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Kevin ingram

New Member
HI I'm having issues with a 2004 td5 disco. Was running rough and cutting out. Someone changed the injector seals and washers and then it wouldn't start. I had a look and found 4 cylinders full of diesel and the engine wouldn't turn. I removed the injectors and cranked it over to get rid of the fuel in the bores, put injectors back in and purged the fuel, tried to turn it by hand and it was locked up again and the cylinders were full of fuel again. Has anyone had this before? Cracked head or faulty injectors?
 
Hi, IMO better try to refit the washers and use Genuine LR parts then try again, dont touch the throttle after the purge while you crank it, if it doesnt start purge it again, if it gets hydrolocked only after the purge there's some big problem
 
When you do the injector washer change, RAVE does advise using a syringe to empty any fuel from the cylinders.
What were the symptoms before the washer change?
 
I've had the injectors out 3 times now and emptied the cyls of fuel and re fitted them. It cranks over by hand fine until I do the purge then it fills the cylinders with fuel. The washer seats are clean and it was genuine LR parts used.
Before the seals and washers were done I believe it would run for a few mins then slowly Peter out. Then it would start again after a lot of cranking.so injector washers make sense but it doesn't explain why the fuel is getting into the bores when purging.
 
While the purging is activated there's no compression as the engine is not running but the fuel is circulating there at 4 bar pressure so if it is a leak through the washer fuel can get into the cylinder cos the injector is not completely tight in the head that's why the o-rings and washers are fitted, see the gap between the injector and head down to the washer....those washers are not reusable so if an injector was removed and refitted it might leak, the pic below was edited by me to show how compression can get into the fuel through a leaking washer so if there's no compression it can be valid the other way around too.... put new washers and dont use the throttle at all for purging nor for cranking just turn ignition to 2 and leat it so 3 minutes then crank it to rule out a sticking throttle pot cos if there is some thottle input while purging the ECU might erratically open the injectors and flood it ... if it will hydrolock even so unplug the TP sensor and try then(or you can unplug it from the beginning to rule it out), ... if still no joy it's something above my knowledge
Td5_Cylinder head_washers.jpg
 
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Always wondered how JLR get away with one O ring, theres not much to stop the feed /return flows from mixing, other unit injectors seem to use two rings.
But the issue on this thread is a bit of a mystery!
Could be a seriously failed injector allowing fuel to pour into the cylinder, or a cracked head.
You could go for a bit of trial by elimination.
Are all the cylinders filling up?
If yes then its a real mystery.
If only certain ones are, swap the injector for one that isnt and test again.
Hopefully it is just a bad injector, cracked heads are a right PITA!
Mark
 
Kevin ingram said:
HI I'm having issues with a 2004 td5 disco. Was running rough and cutting out. Someone changed the injector seals and washers and then it wouldn't start. I had a look and found 4 cylinders full of diesel and the engine wouldn't turn. I removed the injectors and cranked it over to get rid of the fuel in the bores, put injectors back in and purged the fuel, tried to turn it by hand and it was locked up again and the cylinders were full of fuel again. Has anyone had this before? Cracked head or faulty injectors?
Click to expand...
remove the injectors and post a pic of the copper washers ..mine was distorted that much squashed you would even know it was a copper washer

I would suggest
when replacing copper washers aneal them first
 
ozzyboydeano said:
remove the injectors and post a pic of the copper washers ..mine was distorted that much squashed you would even know it was a copper washer

I would suggest
when replacing copper washers aneal them first
Click to expand...
Yes. Heat them to a dull cherry red (not any hotter) and let them air cool before use. Do not quench in water or oil.
 
Or better still, get some new ones and new O rings, and clean up the mating faces and try it with everything perfect. Then if fuel is still getting in, it's probably a head fault or (less likely) a faulty injector.
 
Brown said:
Or better still, get some new ones and new O rings, and clean up the mating faces and try it with everything perfect. Then if fuel is still getting in, it's probably a head fault or (less likely) a faulty injector.
Click to expand...
Always worth annealing new copper washers as they can have work hardened edges from the stamping process. Also a good idea on sump plug and banjo washers etc.
 
I'd do the washers again and make sure they are spotlessly clean. Mine leaked on injector 4 after doing the seals the 1st time. The cause was a very small bit of carbon that I had missed which got under the washer and made a load of indents in the copper washer from compressing against the cylinder head.
 
+1 on above. The seating area for the copper seals has to be spotless.
I used fine emery paper wrapped around a wooden dowel to clean the mating face, but that was after my old head was welded so the face on No1 was pretty grotty.
 
Also check the injector clamp as they can come loose after refitting as the washer settles. I always recheck them after a 100 miles or so and have found two to be relatively loose. Having said that I have removed and fitted about 40 or so TD5 injectors over the years so the % is quite small.
 
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