My rules for using a garage are as follows

1) Is it winter?
2) Is it fiddly or hard work?
3) Am I at all poorly?
4) Any tool issues?

If 3 or more ticked garage time.

Had all 4 just before MOT

Ok, so scoring zero on that test confirms it! Just ordered bushes and Linkages so will see how it all goes.

The front shock bushes/shocks do need doing but looking online at some tutorials and then under the bonnet i may decide to tackle that later as my mechanical know how (or lack of) might not stretch that far just yet!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8ha
Ok, so scoring zero on that test confirms it! Just ordered bushes and Linkages so will see how it all goes.

The front shock bushes/shocks do need doing but looking online at some tutorials and then under the bonnet i may decide to tackle that later as my mechanical know how (or lack of) might not stretch that far just yet!
start with what you can obviously see is worn ie front shockers
 
Don't bother changing the bushes on the shocks, just change the shocks. The difference in cost is not worth the time and hassle to replace the bush. Also id say replace all shocks bushes at the same time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8ha
My rules for using a garage are as follows

1) Is it winter?
2) Is it fiddly or hard work?
3) Am I at all poorly?
4) Any tool issues?

If 3 or more ticked garage time.

Had all 4 just before MOT
I'd add to that list "Do I have to lie under the thing?" Getting down is fairly OK, getting up again has become a bit of a trial. :(
 
Don't bother changing the bushes on the shocks, just change the shocks. The difference in cost is not worth the time and hassle to replace the bush. Also id say replace all shocks bushes at the same time.
Thanks. And yes, my plan is to replace shocks (just std at the moment as while I'd like to put something more fancy on there I have no idea what!) and also arb bushes and linkages.
A job for Saturday (and beyond probably!)

Now to find out why my drivers footwell is wet...!
 
Thanks. And yes, my plan is to replace shocks (just std at the moment as while I'd like to put something more fancy on there I have no idea what!) and also arb bushes and linkages.
A job for Saturday (and beyond probably!)

Now to find out why my drivers footwell is wet...!
I'd be looking at sorting the water ingress issue as a matter of urgency, before it starts damaging the IDM and the main fuse board.
 

Attachments

  • Discovery Water Ingress Manual.pdf
    923.8 KB · Views: 158
  • water_ingress_at_rear_of_vehicle.pdf
    173.1 KB · Views: 165
  • water_ingress_to_headliner.pdf
    172.3 KB · Views: 164
I'd be looking at sorting the water ingress issue as a matter of urgency, before it starts damaging the IDM and the main fuse board.
That's great, thank you. Investigating has already started but non conclusive at the moment. Am hoping it's sunroof pipes...
 
Thanks. And yes, my plan is to replace shocks (just std at the moment as while I'd like to put something more fancy on there I have no idea what!) and also arb bushes and linkages.
A job for Saturday (and beyond probably!)

Now to find out why my drivers footwell is wet...!

Run your hand behind the rear view mirror between the top of the windscreen glass and the headlining. If its wet your sunroof is leaking. If the footwell carpet is wet all the way up the bulkhead wall and around the tunnel, your heater matrix / hoses may be leaking. Give the 'Wet' a sniff, if it smells of coolant theres your answer. If you still aren't sure you COULD (but i wouldn't recommend as its toxic in large doses) dabbing your finger in the wet and giving it a lick. Coolant has a bittering agent in it to make sure people don't drink it aha
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8ha
Run your hand behind the rear view mirror between the top of the windscreen glass and the headlining. If its wet your sunroof is leaking. If the footwell carpet is wet all the way up the bulkhead wall and around the tunnel, your heater matrix / hoses may be leaking. Give the 'Wet' a sniff, if it smells of coolant theres your answer. If you still aren't sure you COULD (but i wouldn't recommend as its toxic in large doses) dabbing your finger in the wet and giving it a lick. Coolant has a bittering agent in it to make sure people don't drink it aha
thanks, that's really helpful. I'm one step below novice at the moment when it comes to Discovery's so any and all advice is massively appreciated.

