Hi all,

Having a bit of a problem - 1999 1.8 freelander, has been running quite well up till the other day when I went out to start it and it refused to start. No previous indications of problems other that a slight hesitation at high revs. Saw that we were getting a bit of a christmas light show with the ignition leads (only saw that as it was very dark and very wet) so the rotor arm, dizzy cap, leads and plugs have been changed. Good spark available.

Pulled off fuel pipe to injector rail and stuck it in container and switched pump on, decent supply of fuel out in a few seconds. Tried some easi-start into the inlet manifold, no go with that. Checked that the timing belt was still in one piece, seems to be, camshafts turning over ok. Plenty coolant and was running ok when it shut down last so don't think HGF. Plenty juice in the battery, start motor spins it over fine.

Anyone any further ideas what to look for? Any K series checklist available? Need to get this back on the road asap. Thanks.

Chatting to bloke the other day, he had same problem as you, he found his immboliser was the problem. Hope this helps Andy

got asked same question? the guy suspected his immobiliser.

Thanks guys, have booked a mate to come out with his computer to see if it can interrogate the ECU and override the immobiliser but that will be a couple of days.

I have had problems with the immobilisation, the one key fob I have has gone through batteries at a horrendous rate (approx one a week), it is very odd - fob has been taken to bits and is clean inside, no corrosion and good batteries used. New battery in the fob and it works as far as lock/unlock fine, and it does want the fob in proximity of key to turn over. Does anyone have any detailed descriptions of the immobiliser and any fault check lists, RAVE is very quiet about it.

Still no further with this one. Computer connected that can talk to the security system - it confirmed that the MEMS ECU was getting a valid security code when the vehicle was unlocked, 2 plips programmed and appear to lock/unlock and present the right codes. No faults logged, can see signal ok from crankshaft position sensor, the only sensor that doesn't seem to be sending correct values is the fuel temp which is sitting at 200 as well as ambient temp sense which is also at 200 - though coolant temp and air intake temp are accurate. Don't think there is an ambient temp sensor, and would have thought that the fuel temp would only affect trim of fuel a little bit, though it didn't go back to its default value when unplugged so I will investigate that further. Any other ideas?

The early MEMS system never had fuel temp or ambient temp sensors, mine read 200 too.

If the engine is cranking over, it probably isn't an ECU issue.

Is it definately getting a good spark at the plugs? The last one I bought was arcing out at the coil, had a hairline crack in the ceramic.

Quick update on this - its now running though perhaps not 100%. Although it was turning over fast on the starter and had a good battery I was advised to bump start it and did this and it got it going. Out of interest I put the computer back on it. Seems that the lambda sensor values are not changing as I would expect, it is not cycling between 0 and 1v - so that will need further investigation, although this shouldn't have affected the starting from cold. What was more interesting still is that it is reporting a crank signal fault. The crankshaft position sensor was replaced with one from a 1999 1.4 rover 25 - same sensor, RAVE says that MEMS won't start/run with a faulty sensor? wiring seems to be OK. I assume that the RPM signal I see on the computer is coming from the CPS? initially when troubleshooting the CPS was showing no faults. Not sure why the computer is saying faulty signal but yet the engine is still running. Any further ideas about the CPS? Thanks for advice to date. Strong spark at the plugs disco mikey, all sparky bits apart from coil are new and have now been examined with engine running in dark, no electric leaks there now