FL2 D3 D4 RRL322

  • FL2 TD4

    Votes: 2 18.2%

  • FL2 SD4 much betterererer than the TD4?

    Votes: 4 36.4%

  • D3 2.7

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • D3 3.0 More power than the 2.7

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • D4 3.0 if possible for the cash

    Votes: 4 36.4%

  • RR L322 Doozil

    Votes: 1 9.1%
  • Total voters
    11
neilly

neilly

Well-Known Member
So,

Having done 25K in 10 Months this year, mostly Mway miles and still liking the way the D2 drives and feels , plus liking its higher seating position.
I am considering what would be a good replacement when / if it dies. Has a catastrophic problem that takes it off the road.

Options are FL 2 , D3 maybe D4, RR L322. All Doozils, Economy would be nice, but it is not the end of the road.

Lets take a poll.

Cheers
 
I know it's stating the obvious, but the sort of mileage you guys can cover in such a short time period always amazes me.
It's taken me 4 years to cover 30k miles over here and I thought that was a lot!
 
DanClarke said:
Its missing a P38 Doozle in perfect nick (if you can find one).
Click to expand...

Not interested in one of them , so not missing. Ignored..LOL

Shimsteriom said:
I know it's stating the obvious, but the sort of mileage you guys can cover in such a short time period always amazes me.
It's taken me 4 years to cover 30k miles over here and I thought that was a lot!
Click to expand...

85 Mile commute, on a good day.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
Not interested in one of them , so not missing. Ignored..LOL



85 Mile commute, on a good day.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Errrr….. at most 2 mile commute that includes going to work & coming home for lunch then back n home again
sometimes I might do 2 1/2 miles as il need somit out the shed lol
 
Simple keep the D2 and fook the pole above..

As much as I love RR they aren't gonna be cheap to run with that kind of mileage being covered, parts are expensive as are diagnostics will be cheaper to run if you can spanner them.

the 3.6tdv8 which is what you're gonna get with your budget will do 20-25mpg so not so much of an econobox and as a workhorse, no. :D

Freelander, Forgot it, unless you have a Vagina..

D3 again expensive but can be manageable if your good on the wrenches but parts and diagnostics are expensive, much like the L322.



IMHO I'd stick with the D2 and just keep it going..

One of My personal Favourite LR's a jack of all trades. :)


If you want a RR you can get a good late DHSE P38 for a reasonable sum, they're cheap to fix and maintain.
 
neilly said:
So,



Options are FL 2 , D3 maybe D4, RR L322. All Doozils, Economy would be nice, but it is not the end of the road.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Where's the 90 soft top with the 3.9 auto transplant option please??:rolleyes:

That's my next project or just a 3.9 in any defender.
 
Ian M in France said:
10k will sort out a lot of problems with D2 and what ever you get for 10k will give you problems after a bit of time, stick with D2 and just keep changing bits
Click to expand...
Or it would be money down the drain, I like the D2, but am not in love with it as some seem to be , no way is it getting 10K spent on it to keep it alive.

Cheers
 
Henry_b said:
Simple keep the D2 and fook the pole above..

As much as I love RR they aren't gonna be cheap to run with that kind of mileage being covered, parts are expensive as are diagnostics will be cheaper to run if you can spanner them.

the 3.6tdv8 which is what you're gonna get with your budget will do 20-25mpg so not so much of an econobox and as a workhorse, no. :D

Freelander, Forgot it, unless you have a Vagina..

D3 again expensive but can be manageable if your good on the wrenches but parts and diagnostics are expensive, much like the L322.



IMHO I'd stick with the D2 and just keep it going..

One of My personal Favourite LR's a jack of all trades. :)


If you want a RR you can get a good late DHSE P38 for a reasonable sum, they're cheap to fix and maintain.
Click to expand...

I was hoping for useful answers...LOL.

Cheers
 
After being in a few D3s they arnt.a huge step up from a D2 imo. Just more refined, tad quiter, tad more comfortable.

D4 and RR however wonderful.

I happily did a 6 hour drive from Kent to Cumbria in one shot without issue in an 07 RR comfy as hell.
 
bankz5152 said:
After being in a few D3s they arnt.a huge step up from a D2 imo. Just more refined, tad quiter, tad more comfortable.

D4 and RR however wonderful.

