Northern Irelander

Northern Irelander

Well-Known Member
I was driving to work this morning.
Pulled out of a junction and when changing from 2nd to 3rd, clutch fell to floor. Tried to flick it back up with my L foot, but the pedal had died and it fell to the floor again.

Pulled over and popped the bonnet open. Clutch slave cylinder had come off its mountings.:eek:

Typical! Had to strip the air filter housing out, clicked the slave cylinder back into its position.

The plastic flange around the cylinder had disintegrated with a fair bit of play in the clip.

Managed to find a heavy cable tie and fasten the slave cylinder in place:D

Roadside repair in 10min




damn it....... could have got the day off work:mad:
 
Amazing - I did the same last year!!

My mounting bracket also broke, so I repaired using an old trailer electric mounting bracket - cut down and riveted to the existing bracket. A cable tie replaced the lost plastic clip and away we went again.

I replaced the bracket, but the cable tie is still going strong!!

Regards,

Steve
 
A towing electric socket :cool: nice one!

What I don't get..................is,

why did LR slap on that heavy steel bracket on the gearbox. It's a proper job,it's probably adopted from Rover, then LR go with a p!ss poor plastic bayonet-style fastener and C-clip that looks like it came from a childs lego box.

I'll look into the towing socket, was also thinking about a parallel plate running along the back of the slave cylinder, with some eyelets to fasten jubilee clips through.

Problem is the tapered cover on the Slave cyl
 
Feel free to bid Tony. Alan had a look at it at the weekend - he was flagged down by a bloke on a tractor who turned out to own that Freelander and asked him if he wanted it for $1K! So if you want it cheap - it might be worth going via @htr - you could give him a call and make an offer.

Alan's got some pics he took of it - it ain't exactly what you'd call "good tidy condition" - stains on front & back seats - duck tape sealing the sunroof etc.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Feel free to bid Tony. Alan had a look at it at the weekend - he was flagged down by a bloke on a tractor who turned out to own that Freelander and asked him if he wanted it for $1K! So if you want it cheap - it might be worth going via @htr - you could give him a call and make an offer.

Alan's got some pics he took of it - it ain't exactly what you'd call "good tidy condition" - stains on front & back seats - duck tape sealing the sunroof etc.
Click to expand...

Was not seriously interested in it. But, maybe for $500 I could be forced to buy it, but the ES trim etc. has spoilt me.
 
Tony, I had a look, mixed true brands, new Kumho tyres on the front. A sudden lack of drive made me wonder at a stiff VCU + smaller tyres on the back = stuffing the IRD - 226000km and all! Cook clutch release bearing? Was that the prob' with that K series you got G?

It's very plain: no TB, or mud flaps, he mentioned a dog guard but I didn't see one, LR rubber mats, no roof rails and a LR cassette player [ does that mean it could have a CD stacker under the seat? It's well south of Balclutha, 60+km down at the mouth of the Tahakopa River estuary = Papatoewai - a very pretty spot to holiday in if you want to get away from it all! Yeah I figured about $500 too.
 
htr said:
Tony, I had a look, mixed true brands, new Kumho tyres on the front. A sudden lack of drive made me wonder at a stiff VCU + smaller tyres on the back = stuffing the IRD - 226000km and all! Cook clutch release bearing? Was that the prob' with that K series you got G?

It's very plain: no TB, or mud flaps, he mentioned a dog guard but I didn't see one, LR rubber mats, no roof rails and a LR cassette player [ does that mean it could have a CD stacker under the seat? It's well south of Balclutha, 60+km down at the mouth of the Tahakopa River estuary = Papatoewai - a very pretty spot to holiday in if you want to get away from it all! Yeah I figured about $500 too.
Click to expand...
The initial problem with the Red one was a VERY siezed release arm. Once I managed to free that up the clutch was making a hell of a racket - which I presume is the release bearing (I may have broke it with the very large axe I used to free the arm!).

It did sound like the IRD from his description didn't it? Then sell it as "clutch gone" to those that don't know the cars. But if what he said about driving it home in a gear is right, then I suppose its true.

As for being worth $500 - the deregistered L Series with moderate (not slight that's for sure) crash damage at Turners went for way more than that a couple of weeks ago! There was an L Series engine in Nelson in the parts section closed a couple of days ago with a $500 bid...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1183956083
 
GrumpyGel said:
The initial problem with the Red one was a VERY siezed release arm. Once I managed to free that up the clutch was making a hell of a racket - which I presume is the release bearing (I may have broke it with the very large axe I used to free the arm!).

It did sound like the IRD from his description didn't it? Then sell it as "clutch gone" to those that don't know the cars. But if what he said about driving it home in a gear is right, then I suppose its true.

As for being worth $500 - the deregistered L Series with moderate (not slight that's for sure) crash damage at Turners went for way more than that a couple of weeks ago! There was an L Series engine in Nelson in the parts section closed a couple of days ago with a $500 bid...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1183956083
Click to expand...

Not saying it is only worth $500, but I would not pay more. Even getting back here would cost not much less than $500 no matter if I used a commercial operator or took a trip down and stayed a night or two (no, not even for a FL, will I sleep in the car).

However at $500 it might work, for a couple of large brushless motors I have my eye on, batteries and the controller I have most of the bits for. As much as I am over working on stinking diesels, the idea of paying no diesel RUCs is attractive.
 
Cable ties kept me auto gearbox barrel connectors together for many years :)

PnqqrjE.jpg

DSC01080 PnqqrjE
 
Last edited:
I should also add the L shape computer box under the bonnet wobbled so that was held secure by tie wraps anorl.
 
The cruise control vac pump is held onto the battery holder with tie wraps anorl. Much easier than them there rubber pull through things which yer can't pull through as yer can't get yer fingers/hands in.
 
And there are the ones on the ends of the thermostat tube in a KV6, and are only of use for about 10 seconds before becoming redundant.

And another one on the fat end of the driveshaft CV joint when using a modified Mazda 3 CV joint boot to replace the original.
 
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