I've only had the car 3 weeks and there have been a few "issues" - I noticed the carpet was wet along the far outer edge (nr door) and then long the transmission tunnel - took the carpet up and the foam soundproofer is soaked. No obvious rust holes which was my first horror thought!
Have removed the pannel covering the wiring through to the door (sorry if thats not exactly right) and that all seems dry. The carpet isnt wet around the tunnel - jsut on the floor but cant see where exactly the water is coming from at the moment.

Will spend some time checking in more detail this eve and reading the the docs posted by @brian47 (thanks for those).

I guess I should probably move this to a new thread as I've gone a bit off topic now from the steering "knock" but thanks everyone that's replied and helped so far
 
So, quick update.

Fitted new ARB bushes and HD linkages today..... et voila, the knocking is gone! Thank you to everyone that commented/helped.

Still need to replace the track rod end as there’s lots of play in that and front shocks (should I replace with stock shocks or uprated?), oh and sort the “water in drivers footwell” issue but at least the knocking is sorted and I managed to do it myself!!
 
So, quick update.

Fitted new ARB bushes and HD linkages today..... et voila, the knocking is gone! Thank you to everyone that commented/helped.

Still need to replace the track rod end as there’s lots of play in that and front shocks (should I replace with stock shocks or uprated?), oh and sort the “water in drivers footwell” issue but at least the knocking is sorted and I managed to do it myself!!

The term 'uprated' is so broad it's essentially unanswerable unless you describe what the car will be used for. This is the rule of thumb I use for suspension modifications:
1. General use as a utility vehicle, some greenlanes, towing infrequently, packing up with partner/kids/dogs/friends etc for camping I would say use stock genuine shocks.
2. If the car is going to be fitted with a winch and do allot of towing I would look to find some springs with higher spring rates for the weight and dampers that match. This doesn't mean increase in size BTW
3. Stock ride height will cover 95% of Greenlanes and off road tracks in the UK. If you are comitted to changing the ride, handling and cornering characteristics of your car because you have found that one road that requires some lift, go for the +2 inch suspension lift. Previous comment regarding towing, weight etc will determine spring rates.
4. If you want a rock crawler / look at me truck go for mad 4+ inch lift, body lift and truck tyres and accept the fact it will not go round corners.
Hope this helps.
 
The term 'uprated' is so broad it's essentially unanswerable unless you describe what the car will be used for. This is the rule of thumb I use for suspension modifications:
1. General use as a utility vehicle, some greenlanes, towing infrequently, packing up with partner/kids/dogs/friends etc for camping I would say use stock genuine shocks.
2. If the car is going to be fitted with a winch and do allot of towing I would look to find some springs with higher spring rates for the weight and dampers that match. This doesn't mean increase in size BTW
3. Stock ride height will cover 95% of Greenlanes and off road tracks in the UK. If you are comitted to changing the ride, handling and cornering characteristics of your car because you have found that one road that requires some lift, go for the +2 inch suspension lift. Previous comment regarding towing, weight etc will determine spring rates.
4. If you want a rock crawler / look at me truck go for mad 4+ inch lift, body lift and truck tyres and accept the fact it will not go round corners.
Hope this helps.
Thanks @Adventure_Coachworks
Car is pretty much doing light duties and ought greenlaning so think I'll still with the std ones for now. Considering spring replacement on the front too as it dives a fair but under braking and I don't think they've ever been changed!!
 
From my experience, the MoT advisory on shock absorber bushes should be read as code for 'your shocks are completely nadged'. Shocks apparently can't be tested during the MoT, so they may just be sitting there doing absolutely nothing, leaving all the bouncy work to the springs. They are so easy to change my advice would be to put that job on the list too. It really is all part of the fun :)
 
From my experience, the MoT advisory on shock absorber bushes should be read as code for 'your shocks are completely nadged'. Shocks apparently can't be tested during the MoT, so they may just be sitting there doing absolutely nothing, leaving all the bouncy work to the springs. They are so easy to change my advice would be to put that job on the list too. It really is all part of the fun :)

Yes, I'm learning all about this "fun" you speak of!

Added to the list though, new shocks ordered so that's next weekends job...
 

Similar threads