I happily did a 6 hour drive from Kent to Cumbria in one shot without issue in an 07 RR comfy as hell.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bankz,

Cheers
 
Get a Honda CR-V for daily driving...and keep the D2 for teaching us minions all about it! :D
 
bankz5152 said:
After being in a few D3s they arnt.a huge step up from a D2 imo. Just more refined, tad quiter, tad more comfortabl
Click to expand...

Having owned both D2 and D3, I would disagree with this. The D3 is miles better to drive, much faster, much more refined, much quieter and handles modern traffic and road situations much better. It's also miles safer, if you're unlucky and are involved in an accident.

It is generally more fragile from a mechanical point of view however.

That said, I still miss my D3, but was glad to see the D2 driving down the road, without me behind the wheel.
 
neilly said:
Or it would be money down the drain, I like the D2, but am not in love with it as some seem to be , no way is it getting 10K spent on it to keep it alive.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Hi I am not saying you need to spend 10k on it but if you put the 10k to one side for problems, if say you bought a late discovery 3 with 100k on the clock a nice car and a better drive, and kept it 4 years at 30k per year thats 220k whats it worth? do not know miles your D2 has done but if say 160k, in 4 years 280k bits change when needed,all the bits are not expensive, if not rusted away will have around same value ,
I had to decide the same,I was looking at the ford rangers but kept the D2, It does around 20k a year but a lot with trailer I have just spent a bit taking the ace off and new prop shaft total about 500, Only thing is you do get lots of small problems like door locks , windows ect that you can live with but become a pain so should do them as they go wrong , Difference here is cars do not rust like they do in UK so as long as it goes and stops will be okay, don't think the control technique is as hard as MOT for picking up small problems
But what ever you get in the end good luck with it, all landrover owners need a bit of luck
 
Ian M in France said:
Hi I am not saying you need to spend 10k on it but if you put the 10k to one side for problems, if say you bought a late discovery 3 with 100k on the clock a nice car and a better drive, and kept it 4 years at 30k per year thats 220k whats it worth? do not know miles your D2 has done but if say 160k, in 4 years 280k bits change when needed,all the bits are not expensive, if not rusted away will have around same value ,
I had to decide the same,I was looking at the ford rangers but kept the D2, It does around 20k a year but a lot with trailer I have just spent a bit taking the ace off and new prop shaft total about 500, Only thing is you do get lots of small problems like door locks , windows ect that you can live with but become a pain so should do them as they go wrong , Difference here is cars do not rust like they do in UK so as long as it goes and stops will be okay, don't think the control technique is as hard as MOT for picking up small problems
But what ever you get in the end good luck with it, all landrover owners need a bit of luck
Click to expand...

Fair enuff, let me explain .

Wear and tear , replacement and maintenance is fine, a prop is wear and tear, those will be done as and when I am not looking to kill it, notice in the OP I state when / if it dies / catastrophic failure. If it suffers a major failure that takes it off the road , then spending time fixing it will not be an option and a replacement will be needed sharpish, reason for the OP.

Doing a daily commute of 85 Miles with business miles on top in a soft top 90 is not really viable. So I am not using the toy while I fix the D2 if it dies. :p

Cheers
 
I'm interested in this a lot. I do similar mileage and I hit a worry just about things breaking. I would've probably preferred a d3 or d4 than what I have. I spent 17k on mine and will lose a lot of money on it. As you know though, a car you get on with is a must if doing loads of mileage, getting up crack of dawn etc.
I have full manufacturers warranty which eases my mind. If you told me a d3 or 4 would've been as reliable as a panzer I would've had one. My bosses d3 killed itself at 100k. That scared me.
How do you run a d3 or 4 without fear?
 
resto_d1 said:
I would've had one. My bosses d3 killed itself at 100k. That scared me.
Click to expand...

I sold my D3 with 176,000K as I was worried it might pop it's crankshaft. However, I know that it's still going strong with over 200K on it!!
After I sold the D3, I got the opportunity to look at a couple of failed TDV6 engines, which prompted more research into this catastrophic engine failure. It appears to be due to a bearing problem, and completely random. It also appears that the engine will generally fail before 100K miles or so. Engines that make it past 100K will often survive for 300K miles .

Of course not knowing which engine is going to destroy itself, isn't much help to the owner or progressive purchasers.
 
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