Chum had a 300 tdi Disco that bust a cam belt at 11,000 miles and 13 months.
Dealers and LandRover said he had to pay up. I got involved.
Two days later they brought a courtesy Range Rover, and took the Disco away for free repairs AND another 12 months warranty on the engine.

CharlesY
That's interesting... I had so many problems with my 300TDi that they replaced the cambelt without a murmer after 18 months, 6 months outside warranty. AND again when it went again a fortnight later. But by then I'd had enough and traded it in for a Freelander. Much happier with my subsequent Discos (a knackered old rusty 200TDi and for the last few years a rather lovely TD5). Must say the Freelander was the only one that was 100% reliable though...:)
 
That's interesting... I had so many problems with my 300TDi that they replaced the cambelt without a murmer after 18 months, 6 months outside warranty. AND again when it went again a fortnight later. But by then I'd had enough and traded it in for a Freelander. Much happier with my subsequent Discos (a knackered old rusty 200TDi and for the last few years a rather lovely TD5). Must say the Freelander was the only one that was 100% reliable though...:)

the early 300's had a design fault on the cambelt. there was no shoulder on the crank pully which caused the belt to wander eventually wearing against the timing housing causing premature belt failure. LR initially thought this due to the torque setting on the idler and specified a revised torque setting.

later they decided that it was a bad design on the pullies and created a set of pullies and idlers with shoulders to aid the guidence of the belt.

I ordered the kit for a cambelt change and due having an early 300 vin, they gave me the original kit. which was wrong 'cos at some stage the cambelt had been changed and the pullies changed for the uprated/newer kit.
 
the early 300's had a design fault on the cambelt.
Yes I found that out later, but in this case I think it was sheer embarassment on their part at the crapness of the car. They had already replaced the gearbox (twice), the transfer box, the power steering, etc etc etc... It had got to the stage where I couldn't go out and guarantee to arrive at my destination other than on the back of a flatbed.:mad:
 
Yes I found that out later, but in this case I think it was sheer embarassment on their part at the crapness of the car. They had already replaced the gearbox (twice), the transfer box, the power steering, etc etc etc... It had got to the stage where I couldn't go out and guarantee to arrive at my destination other than on the back of a flatbed.:mad:

rubbish!!
 
Fully synthetic oils are a COMPLETE WASTE OF MONEY!!!

Use tractor universal oil at about or under £1 a litre, and change it every 5/6000 miles.

My Disco TD5 has been running on that for 50,000 miles, and the last change was after 11,000 miles. The guy watching the oil coming out said it was so clean why was I changing it?!
My SAAB 900 Turbo is on over 100,000 miles on that same oil.

I use Brett Oils OVOLINE Tractor Universal and I buy a 210 litre barrel and get a good price.

The secret with oils - keep it clean, keep it HOT, and change it when it gets dirty or wet.

Remember, Fully synthetic is NOT a better lubricant, but it does last longer. At £1 a litre for TU oils my changes cost me £6 or so. Compared to the price of Fully synthetic that's not a lot. For the same money I could change my oil every 500 miles, never mind 5,000!

We have had this discussion before, and remember, garages and oil companies make BIG profits on forecourt oil sales.

CharlesY
Do you use SUTO 10w/30 or SUTO 15w/30?
 
the sugested oil for my 3.9 d1 is 10w40 but i found a vid on youtube about a small ticking noise from a landrover v8 they changed the oil to 15w40 and it disapeared. i am asuming running a v8 on 15w40 would be fine then?
 

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