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With regards to the VCU giving no resistance, probably broken CV and... When a 1 wheel up test is done, it tries to turn a rear wheel. The rear wheel is directly connected to the IRD via the rear diff and props. Once into the IRD it is connected/geared to the shaft between gearbox and diff...

The pic you posted is the IRD. This pic shows the IRD on the hidden left face of that pic which is where it bolts to the gearbox... You can see at the bottom left are 2 splined shafts - 1 that goes inside the other. The bigger shaft takes drive from the gearbox into the IRD. On that shaft...

If you remove the prop and have no drive then either the splines to the LH wheel have stripped of the diff has managed to break catastrophically - which would usually mean a shattered IRD case. However, if the VCU spins with no resistance - it would not give drive to the rear wheels. So...

Personally, I'd prefer a dongle and app. You may have more of a setup, you have to pair the 2 with bluetooth, but you get a bigger display and don't have just a couple of buttons that you have to work out what they do at different times and were programmed by a mad Chinaman so make no sense...

If its a generic code, I suppose it could mean lots of things, but this is a specific case with a successful outcome (stopped the code being thrown)... https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/help-what-did-i-do.300807/page-4#post-3757856

Hi, you haven't put the link/pic in - but any plug in dongle that is described as ELM327 should work - bare in mind they are usually cheap Chinese tat - so possibly they won't! I mention the Torque app - I know this has a really cute/fancy dashboard like display - showing speed/rpm/temps etc -...

Sounds dodgy. Are you sure the original driveshaft was a genuine LR one? Has the car had a lift?

You can't cock anything up by plugging in an ODBII reader and looking at the information it displays to you. It might just give you a better understanding of how your car works, or is failing. Which is, after all, why people come on here. A £5 quid dongle off Ali, or £15 from a shop in UK...

Erm, you could always take the lift out so that the CVs run at the angles they are supposed to. On the back, I suppose you could lower the diff by 60mm.... and hope the UJs on the prop shaft don't give up or the diff gets collected by a rock. I'd have thought the fronts are the ones that go...

So you don't want to get pulled by plod for not having a MOT, but for 6 months you've been willing to kill that kid who stepped out onto a zebra crossing on a rainy day? Put yourself at lesser risk than that kid, just drive it.

Why would you need to trailer the car? The Amigos should not stop the car being driven.

Yeh, the Amigos are not unique to Freelander, but its not common to many cars, so yeh, is suitable to that thread. :cool: The point I was making is that the HDC switch I do not think can throw the Amigos - it is broken, it just can't be activated, or will be activated all the time if its...

If the Amigos are on, the ABS ECU is detecting something and there must be a code (presumably). Unless there's a problem with the instrument panel. On my '99, the Amigo LEDs are directly connected to wires from the ABS ECU, but on your 2000+ model it may be comms that the instrument panel...

HDC switch is the 1st gear switch? I think not - they are separate switches. Don't think the HDC switch can throw the Amigos, at least it can't on my '99... pretty sure its a simple on/off switch. Granted they fail, the wire falls off and you can't enable it. Think its the same with the 1st...

Nice result. Must have been very satisfying when it went 'click' and the door opened :D Didn't notice that hole, it must have been facing your access, so much easier to get at than coming at it from below.

I think the iCarSoft readers have problems with the 2001 cars. The early F1s used Wabco ABS then Teves Mk20 was used for a short period between 2000 and 2002 before shifting to Teves Mk25. Its these Mk20 cars (like yours) it has problems with I think. I'd pop in to a indie LR garage and see...

Nice video. So, it look like you have to rotate the piece he has between his fingers in this pic (anti clockwise in this pic)... You might be able to do it by poking something up from where the rod to the solenoid goes (maybe remove the solenoid for access). It looks like that solenoid...

Blinkin Ek, BB didn't even have time to shift the thread to AG and the OP gone and done it herself - all-be-it within the confines for the Freelander forum. Must be a wimmins, and her name must be Karen.

Ok, so the 'jaws' of the latch (that hold the bar on the body) are not connected to that rod that the actuator pulls. The jaws rotates by itself, It is pushed around by meeting the bar as the door is closed. When the jaws are pushed around far enough (ie when the bar can be held by it), a...

Might be a fuel/air mixture issue. Try disconnecting the MAF and see what happens.