ColinNI · Nov 26, 2014

OK folks hope you can help me with this one, I've been searching the forum here also as I go along.

Have a 2000 1.8 xi 5 door saloon and she's a none starter. Bought in an effort to restore and enjoy.

Here's the issues so far.

Won't start
New fully charged correct battery fitted
Car will crank freely on starter motor smoothly so no issues there
Car won't catch to start even with easy start
It's close to catching, picks up a bit and then back to crank on starter
It did pop / backfire three times when cranking on easy start when we stopped cranking.
Good fuel, hear the fuel pump priming also

Have had the car on a proper launch diagnostic system now, and whilst it read other faults it would read the engine code faults itself.

Now I'm going to start with a brand new cam sensor but after that I'd prefer good advise.

Kind regards and thanks in advance.

Colin

htr · Nov 27, 2014

Lots of potential problems. A back fire - that's fuel igniting in the exhaust system. Is the exhaust clear and unobstructed. The Cat could be blocked / damaged.

S' plugs in good order - correct gap? maybe replace them?

distributor - contacts clean and bright.

ECU connections to fuel system and dist' use contact cleaner to ensure good electrical contacts.

Fuel filter in the pump assembly [ in the fuel tank itself] clean - perhaps replace it?

freelance · Nov 27, 2014

does the impact switch need resetting on the bulkhead, (fuel cut off switch)?

ColinNI · Dec 3, 2014

freelance said:
does the impact switch need resetting on the bulkhead, (fuel cut off switch)?

Got a photo of the location and how to trip it back?

Diesel Do · Dec 4, 2014

You don't say if you actually have a spark or wet plugs or other real basics, would help a lot with guessing

teddywood1 · Dec 4, 2014

has the head gasket been done and the timing is out

ColinNI · Dec 8, 2014

Brand new cam sensor went into her today.

No joy, the tacho picked up once when cranking and it was far closer to starting than before.

Next up is fuel filter, spark plugs, leads and distributor cap.

If it's not that then I will start looking at timing belts etc.

Diesel Do · Dec 9, 2014

You're guessing not diagnosing

ZDomZ · Dec 9, 2014

Plug leads round the right way?

Check for spark...
Pull the plugs-are they wet? Too wet? Won't start if flooded.
Do a compression test.

Check the basics, like you would on an old engine..... Then look at the electronics if a code reader isn't giving any problem codes then maybe there is nothing wrong?

Don't just throw parts at it in the hope of accidently fixing it. That is a crazy way of doing things and wasting money.

ColinNI · Dec 11, 2014

Was told when getting the car it was a CRANK sensor had failed, and sure enough I found a old CRANK sensor in the car removed so that was my train of thought to be honest.

Sorry it should have been CRANK sensor not CAM sensor in my above post.

Diesel Do · Dec 11, 2014

We're trying to help here. A couple of us have asked you for basic details to try and give a more accurate diagnosis to avoid replacing everything, you've ignored us! I've been a mechanic for over twenty years! I'm happy to help but you need to help me too. A quick heads up on easy start, never use it on an engine with a plastic manifold, you can split them open when it spits back. So when you do fix the problem it still wont start.

Nodge68 · Dec 11, 2014

Diesel Do said:
We're trying to help here. A couple of us have asked you for basic details to try and give a more accurate diagnosis to avoid replacing everything, you've ignored us! I've been a mechanic for over twenty years! I'm happy to help but you need to help me too. A quick heads up on easy start, never use it on an engine with a plastic manifold, you can split them open when it spits back. So when you do fix the problem it still wont start.

I'm with DD ^^^^
Guessing isn't diagnosing.
So far you have changed the CAS to no avail.
You need to be checking for a timed spark, especially as Easy Start failed to fire the engine.
I'd go for a rotor arm and cap first. These are known to fail without warning.
Checking the plugs for wetness would be a good start ; )
The fuel pump is running so that may be discounted at this stage.

Arctic2 · Dec 11, 2014

freelance said:
does the impact switch need resetting on the bulkhead, (fuel cut off switch)?

ColinNI said:
Got a photo of the location and how to trip it back?

Hi Colin.
here you go pic of the switch but doubt it will be that check the leads etc don't forget basically the same engine as I the R75 1.8t

ColinNI · Dec 12, 2014

Appreciate help folks. Hasn't had a chance to look at her yet.

ColinNI · Jan 23, 2015

OK great news. Got the car started it takes 20 seconds or so to start but as soon as it runs for maybe 30 seconds it dies slowly.

It also dies instantly if you try to press the throttle.

When it runs it sounds perfect like a k series should so it's on time etc.

I've got a fresh fuel filter to go in, so I'm going to change that but would it be likely the fuel pump failure is causing this or one that's low on pressure.

Thanks for all the advice so far folks.

htr · Jan 24, 2015

ColinNI said:
OK great news. Got the car started it takes 20 seconds or so to start but as soon as it runs for maybe 30 seconds it dies slowly.

It also dies instantly if you try to press the throttle.

When it runs it sounds perfect like a k series should so it's on time etc.

I've got a fresh fuel filter to go in, so I'm going to change that but would it be likely the fuel pump failure is causing this or one that's low on pressure.

Thanks for all the advice so far folks.

Yes it does sound like a fuel problem - enough to get going but not enough to drive it with. You might as well put in a new pump with that filter you've already got.

Mine has a similar but intermitant problem it our hot summer weather. When driving the motor would suddenly loose power, idles ok but when pumping the accelerator you'd get backfires and it would die. It guessed it was either dist' cap or lead/s. I've replaced leads, dist' cap and rotor and am awaiting a new fuel pump/filter to arrive from the UK.

ColinNI · Jan 24, 2015

Well I've got a fuel filter sitting here now, so try it anyways for sake of a few quid would order another new one if I got a new pump also to do it right.

Genuinely happy about this, was worried engine was off timing or damaged.

Nodge68 · Jan 24, 2015

You can test the pump buy bridging the relay with a DMM set to 10 Amps. The pump should draw 6 to 7 Amps.

htr · Jan 24, 2015

Nodge68 said:
You can test the pump buy bridging the relay with a DMM set to 10 Amps. The pump should draw 6 to 7 Amps.

Nodge what pressure should the pump deliver to the engine and where is the best point to measure it?

ColinNI · Feb 4, 2015

OK finally had a chance to look at her today again

Car started instantly after fuel filter change (looked like failed o ring in it) to bearmarc unit.

Now she will rev happily sitting idling no problems now, it was hunting between 800 and 1000rpm when cold (car hadn't started or ran for anytime in 12 months) but now car is warm is sitting at 900rpm dead.

Problem is when you try to use move I'm under load. If you using low revs and clutch to move forward or reverse it doesn't want to know and seems to stall out.

If you use high revs (3k plus) and use extra clutch it will move back and forwards.

I'm thinking either the fuel pump is now duff under load or is the throttle body failing. I think I've the plastic type . I've cleaned around the throttle area also since.

Thanks for help so far. Just trying to do this as cheap and spare time as possible.

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