Upper arms may not necessarily need changed, depends on the condition of the bushes.

The part I'm suggesting needs changing is RBK500210 in your first pic,

it's not mentioned nor visible in the second pic, which call the upper or rear arm a 'tie rod'.

Terminologies aside you may wish replace 2 and 7 from pic 2 as they can be purchased with the bush installed.

UJs? What UJs?
 
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myfirstl322 said:
Upper arms may not necessarily need changed, depends on the condition of the bushes.
The part I'm suggesting needs changing is RBK500210 in your first pic,
it's not mentioned nor visible in the second pic, which call the upper or rear arm a 'tie rod'.
Terminologies aside you may wish replace 2 and 7 from pic 2 as they can be purchased with the bush installed.
UJs? What UJs?
Click to expand...

Yes, meant ball joints RBK500210 -- However, events have taken a turn for the worse.

After two pleasant longer journeys had just been pottering around when one morning went out for my usual fill-up with LPG and on the A102 turn-off to Charlton had to wait in queue to get to LPG station. Could see temp gauge very slowly climb to ¾ then with the application of a few revs back to ½ again. Did this a few times before it wouldn't go back to ½ anymore. And slowly climbed into the red zone then came back to ¾ by which time I was at the LPG pump. Coz of the crawl thru the three sets of traffic lights couldn't get out to raise bonnet and see where coolant was
coming from.

Got to pump, joined queue of grumpy LPG taxi and van drivers -- slight wisps of steam coming from under the bonnet as well, switched off. Started up 10 mins later all normal -- filled with LPG, paid, left filling station, temp gauge at ¾ -- got thru Blackheath village following some old fart who wouldn't go more than 20mph (y'know those signs put up by commie teachers "Kill Your Speed Not a Child!" scrawled in a so-called child's handwriting) Got home and went and had another pill.

Hour later removed coolant cap, filled with water and as fast as I could pour into the resovoir, as fast as it was pouring out off-side to the rear of engine. Me being the size I am nowadays couldn't see exactly where it was pouring out from, if I'd got underneath wouldn't have been able to get up again.

Called mechanic that'd done the change out of electric thermostat, resovoir cap (24psi), and ECT sensor who said he'd look at it when he'd got the time in his queue. This time, Green Flag didn't question the fault I reported and got a driver out to me in an hour -- excellent service :rolleyes: Transporter driver said water seemed to be coming out from the rear of the engine at about the "V" level. And took me and Strange Rover across county to Tonbridge. That was Thursday a week ago, not heard anything back from mechanic as yet

I'm back on the ward now. They've got cartoons on CBeebies :p.
But wearing this jacket I can't change the channel :mad:
 
Not been in the guts of the 4.4 but there is a weep hole around where you say, which really is a 'tell-tale' to let you know you have a problem.

Beneath the intake manifold is a tube (approx 1 3/4") which runs from the back of the water pump to the rear water distribution manifold that feeds the heads, I believe these can fail either at the o-rings or sometimes the pipe itself if coolant has never been changed, or changed infrequently.

Below that again is the valley pan, this is a wedge or boat shaped 'pan' which is sealed to the block with numerous bolts and an RTV silicone goop/gasket.



I think those are the two possibles that would allow water out of that weep hole.
 
myfirstl322 said:
Not been in the guts of the 4.4 but there is a weep hole around where you say, which really is a 'tell-tale' to let you know you have a problem.

Beneath the intake manifold is a tube (approx 1 3/4") which runs from the back of the water pump to the rear water distribution manifold that feeds the heads, I believe these can fail either at the o-rings or sometimes the pipe itself if coolant has never been changed, or changed infrequently.

Below that again is the valley pan, this is a wedge or boat shaped 'pan' which is sealed to the block with numerous bolts and an RTV silicone goop/gasket.



I think those are the two possibles that would allow water out of that weep hole.
Click to expand...

Is this the Jag engine? @Henry_b mentioned something about a pipe near the V failing on them.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Is this the Jag engine? @Henry_b mentioned something about a pipe near the V failing on them.
Click to expand...

The 2006MY on so on were Jag powered L322's "cough" the one you want "cough" "cough" ;)

The valley pipe is a common weep point and it fails in a spectacular fashion, it doesn't trickle it just goes "pop" and you lose all the coolant. ;) It sits under the manifold and is a 45min job so long as it isn't the S/C version, in which case it's a 4-6 hr job ;)

The M62 has a variety of **** plastic/rubber sub par pipes stroon about the engine, there is one on the back of the engine which is a common failure point, aswell as the connections for the hoses on the rad, the O rings commonly fail and weep coolant.

Etc etc i could go on for days but you get the idea ;)
 
Thanks guyz for the updates, I'll pass them on.
I'll have to get used to driving around in a SL320 once I get out of the ward
And find out next week what progress

It's the BMW M62 engine in an '03MY L322
 
Henry_b said:
the S/C version, in which case it's a 4-6 hr job ;)
Click to expand...

