andy20166

andy20166

New Member
Got a problem with my engine and have had some useful feedback to a previous question.
Tonight I noticed engine doesn't sound right. Starts fine and idle seems pretty steady, when slowly depress accelerator pedal revs increase very slowly but seem to keep dropping (without releasing pedal) until a certain point when they climb quite fast up to about 1800rpm. From 2000rpm seems fine.

Any ideas/help would be appreciated.

Other problems have encountered are EML at 65mph on hills. Suggestions for this are fuel pump and MAF. Had a diagnostics test and this came up with turbo boost solenoid.

Hoping that all may be connected and point to one fault rather then replacing many parts in a process of elimination.

Thanks in anticipation.
 
when slowly depress accelerator pedal revs increase very slowly but seem to keep dropping (without releasing pedal) until a certain point when they climb quite fast up to about 1800rpm.
Click to expand...

as in .. your playing with the go-pedal 'n sat in neutral gear ?
don't think that's anything to worry about

( i.e .. sounds like mine with the synergy turned "off"
( or more so when i first got the vehicle 'n hadn't even done the egr delete mod

btw: the ecu is in charge of engine rpm ..
the go-pedal just sends a voltage signal to the ecu representing driver demand ..

any engine mods done ??
i.e egr delete / tuning box .. etc etc

( the egr valve will allow cooled down exhaust gases into the intake .. engine load / rpm determines 'when'
( been a while since i looked at the info .. but i think it opens at the lower rpm range ..
( egr opens .. exhaust gas to intake manifold .. bound to alter the combustion conditions
( i.e. effect rpm if go-pedal is being held steady .. in neutral gear


has vehicle been serviced .. ?

are the fuel rail sensor plug connections free of dirt / corrosion ?

is the maf sensor known to be in good shape ?

lp fuel pump and fuel filter in good shape ?


Other problems have encountered are EML at 65mph on hills. Suggestions for this are fuel pump and MAF. Had a diagnostics test and this came up with turbo boost solenoid.
Click to expand...

check the condition of the turbo vacuum solenoid vent filter ..
if it looks dirty .. change it ..
check all the vacuum hoses leading to .. and from .. the turbo vacuum solenoid
and / or .. could be that the solenoid itself has failed

see : http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-lack-power-70mph-fixed-77147.html
 
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Thanks,
no engine mods. Have looke at thead - Td4 Lack of power at 70mph - fixed ! and removed the pipe as suggested, didnt stop the EML (flashing on) when driving at 70mph. Filter looked clean (ish)
I may be looking for problems but intend to tow with Freelander and dont think its upto it at moment.
 
I had this a few years back on my old TD4 facelift.
Turned out to be the turbo actuator valve at the back of the engine, about £40 at the time and less than an hour to fit.

Sounds like what your ECU error code is.

Was about £40 3 years back and about an hour to fit...
 
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See part number 1 on the diagram below. Part number STC4198.
 

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and removed the pipe as suggested, didnt stop the EML (flashing on) when driving at 70mph. Filter looked clean (ish)
Click to expand...

the other sensor related to the turbo .. would be the MAP sensor
( manifold absolute pressure )

thing is .. i've no idea what data particulars determine that the ecu loggs a 'turbo-solenoid' error ..
( apart from .. i assume .. electrical feedback from the solenoid
( that sais .. for example .. an electrical wire to the solenoid is broken
 
Forgot to mention, engine very noisy between 1000-1800rpm, rattles like an old diesel and a lot of vibration.

Thanks for the feedback so far.
 
Check crankshaft pulley isn't loose as this could result in broken crankshaft. Might sound a drastic suggestion but TD4's do suffer from crankshaft failure.
 
engine very noisy between 1000-1800rpm, rattles like an old diesel and a lot of vibration
Click to expand...

can you post an audio recording of it ?? .. ( e.g. via youtube )

( thinkin' about what 'nickcc" wrote
( 'n might be able to hear if the crankshaft pulley damper has problems

any 'smoke' symptoms ?

for anyone else reading .. this is the other thread about said td4's symptoms
( mileage @ 88k )
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/what-limp-mode-226595.html
 
My thoughts were centred around the excess noise and vibration especially if the pulley is also the vibration damper (which I think it is). As you suggest hd 3 a recording could be helpful.
 
Will try to get a video/recording of it. Smokes a little on start up, light grey smoke but soon clears.
 
I've had a good tug on the crank pulley and seems solid. Hoping its nothing as serious as crankshaft. Have a feeling (hoping) its just running rough. Tonight idle speed low, about 750rpm and engine skaking ( possibly causing vibration).

Read on here how esso diesel is better performance so off to try some.

Excuse my ignorance but can diesel engines 'pink' like a petrol engine as noise last night similar.
 
It's called diesel knock and used to be common with older type diesels, especially Perkins. Mine also smokes on start up but only when the heater plugs are needed (warning light on dash).
 
but can diesel engines 'pink' like a petrol engine as noise last night similar.
Click to expand...

mine 'pinks' similar to a petrol engine ..

If i use regular diesel fuel and using a light touch on the go pedal for a bit more 'go' ..
( i.e. lite acceleration in lower gears )
knock/pinkin' vanishes if i hit the go-pedal harder in higher gears .. i.e. put the engine under more load ..

If i use premium diesel fuel ( higher cetane ) .. e.g. shell v-power ..
the 'pinking' or 'knock' be somewhat less ..

this explains 'diesel knock' :
The quiet diesel evolution
( in essence the 'knock' is caused by a combustion shockwave .. )
 
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Tonight idle speed low, about 750rpm and engine skaking ( possibly causing vibration)
Click to expand...

that's very close to normal td4 idle ..
( can't offhand remember what exact is .. )

anyhow .. am wondering if the egr valve is sticking on your motor ..

i'd suggest .. clean the egr valve .. or better 'delete it'
disconnect the maf sensor for a 'check' to see if there's a difference
maybe change that *turbo solenoid vent filter
( also check the turbo actuator arm .. i think it should move about 10mm
( need to double check 'how-to' as far as that's concerned

also the crankcase vent filter .. make sure that's ok ..

* i think it's supposed to be changed once a year ..
i changed mine after a year ( did about 20k miles ) ..
out of curiosity i sliced the old one open to see what dirt was inside
it looked very clean ..

i.e. if yours is 'clean-ish' .. maybe time to change it anyway ..

and check/clean the air-intake temp sensor :
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/black-smoke-224520.html
( on some td4's that sensor is part of the maf sensor
( on others .. it's a separate sensor on the top intercooler hose

maybe run some good injector cleaner thru the engine ..
i.e. like 'millers' .. or similar ..
~~~~~~~~~~~

anyhow .. If you've not seen this .. have a read of some of the TD4 links ..
( be one link labeled "td4 engine faults " )
links to freelander1 info
 
Thanks a lot hd3, will try some of the easiar jobs myself and then get my local garage to look at the rest. Will get you posted.
Regards
 
I had exactly the same recently on mine. Started after a long motorway run. Removed and cleaned out seriously clogged inlet manifold, cleaned and blanked egr. Now here's the bit I wouldn't advise. Put in 30lts unleaded by mistake 'plank !' Didn't realise until I got it home only 2 miles but did it cough ant fart !!. Drained tank and system, filled up with diesel this time after about 2 miles ran as good as ever, very little smoke and no lumpy misfire. The moral being I think is that due to all the crap in the inlet manifold 2 ports were almost 50% blocked I don't think it was breathing well enough and had just got carboned up which the clean air and higher burn temp due to the petrol mix had burned it off.
I would clean out the inlet manifold and egr and run some millers through first to see if that helps.
 
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