I wouldn't worry too much about the leak, let it develop and enjoy the car
If it gets worse then you'll be able to see where it's coming from, it's not going to do any damage
Head gasket usually leaks from further along near 1 and 2, if it's gasket then just use it till it's fooked and then swap it.
 
It is a HIF44 SU carb.
I am willing to believe it's the HG, but I cannot track the oil down from there so far.
If it was a cracked head etc I would expect other symptoms too. No blue smoke or steam either, but the radiator was a bit low when I checked it yesterday so I suppose it is possible. Hotter plugs @Stanleysteamer I had thought of that its got BPE6's in ATM and I have a new set of BPE5's I can try.
You could also try weakening the mixture a tad.
Did you pull the plugs after a decent hot run? I seem to remember before, you were happy with the colour of them.
You could always do a compression test, if that cylinder is down on pressure then things need investigating unless you CBA and just want to enjoy it for a bit!

For oil to be coming out of the plug hole there has to be a leak at that point AND there has to be availability of oil to it inside the head.
Does the plug come out or go back in any "different" to the feel of the others? Has it been crossthreaded at any time as far as you can see?
Loadsa threads available on how to fix it if it is bad, i.e. beyond just chasing it back down.
 
OK it is time to "fess-up". It was the rocker gasket after all. :)
The LH screw-down T-Bolt was not as tight as the RH side one.
One extra quarter turn (to match the resistance felt on the RH side one) and the leak stopped.
So well done all you gasket's-borked callers (Henry, Dippypud etc.)
 
Last edited:
OK it is time to "fess-up". It was the rocker gasket after all. :)
The LH screw-down T-Bolt was not as tight as the RH side one.
One extra quarter turn (to match the resistance felt on the RH side one) and the leak stopped.
So well done all you gasket's-borked callers (Henry, Dippypud etc.)
Glad you sorted it!
 
OK, so here are the very sooty BP6ES plugs. All equally awful, no special standout cases.
1749983926647.png

I shall pop some BP5ES's in (hotter plugs I think). I hope they don't do any damage, and it might burn off the carbon. :)
 
OK, so here are the very sooty BP6ES plugs. All equally awful, no special standout cases.
View attachment 343227
I shall pop some BP5ES's in (hotter plugs I think). I hope they don't do any damage, and it might burn off the carbon. :)
If it's not smoking and burning oil then that's a bit rich, post a pic of your needle next chance you get please :)
 
Most common carb needle in the day for a 1275 was a DZ, used by Austin, Riley, Morris etc for their standard 1275 motors with single inch and a half (38) carb BTW.
 
I think we are beginning to say the same thing now.
Weaken the mixture a bit, and or change the plugs. If the engine really is a standard as it seem to be, now, I'd go with weaken ing the mix a tad to begin with.

OK, this is for bikes, but a good explanation of how to do plug cuts or "chops" as some say. (you have to read more or less all of it. but it isn't long. )
I think you only need to do the WOT one as it is on a SU. i.e. hard foot down through the gears then in top hold it open as long as you can before standing on the clutch and cutting the engine. you do obvs need to plan where you are going to coast to a stop.

A dual carriageway with a layby is what I use.
 
Don't know if this would be any use as I think you are probably on the right needle now. And I apologise for having told you the needle for an MG Metro, altho TBH none of us knew it wasn't an MG engine.


Active comparative site.

Helps you "try out" various needles
 

Similar threads