[jimseng]

Hello all.
This is my first Land Rover so please assume total ignorance. I parked up briefly and when I got back in the parking brake wouldn't come off. At the same time I noticed the fuel read zero, even though the tank was full. I think they are related. I had to pull the wire under the cup holder to get home. I then did a 1 1/2 hour motor way drive and often the engine would cut out but restart once stopped. It behaved for a good chunk of the journey and I think the fuel gauge was reading 60 miles to empty at the time and the low fuel warning went out.
So I need to get this sorted. I am in the Taunton area. I guess the first thing is to read the codes so I guess I am going to have to invest in a code reader so what should I buy?
Any ideas as to what I can look at to see if I can get it moving? I feel it is a communication issue. I can really only drive it a few miles because the engine misses and shuts off all the time.
Any recommendations for an reliable indy in the area? I'm not in a massive hurry as I have other vehicles but I need to fix it.
If I am going to keep a Land Rover I am going to have to learn a bit, I just wasn't expecting it to fail like this so soon. How naive of me!

 

[landowner]

Mornin and welcome
Is it a series two ?

 

[jimseng]

2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE? I'm not sure if that is enough info.

 

[jimseng]

So I have been told that now I have pulled the handbrake emergency release wire I have to have the whole module replaced. This seems rather dramatic. Is this the case?

 

[lynall]

So I have been told that now I have pulled the handbrake emergency release wire I have to have the whole module replaced. This seems rather dramatic. Is this the case?

I think you can relatch it with diagnostic kit?

 

[marjon]

So I have been told that now I have pulled the handbrake emergency release wire I have to have the whole module replaced. This seems rather dramatic. Is this the case?

Its not the case for the L322 so I dont see why its the case, unless it is US.
The thing is why did it jamb? at the very least ensure the handbrake shoes are adjusted correctly before reusing it.
The L322 also relatches itself when you operate it again if all is well, If i remember.

J

 

[marjon]

Maybe I should add.
If it would not release due to some electrical issue, then the chances are it will be absolutly fine once fixed.
If it would not release because the threaded rod is jammed, because of bad adjustment. It "maybe" fixable but it can sometimes lead to stripped gears (plastic i think they are ). The module would have to be removed to sort but think new gears are available now.

So for a code reader. how deep are your pockets and is it a keeper?

We have the GAP IID expensive but very good.
Now @gstuart has been using an Autel(or something) on his D3, which is a lot cheaper but I dont know its capabilities. He will be along soon to let us know.

J

 

[jimseng]

Thanks Marjon>
I'm not convinced it did jam. I think it is a communication issue and I think the fact that the fuel gauge reads zero is part of the same problem. I'm happy too buy a GAP IID because I think it is worth it. I have just held off because I am not sure exactly what to buy. I believe the garage I spoke to is being cautious and will only fit genuine LR parts, but this is going to cost about a third of what we paid for the thing and it seems ridiculous.

 

[marjon]

I can understand the garage giving you a worse case. But could they read the codes for you?
It is very possible its a coms issue, all JLR products suffer from corroded connections.
As you have 2 issues towards the rear of the car is there a common area with connectors in? or is it just coincedence that a tank connector and an EPB module connector gave up at the same time?

Are you getting any warnings on the dash/handbrake switch? it should show something i think.

How handy are you yourself?

I dont know the D4 so cant really help much.

J

 

[biketeacherdave]

It's a D4 you can re latch them but you need to remove the epb module to do it. You can also repair them.
The fuel gauge could be a number of things the sender units do fail. If it reads empty it usually goes into safe mode and stops the engine from firing to protect the hpfp.

Just because both things happened at same time don't assume it's connected.

Did you get any noises from the epb leading upto failure ??

 

[jimseng]

I could hear the EPB operating so yes, it made a noise going on and off but I had to listen out for it. I am fairly sure I have a receipt for it being changed in the last couple of years.

 

[jimseng]

So here is an update to all of this.
I found this fuse to be blown. (Yes, I know. I didn't do that bodge, let's stay on topic and for now assume it was for a benign reason)

Having replaced the fuse I have my fuel gauge back and the vehicle is driveable again. I bought a Gap tool and the relevant fault code was( unsurprisingly) "Lost communication with parking brake module". I cleared it and now the EPB makes a high pitched wine when operating and goes into fault and doesn't come on. I guess this is because I pulled the emergency EPB release hoop. It certainly wasn't making that noise before all this happened.
So now what do I do? As I mentioned the local garage says the EPB has to be replaced, and only with a genuine Land Rover one plus every single part thereafter. Others on this thread say I can re latch it. I have also read that it can be re latched without removing it? Is any of this true? If so what is involved in re latching it? If I have to remove it is there a guide somewhere? Do I need to buy a couple of ramps to get the back end up high enough? Do I need to remove the rear exhaust or can it be removed some other way? I used to do mechanics on my old VWs when I was a youngster but I thought my days of lying on my back in the dirt were behind me, until I got a Land Rover, now I'm not so sure. So many questions, but I'm hoping this is the place to ask.
If anyone knows a mechanic in the Somerset/Taunton area who might be able to do it I would be interested to know. Although I am willing to give it a go myself so long as I have enough information and prep.

 

[marjon]

Ok looks like the bodge was possibly done cos they didnt have the corret fuse, So just remove that and replace with the correct style (bodge gone) check the manual/fusebox lid as to correct rating for fuse.

So as I said the first thing to do is check and adjust the shoes and cables, before you try and use it again.

I am still sure it should relatch itself if all is well, but I cant be 100%. Think its done just by cycling it if you have GAP now it may even have a relatch procedure it could run.

If you have the screeching noise its probably running to its full travel and will jam if you continue. Or it has already chewed the gears.

I think the EPB module is a right pig to get to.

J

 

[biketeacherdave]

The noise from the epb just meant it needed adjusting/cleaning .
You can view this and how to rematch and if needed rebuild it you look at LRTIME on the tube they have proberly the best how to guide on there.
A new genuin epb module last time I looked was about £650ish plus all the other parts at the wheels.

 

[jimseng]

Well it isn't re latching on its own when I pull or press the lever. The noise sounds too consistent to be stripped gears. Maybe that is wishful thinking. The unjam procedure with the Gap tool hasn't worked. (Silence, nothing happens when I run the procedure, which reports back succesful). What mechanism allows the emergency pull cable to disconnect everything? I would have thought something needs to be re attached somehow, but that is just a guess.