I think you need to download RAVE and read through the vehicle handbooks, system operation and descriptions i nthe Workshop manuals - then you will be uber informed.....

Oh, and the smooth talker is yours truly :D:D:D
 
OK.....can you refresh the brain as I am getting different messaages here..... on some posts you say the key won't go past pos 1.....but you don't get radio displayed etc - at pos 1 you should get this...in other posts you say it won't turn anything on....

in another post you say the display just showed dashes and not the time or the date.....and in one just a moment past, you say you can get to the Aux Heat function on the display....you won't get this unless you can get the key to pos 1.....

So, refresh the brain.....

Can you get the key to position 1 to bring the radio/sat nav/OBC on? or is it not turning at past a few degrees and nothing comes on at all?
 
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Ok so checked my gear lever on way home, don't need brake pressed to move out of park, only N to D.
From what i've read on here FBH was an option on the petrol so you may or may not have it. Of course there are lots of other things as well.
As I say I am a newbie to the L322 also.
 
Ok so checked my gear lever on way home, don't need brake pressed to move out of park, only N to D.
From what i've read on here FBH was an option on the petrol so you may or may not have it. Of course there are lots of other things as well.
As I say I am a newbie to the L322 also.
errrr......from the handbook....

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Can't see a mention of having to press the brake pedal to release gear lever but would assume you know that.

Yes, every time I'm trying things I have my foot on the brake

FBH is common for draining battery I believe,Since disconnecting mine I have had no flat battery issues.

Thanks for bothering to reply and post that pic -- I must find myself another pic file sharing site so I can post pics of what I'm seeing here. How did you disconnect your FBH? Pulling the plugs or a fuse somewheres?
 
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OK.....can you refresh the brain as I am getting different messaages here.....

OK

on some posts you say the key won't go past pos 1

Yes. That's the current scene

.....but you don't get radio displayed

Yes, on manual unlock (driver's door only unlocks) and climbing in the internal cabin lights come on and the headunit's Land Rover screen is shown

etc - at pos 1 you should get this

I still get that but eventually, the headunit's Land Rover screen (where at the bottom I get --/--/2019) switches off and the internal lights go out. That's irrespective of whether the key's at position 1 (is that the same as what's referred to as 10º?) or not

...in other posts you say it won't turn anything on....

The action of moving the key to position 1 does not change anything. I only now move it to position 1 (a) in hope it'll move beyond that, and (b) to try and go into retrain mode for less than 5 seconds before removing the key, press and holding in the unlock button, pressing the lock button three times in sucession and then releasing both.
Unlock LED then flashes 10 times. When I'd retrained before (believing this also permitted IGN) the door locks would lock and then unlock. And all the windows went down. The last time I tried this the windows just went down about 1" and are now stuck like that. I had no door lock operation.

in another post you say the display just showed dashes and not the time or the date

That's as it is now on the bottom of the Land Rover screen before that screen shuts off

.....and in one just a moment past, you say you can get to the Aux Heat function on the display....you won't get this unless you can get the key to pos 1.....

That was when everything was working AOK -- I still don't know whether I've inadvertently enabled FBH by that screen. Before I put all zeroes in the times it was just showing hyphens in the times

Can you get the key to position 1 to bring the radio/sat nav/OBC on?

It's not position 1 that brings the head unit on. Position 1 doesn't change anything. When the Land Rover opening screen is showing, no amount of pressing either of the two buttons will bring the radio on nor the OBC screen. The only thing that will operate is the open front panel button that just exposes the cassette tray. Press the button again and it shuts. Or shuts by itself after some pre-determined time

or is it not turning at past a few degrees and nothing comes on at all?

The key moves into position 1 and won't move any further.
 
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Then if steering lock is clicking but key not turning it is likely the steering lock or ECU or solenoid , can’t remeber which fuse but removing steering lock fuse for a bit and replacing will allow one turn of the key if steering lock is to blame - probably. Could still be steering lock if not clicking though

Sorry, I can't find this "steering lock fuse" you refer to. The only fuse chart I have is for behind glove box.
The chart for there gives F20 30A Drivers seat & steering column; and F23 15A Steering column. There are three fuses listed for Central locking also
 
OK
Yes. That's the current scene
Yes, on manual unlock (driver's door only unlocks) and climbing in the internal cabin lights come on and the headunit's Land Rover screen is shown
I still get that but eventually, the headunit's Land Rover screen (where at the bottom I get --/--/2019) switches off and the internal lights go out. That's irrespective of whether the key's at position 1 (is that the same as what's referred to as 10º?) or not
The action of moving the key to position 1 does not change anything. I only now move it to position 1 (a) in hope it'll move beyond that, and (b) to try and go into retrain mode for less than 5 seconds before removing the key, press and holding in the unlock button, pressing the lock button three times in sucession and then releasing both.
Unlock LED then flashes 10 times. When I'd retrained before (believing this also permitted IGN) the door locks would lock and then unlock. And all the windows went down. The last time I tried this the windows just went down about 1" and are now stuck like that. I had no door lock operation.
That's as it is now on the bottom of the Land Rover screen before that screen shuts off
That was when everything was working AOK -- I still don't know whether I've inadvertently enabled FBH by that screen. Before I put all zeroes in the times it was just showing hyphens in the times
It's not position 1 that brings the head unit on. Position 1 doesn't change anything. When the Land Rover opening screen is showing, no amount of pressing either of the two buttons will bring the radio on nor the OBC screen. The only thing that will operate is the open front panel button that just exposes the cassette tray. Press the button again and it shuts. Or shuts by itself after some pre-determined time
The key moves into position 1 and won't move any further.