The "S/C" version? What is this please?

Henry_b said:
connections for the hoses on the rad, the O rings commonly fail and weep coolant.
Click to expand...

I could see those alright the top and bottom rad connections were dry and without chalk tell-tale. There was a slight moisture at the connect at the bottom of the resovoir, but no evidence that it'd been leeching signifigantly
 
RichardSEL said:
The "S/C" version? What is this please?



I could see those alright the top and bottom rad connections were dry and without chalk tell-tale. There was a slight moisture at the connect at the bottom of the resovoir, but no evidence that it'd been leeching signifigantly
Click to expand...

As said by Myfirst above my main point was the Jag powered L322.

Yours being the M62 powered model then just check around the various coolant pipes and connections, some leaks are only apparent when the engine is running.

The S/C is Supercharged which is a Jag Powered adornment ;)
 
Mech has found that this hose defunct. Apparently is a common fault according to:
https://www.rswsolutions.com/index....20-range-rover-mkiii-rear-engine-coolant-leak

Would want to replace with something that's armoured or at least stronger than OEM if that's what happens to them
Anyone know of a source? Often there's better parts made available by independant factor stores. I assume it's a special and not hose that can be cut from a roll? Haven't seen it out.

coolant-engine-hose-small.jpg


coolant-engine-hose-broken-small.jpg


Location rear of bell housing. Says it'd take 3 - 4 hours (gulp)
 
RichardSEL said:
Mech has found that this hose defunct. Apparently is a common fault according to:
https://www.rswsolutions.com/index....20-range-rover-mkiii-rear-engine-coolant-leak

Would want to replace with something that's armoured or at least stronger than OEM if that's what happens to them
Anyone know of a source? Often there's better parts made available by independant factor stores. I assume it's a special and not hose that can be cut from a roll? Haven't seen it out.

coolant-engine-hose-small.jpg


coolant-engine-hose-broken-small.jpg


Location rear of bell housing. Says it'd take 3 - 4 hours (gulp)
Click to expand...
5 ply Silicone coolant hose.
 
Good idea:rolleyes: As soon as I know the diameter will try and locate.
I assume its connected to a solid fitting that can go back after removal of the chalks?
 
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RJHC000081 J184B Adaptor - Heater £10.31 inc VAT inc delivery tomorrow

Believe this is an uprated part that includes connector too

Always assuming you havn't lost the will to live by this stage of the thread,
hope this helps someone that may suffer the same.
Spares recognised photo immediately, had part # in his head, then told me: "they go for a pastime"
 
Internal diameter of the hose part is 2½cm on a new one

Police came to see me on the ward asking whether I knew where Clarice was as she hadn't reported for duty in a week. I said: "HOW WOULD I KNOW?" They said: "Well you were the last person she was seen with". I said: "I've not seen her since she told me I shouldn't have bought that Range Rover L322 heap of old crap..."
 
The mechanic has changed out the component that's down by the top of the bell housing.
Flushed out again and filled with anti-freeze 50% mix again -- charged me 3½ hours. Hmmmm

He drove it from Tonbridge back to his place, then I picked it up and took it the 12 miles back to
mine. Temperature needle swung once from ½ FSD to ¾ then immediately fell back to ½ again.
The level float in the resovoir has stayed in the same position as I picked it up.
Went down to Crayford and return yesterday. As I was parking up after the first 12 miles, temp gauge
rose from ½ to beyond ¾ but did not enter the red zone and again immediately fell back to ½.
Two hours later checked coolant level, still the same OK
Drove home, temp gauge rose to ¾ once as I was parking up and immediately fell back to ½ again

Checked with my iCarSoft diagnostics this morning and found these (presumably stored from previous
fault conditions)
P0012 Camshaft control bank 1 fault
P0000 Purge valve output drive fault
P0000 Engine cooling fan control fault
P0000 Fuel pump output drive fault

Cleared all faults then went out for the drive
Only the first has returned although I did see the temperature needle start to climb (but not as far as ¾) as I parked up. But it then immediately went back to its normal ½ FSD again.

I don't know what the "purge valve" is -- anyone?

Believe fuel pump output drive fault has something to do with the LPG system fitted that can, if only part warm switch off the LPG supply ready for cold petrol start-up but not yet allowing petrol through. So there's a start then die. Start again and all's fine...

Oh, and I'm fine now, thanks for asking. I don't need this mask anymore, I really don't...
Hannibal-Lecter-in-Silence-of-the-Lambs.jpg
 
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New ECT sensor fitted. So I'll check the three connections (ECT, electric thermostat, and supply to viscous-coupled fan) that I can reach, clean pins, give them a sqirt with non-oil-based contact cleaner. And report back
 
There is no supply to the viscous fan, it is a mechanical system activated by a temperature sensitive viscous fluid. Check supply the the auxiliary fans, but these should only run if the temps raise too high or if the condenser temp is high.
 
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