farmershort
Well-Known Member
Yeah Ashcroft's has come up more than once. Lt85 is an auto isn't it? The plan was to get Ashcroft's to build an r380 for me. Yes, it is a 110 it'll be going in.
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
lt85 is old school heavy duty manual
farmershort
Well-Known Member
Ahhh thanks for that correction! I've only got a few weeks of reading under my belt when it comes to rover v8 stuff, so there's bound to be a few of these incidents.
MayorQuimby
Active Member
Im beginning to sense a vapour build here.......
farmershort
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure what you mean by that.
farmershort
Well-Known Member
Oh great, ok.
I guess I'd hit on the r380 train of thought because I'd be started with a 300tdi running gear, so could re use the internals.
If the lt85 is known stronger... Or Mr Ashcroft can make it stronger for reasonable money, then perhaps its a better idea. What's the gearing like compared to the r380?
cooltide
sheep fancier
For the noise you crave, a 4 barrel carb is what you need. They always burble and snarle griffle better than efi.
The r380 is good for 380 ft.lb of torque believe it or not
You need at least a ported cammed 4.6 rv8 for your needs.
A Chevy on carbs is going to tick all your boxes too without even trying but heavier.
An ali gm ls will cost more. Either will need a yank box mating to a land rover transfer box. So you need to find someone to do the work.
Think this is also applicable to a John eales / turner rv8 build, they don't install engines.
RPI do but the are like Marmite. IMO they build good engines in a shed; don't be fooled by the pictures on their website, it's a shed.
The r380 is good for 380 ft.lb of torque believe it or not
You need at least a ported cammed 4.6 rv8 for your needs.
A Chevy on carbs is going to tick all your boxes too without even trying but heavier.
An ali gm ls will cost more. Either will need a yank box mating to a land rover transfer box. So you need to find someone to do the work.
Think this is also applicable to a John eales / turner rv8 build, they don't install engines.
RPI do but the are like Marmite. IMO they build good engines in a shed; don't be fooled by the pictures on their website, it's a shed.
allthingschevy
New Member
Small block chevy 350 will be roughy 520-560 lbs depending on heads, you could get an aluminium block but they cost a small fortune. Sbc are know for being reliable and putting out good power, standard crate engines but out 270-290 bhp. I have a sbc at the moment which easily makes 350+ bhp with a 4 barrel Holley, ally inlet, ally heads 64cc chamber, flat top Pistons, 10:1 compression ratio and a mild hudraulic flat tappet camshaft. I build
These engines hope that's of some help, if you go the small block chevy route expect to pay 3000-3600 for a decent recon engine, message me if you have any more questions regarding sbc engines. I'm currently looking for a land rover to put one of my engines in also
These engines hope that's of some help, if you go the small block chevy route expect to pay 3000-3600 for a decent recon engine, message me if you have any more questions regarding sbc engines. I'm currently looking for a land rover to put one of my engines in also
MayorQuimby
Active Member
Im warning you right now. If you intend to offroad to the point that you will be at odd angles, DO NOT use a carb / carbs. They do not work at angles. Even with the "offroad" kits fitted.
ronsealdeath
Sagging Member
Just a 4.6 with a tidy cam will do the job. Top hats from acr or whoever and it would be great. Not that costly surely?
farmershort
Well-Known Member
Honestly chaps... I passed my test in the year 2000... I haven't got a clue about carbs!
Efi will give me better mpg apparently too.
I'm still leaning toward the 4.6 rv8 option really. Seems nice to me to keep the landy lineage in some form....
Efi will give me better mpg apparently too.
I'm still leaning toward the 4.6 rv8 option really. Seems nice to me to keep the landy lineage in some form....
farmershort
Well-Known Member
Not sure if anyone is still reading this... But are there any jag v8 engines which are commonly used for this transfer?
bencorkill
Well-Known Member
Rv8 is such a easy engine to work on. I rebuilt my 3.9 myself, I'm not a technical genius but I know my way around a spanner can pm me if u ever need any advice
in short no.
but anything is possible..it depends on ones skills or cash flow..
ie in sally i run 450ish hp toyota quad cam supercharged v8
and in ruby 400?hp 4.6 rv8 supercharged nitrosed..
both efi..both megasquirt..sally manual, ruby flappy padle auto..both suffix a rrc's..
i did myself due to cash flow deficiencies..
MayorQuimby
Active Member
Thats what i said. And i already offered to walk him through an RV8 build step by step...
farmershort
Well-Known Member
I know I know... You're all very generous folk! That's why I've been a member here so long! I guess I'm just nervous about ballsing it up. I'll get the donor vehicle sorted first (still looking!), and then once I've made a start on the chassis work I might feel a bit better about taking on the engine work myself.
Quick q... Given that I want to use efi, does it matter whether I go with a disco 3.9 or a rangie 3.9? Ideally I want the serp belt version i think.
Quick q... Given that I want to use efi, does it matter whether I go with a disco 3.9 or a rangie 3.9? Ideally I want the serp belt version i think.
MayorQuimby
Active Member
Its not important, they use same injectors etc. if going megasquirt (highly recommended) the fuelling and spark will be taken care of by the megasquirt ecu anyway.
Re serp question. Thats not too important either. Yes the serp offers a better oil pump and a more robust belt, but in all honesty i dont have serp, and i havent heard of anyone having a major failure due to not having serp. I will be running with an upgraded 120A alternator and do not envisage any probs. a few mates are running 120A alternators without the belt squeeling..
Re serp question. Thats not too important either. Yes the serp offers a better oil pump and a more robust belt, but in all honesty i dont have serp, and i havent heard of anyone having a major failure due to not having serp. I will be running with an upgraded 120A alternator and do not envisage any probs. a few mates are running 120A alternators without the belt squeeling..
farmershort
Well-Known Member
so, to continue my raft of possibly slightly daft appearing questions...
If I'm going to end up with a 4.6 in the end, why do people (read: should I) start with a 3.9 and not the 4.6 out of a P38?
Also, the cross-bolting thing... does this add/remove anything one would notice day-to-day? It came in with the 4.0 right?
If I'm going to end up with a 4.6 in the end, why do people (read: should I) start with a 3.9 and not the 4.6 out of a P38?
Also, the cross-bolting thing... does this add/remove anything one would notice day-to-day? It came in with the 4.0 right?
bencorkill
Well-Known Member
Cross bolt doesn't add anything you'd notice day to day. If I was you I'd start with a p38 4.6 block and get it re lined with top hat liners to stop the potential of liners slipping
