Nodge68 · Jul 15, 2016

AFS1 said:
Thanks for that. Have measured the liners they are all in-line with each other, and are ALL flush with the block deck. Have been told an MLS HG is not suitable and that for MLS the liners need to be 3k or more above the block deck. If this is the case, then I am back to fitting a HG with a form of plastiser such as the Payen BW750 (blue). Anyone got any views, suggestions or other ideas?
One advantage of fitting a Payen would mean I do not then have to drop the sump to change to oil rail..... for the uprated torque settings on the 'N' series replacement HG! Plus it will no doubt be a cheaper option - just a case of its longevity......

Fit the Payen with liners flush with the block. That's why Rover developed the elaso gasket in the first place. The BW750 is the best elastopolymer gasket available.

It should outlast the original because of the steel dowels it comes with. This stops the head from shimmying on the block which reduces the chance of the elasto from breaking free.

The Mad Hat Man · Jul 15, 2016

Liners flush?

Nodge68 · Jul 15, 2016

The Mad Hat Man said:
Liners flush?

Flush is acceptable MHM. It's on the limit but it'll be ok

Alibro · Jul 16, 2016

AFS1 said:
Peoples, I need your expert help again. I'm carefully cleaning the cylinder head and noticed that the two dowel holes had retained oil in them, but when I cleaned/drained this out, one end (timing belt end) has a small oil hole (about 1/2 the size of the dowel hole) in the bottom, obviously for pumping the oil through the steel dowel from the block. The other (gearbox end) appears to just be a dowel hole, with no hole for oil to pass through. Is this right? Can't find anything about the dowel holes etc. in the w/shop manual (not helpful at all!). Appreciate any advice before putting the head back on...... Thanks

I wasn't aware of any need for oil pumping through the dowels and certainly didn't take it into account when doing mine. Unless someone knows different I wouldn't worry about it. What I would say is make sure the bolt holes are clean though (the holes through the block to the oil rail. When I did mine they were so gunged up I had major difficulty pulling the bolts out. The oil rail has holes so the bolts poke through a little.

Alibro · Jul 16, 2016

Nodge68 said:
Flush is acceptable MHM. It's on the limit but it'll be ok

The two I did were both flush.

Nodge68 · Jul 16, 2016

The oil feed to the head comes up through the front dowel (circled in red)

The oil returns to the sump via the end bolt holes.
The liners also need holding down. I use lengths of copper pipe, some large washers and the head bolts for this. It's best to fit them at diagonals, not like in the picture.

Alibro · Jul 16, 2016

Cool, learn something new every day.

AFS1 · Jul 18, 2016

Hi all, another (possibly inane) question. Assume I'm fitting either a Payen BW5750 or BW750 (according to Federal Mogul web site) then what are the Head Bolt tightening procedure?
I know the head bolt tightening sequence, but with the Payen, is it an incremental tightening each bolt in sequence to 20nm (if so what are the recommended increments) or do I tighten each bolt straight to 20nm then moving to the next bolt (in the correct sequence)? In either case, I then re-tighten each bolt (once again in sequence) through 1 x 90 degrees and doing this 4 times, so in total making one complete revolution of each bolt.

Appreciate views/comments

Alibro · Jul 18, 2016

I don't think the initial 20nm is too critical as far as building up to it is concerned so long as you go round checking again at least once. As for whether you do 4 x 90 or 2 x 180 that is really up to you. I think the official instructions say 2 x 180 but I prefer to do 4 x 90. The only thing I would say is, judge your 90 very carefully. It isn't easy once the bolts get tight so you can end up with some difference in tightness.

BTW they get VERY tight, to the point you fear they will break.

Nodge68 · Jul 18, 2016

I do 4X 90° because I believe it clamps the gasket more progressively. Hopefully increasing its service life.

AFS1 · Jul 19, 2016

Nodge68 said:
I do 4X 90° because I believe it clamps the gasket more progressively. Hopefully increasing its service life.

Thanks. Do you do each bolt straight to 20nm and then 4 x 90 or progressively tighten them individually say to 12nm in sequence, then 14nm, then 16nm, then 18nm to 20nm) and then finally 4 x 90?

Nodge68 · Jul 19, 2016

AFS1 said:
Thanks. Do you do each bolt straight to 20nm and then 4 x 90 or progressively tighten them individually say to 12nm in sequence, then 14nm, then 16nm, then 18nm to 20nm) and then finally 4 x 90?

Going straight to 20Nm is fine as it's such a low figure

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