam ones can wreck the MAF sensor.

Theres also uprated turbos but they run into £1k+

@Almonds and @bankz cheers for the advice it's appreciated

BATFINKING said:

@Almonds and @bankz cheers for the advice it's appreciated

@300bhp/ton i did drive it before purchase and have drove defenders in the past. No other vehicle is suitable for what I need it for actually, and I like defenders it's as simple as that. I'm not a farmer but I learned to drive on a farm and don't mind a good jaunt over the grass or shrubbery from time to time, im sure I can make an adult choice on what type of vehicle and what accesories I would like and how I would like to drive, lol. Thanks but no thanks for your useless advice, il know to steer clear of you in future

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Think that's a bit rough on 300, you made no mention of your previous defender experiences and many newcomers on here (and to defenders) have unrealistic or OTT expectations of what they want to do. I think he gave you some sound advice based on the information you gave in your first post. You will find we are generally a friendly and helpful bunch on here but if you have that sort of attitude to what was a reasonable reply that won't be appreciated. Must admit I could have been the victim of your reply as I was mostly thinking the same thoughts but 300 was quicker on the keyboard than me!

Cheers