OK, one fact has been established - you are NOT turning the key to pos 1......

The fact that the screen comes on when you unlock or open a door is just the Sat Nav unit going through its start up sequence, it will then shutoff after a couple of minutes if it doesn't get a wake signal from the ignition switch at position one or above.

So the small movement you are able to make is indeed the 10deg 'wake the transponder coil' movement and not position 1 as you don't wake the radio up and be able to listen to it!

Now it could be a few things, Transponder in the key is lost/not working (small plastic piece that is loose in the key), Induction coil around ignition switch is duff and is not picking up the key.....

Now I have heard issues with the steering lock ECU and/or the internal lock solenoid failing can prevent the ignition switch and steering lock from disengaging.....you'll need to research this and see if it is a potential issue - loads of it on the web.

So, not being able to get the key to pos 1 means the ignition switch and steering lock are not disengaging.

I have a cut key without electronics and I am sure I can use this key in the switch, turn it to the 10deg position and back, then turn it all the way to wake the car up - obviously it won't start the car as it doesn't have any electronics in the key......but i am sure I can use it to turn the ignition on - I will have to check later......

If it is the case that I can indeed turn the key to get the ignition on (but not start the car) then it proves that even if the EWS doesn't get a signal from the key, you should still be able to turn the ignition on......but I will have to check this later when I go out.
 
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I think it is fuse 18......there are those who have steering lock ECU issues who have made a bypass with a toggle switch for this fuse and they toggle the switch off then on, to reset the ECU and that gives them one turn of the key......again google this as I have read this before.
 
I must find myself another pic file sharing site so I can post pics of what I'm seeing here.

You can upload the pics direct to the forum - "upload a file" - middle button in the reply to post "box" .....

Much better IMHO, as they don't disappear into the ether when botophuckit spit their dummy out again
 
I think it is fuse 18......there are those who have steering lock ECU issues who have made a bypass with a toggle switch for this fuse and they toggle the switch off then on, to reset the ECU and that gives them one turn of the key......again google this as I have read this before.

Yes, Fuse 18 is listed in the handbook as 10A (red) Immoboliser. And there's mentions of it on t'interwebnet

Have just been out and placed the old Varta Blue (now fully charged) in parallel with the new Yuasa installed.
Totally disconnected the Varta was showing 12.87V. Immediately I connected it in parallel with the installed new Yuasa that dropped by ½V. So there's definately some load causing volts drop when measured. Course that's not in "sleep" mode. Bought the Yuasa in as it's only showing 12.2V off load. It's taking charge currently (geddit?!) at 3½A

Cleaned the terminals that were oxidised on the posts and clamps. The -ve should've been tighter IMO
 
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Have you checked and rechecked the battery terminals inside are clean and tight as I’ve had symptoms of total flat battery when the terminal although tight was not make contact.

Yes, just done that this morning. The -ve could've been tighter IMO

If you want to release the gear lever to allow you to move it you can pull up the leather cover around the gear stick and there is a black lever to the right which if you pull up will release the gear lever.

That's progress! That lever allowed me to move the gear lever into Neutral. So at least I can use an ordinary low loader without the need for those plastic shoes to slide the car about. Grateful for that ;)

Your new battery could be faulty I guess, have you measured it’s voltage ?

Yes, and there's definately a load being applied even when key's not in ignition. The volts drop by about ½V when connected
 
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OK, one fact has been established - you are NOT turning the key to pos 1...... The fact that the screen comes on when you unlock or open a door is just the Sat Nav unit going through its start up sequence, it will then shutoff after a couple of minutes if it doesn't get a wake signal from the ignition switch at position one or above. So the small movement you are able to make is indeed the 10deg 'wake the transponder coil' movement and not position 1 as you don't wake the radio up and be able to listen to it!

Right, I now know the difference -- the key's just going to 10º and no further

Now it could be a few things, Transponder in the key is lost/not working (small plastic piece that is loose in the key)

When I opened up the key that didn't work to see what battery it was (CR2016) I didn't see see any small plastic piece in the key that was loose. I'll open it up again to check. -- no nothing. There is a plastic piece that looks as if its mold-fitted into the plastic body. It's got the Siemens number on it

Induction coil around ignition switch is duff and is not picking up the key.....

Quite possibly, although then that'd mean it was just co-incidence that this unable to move beyond the 10º started soon after I changed car battery
 
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I think it is fuse 18......there are those who have steering lock ECU issues who have made a bypass with a toggle switch for this fuse and they toggle the switch off then on, to reset the ECU and that gives them one turn of the key......again google this as I have read this before.

So found Fuse 18, removed it, did dance to the rain gods around RR, noted rustling of the lace in neighbours' windows, replaced fuse -- was still in neutral and... er... still 10º max turn. Which is unfortunate...
 
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