[Keith_L]

I took the D2 out this morning for a 15 mile run, parked up and did my thing, and then drove back 15 miles about 2-3 hours later. Both times it started straight away as it always does. However, when I tried to start it this afternoon it wouldn't. The amber differential lock warning light lit briefly as it always does when you start up, but the engine didn't attempt to crank.

I connected my new Foxwell and checked for codes and got the following - see attached picture:

DTC - GlowPlug Relay Drive Open Load
DTC - Engine Speed outside bounds for cruise (where fitted)

It didn't give code numbers unfortunately. I cleared the codes and tried again and the same codes reappeared. I also tried the spare key just for fun but that made no difference.

I have no idea what I need to do to sort this and of course I can't drive it to someone who might. Any suggestions from anyone would be greatly appreciated. It's a 2002 Td5 automatic.

 

[codfather79]

Just a thought, how good is the battery?

 

[Keith_L]

Thanks @codfather79. That did cross my mind but it's only 4 years old and is kept on a CTEK charger when not in use. I have a battery monitor/USB charger plugged into the cigarette lighter and that was showing 12.6V+ throughout the messing around, although I appreciate the capacity may have dropped over time. The thing is this morning it started both times straight away whereas this afternoon it made no attempt to turn the starter which is what made me think it had to be something else.

 

[sierrafery]

Unfortunately you can't rely on those fault codes cos Foxwell is not reliable with the Td5 engine management codes that's a verified fact,

first of all this

this afternoon it made no attempt to turn the starter ...

has nothing to do with the engine management or fault codes and if you unlocked with the fob it's not immobilised either so first of all check the battery clamps to be tight, then the spade connector on the starter solenoid as it used to get loose, if that's OK swap the starter relay and check the fuse, if no joy remove the relay and bridge the perpendicular cavities in the fusebox with a wire to see if it cranks that way... if still no effect we'll speak then but the gist is that the problem is on the starting circuit somewhere, bad contact at the fusebox plug is quite common as well

 

[Shedload]

Agree with Sierra, those DTC's don't really mean anything.
Have a good look around starter, just beware of live wires !
Can't recall the part name but I had the ignition barrel fail on mine which resulted in non start, but this was a gradual fail.
Just thought, the starter solenoid is a fairly easy swap, though getting the starter out can be a fiddle.

 

[Keith_L]

I have checked the fuse with a meter and that was okay. The relay seemed to be clicking okay but I swapped it with that for the fuel filler flap release and the flap still released and the starter relay still clicked. The +ve battery terminal is tight but I can just turn the -ve slightly if I try hard enough but I can't seem to tighten the clamp any more. It's the sort where you tighten down onto a conical clamp. The wire was still firmly on the spade connector on the side of the starter solenoid. I pulled it off and there didn't seem to be any corrosion on either half, but the half connected to the solenoid seemed to move around a bit. Not sure if that is normal or not.

All that is left is to try is the bridging you suggest but I'm not sure exactly where am I putting the bridging wire?

 

[sierrafery]

All that is left is to try is the bridging you suggest but I'm not sure exactly where am I putting the bridging wire?

Across the middle perpendicular cavities: 30 - 87... if it doesnt crank that way and no click from the starter solenoid measure for live on the spade , if it has +12V the starter is fubar, if no power the problem is at the fusebox or the wire to the solenoid